HemiChallenger

I picked up a 2003 6.0 motor out of a truck with the crank and engine covers and 317 casting heads with little else. I'm looking for info on pointing me in a direction with what to do with this motor. I was planning on a single 88mm turbo with reversed truck manifolds and a blow through carbed set-up on e-85.

My main questions regard:

engine bolts: spend the $500 on arp studs or get oem style fasteners? and will the oem ones be safe to 800-1000hp? If it would even make that much power, which doesnt make any difference to me.

heads: port the 317's or buy something boost ready/friendly?

Camshaft: solid or hydraulic? spend the money on solid lifters and a shaft mount set-up or go with factory rockers and lifters? This will be street driven mostly and lashing valves doesnt bother me.

rods and pistons: No idea what to buy or consider open to all recommendations here.

Flywheel: use the oem one or?

Thanks for any help it is greatly appreciated. I have a s-10 i was considering putting this into.

HemiChallenger

No one?

donnyshane69

iTrader: (8)

ARP studs are a must. Stock won't hold up.
Stock 6 liter heads are 70cc and are perfect for boosted app. Bigger valves and porting will help but you are forcing flow regardless.
Eagle, compstar, Lunatti, Crank and rods
Manley, JE, Weisco, pistons
Flywheel the lighter the better but stock will work.

barnat

iTrader: (59)

Your pretty close to my build for my APS ! I bought a brand new 6.0 iron block ,stock crank. ARP main & head studs.LS6 intake,oil pump and lightly ported LS6 heads with dual springs, stainless valves, and a nice CROWER TURBO CAM Duration @ .050
Intake 217 Exhust 226 (lift is) Intake .553 Exhaust.575
Lobe seperation is at 114

Also,I went with Compstar LS1 rods and Weisco turbo pistons and am at 9.5 to 1 CR and am good to 1000HP from what my builder and other on here say, but will more then likely only push to 750 or 800 HP MAX for longjevity LOL Spelling sucks I KNOW LOL
Part# on this cam is CROWER 00572
good luck

ItsNotStock

iTrader: (24)

ARP's are a must as others have said. You will be seeing alot of cylinder pressure so at least ARP Head bolts, but studs would be better. There is also going to be alot of stress on the crank so main cap studs are recommended. ARP connecting rod bolts always come with aftermarket rods.

They are very boost friendly. But if you have the money upgrading to something that flows better (L92s for example) would be recommended as you will not have to rely on the heads to control compression ratio since you are buying a rotating assembly.

Hydraulic if you're street-driven. There are a few on this board that drive around on the street with solid setups but it is not recommended. In the end it's your personal preference and how much attention you want to give to your car.

Already been mentioned but Callies rods, and Wiseco pistons would be an inexpensive, but strong combination. You can re-use your stock crank unless looking at a stroker.

This is really going to depend on your transmission and planned weight. But if you are going to favor the street aluminum would help.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I have a 408 6.0 iron block. Callies compstar rods and callies crank. Of course had to use aftermarket crank when went up to 408. Wiseco custom pistons,stronger pins ,hellfire rings. Slp oil pump,slp double roller. Cam is lingenfelter gt7. Pretty mild but get more lift and bit more duration from my yella terra 1.8s.
Of course have arp main studs, head studs and rod bolts. I got thicker deck afr 225 heads. I plan on maybe 1000rwhp max with some spray on top of my turbos but likely most of the time on street be happy to have maybe 650 to 800rwhp . Car is actually pretty darn fast already at 7.5psi.

Of course you can go for stock crank they are still pretty darn tough and not go bigger.
All depends on how many corners and what budget you are on. I wanted a streetable combo. So stuck with hydraulic cam. The afr 225 might lose some bottom on a smaller cubic inch motor but seem to have plenty of bottom end currently and going to auto with 3400 yank so should have more than enough down low. Picked a cam that was also pretty mellow ,kept lift under 600 as don't like to change out valve springs too often and
didn't want lope. Afr of course are thicker deck than stock heads. This can help keep the heads down as you go up there on power and boost. Although still hearing tuning and reasonable timing are the key to keeping the heads down.

HemiChallenger

Thanks guys. I wasnt sure at that kind of power level with bost if a solid was necessary, I know the factory valvetrains are pretty stout pieces. Looks like i'll be keeping the factory lifters/rockers/heads and getting arp studs.

My engine guy sells autotec pistons out of california, I believe, and swears by them. a set of custom made forged pistons will be right around 650 or so. .010 over floating pin, boost ready with rings.