tomz28

iTrader: (20)

well killed the same turbo i killed last time( the driver side) and no one has any ideas on why it happened. the turbo shop said it look like it ran out of oil. i find that hard to belive with the SLP oil pump with a high PSI spring in it. the other side looks find. The turbo shop wants 475 to rebuild it. im thinking thats way to much. what do you think?

the car was smoking on WOT but it was worst on decel. WTF its not playing by the rules here. the feed line looked alittle bent but not bad im going to have a new one made to be safe. Im also thinking about making that hole in the banjo bolt alittle bigger. The one that feeds the turbo


The inlet on that side has been fixed so its not sucking shut.

i need some here guys what do you think?


Thanks
Tom

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

I have a stock brand new driver side APS turbo. Pm me if you want to buy it..

Also I was looking at the small bonjo bolt hole also. It looks really small. Anyone else make theres bigger and how much bigger. Just doesn't look like alot of oil will flow in there.

Big_Bird_WS6

iTrader: (7)

**** like this is where APS as a company failed. and peter as a rep failed even more. i am about to finish my system and if i need to do the bolt i can do it now. i would call aps to see what a tech says but they will say call a state side dealer.

maybe louis will jump in

KnightmareLS1

iTrader: (12)

Big Bird, how did those Billet Turbos work out? If you don't mind, how much did they run you? I have a dud APS turbo and am looking for some to replace the stock APS ones with. Thanks

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

Well I think I may just go ahead and drill the holes out alittle bigger tonight. I had to take the K member out anyways to cut it to make the bigger turbos fit.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Watching with interest. I am not sure what am doing on my car yet either. I still haven't pulled out the aps centers as do have that one dud with the internal crack letting coolant into oil so was just going to run it oil cooled for a bit and if it croaks well..they can be run without coolant have done my research on them. They are mits 20g and many guys don't use the water line even on that same housing.

I also have two ebay centers for backup and still thinking of getting some billet or lg ones.
A warning on the billet ball bearing ones. They likely will need much less oil than normal types.
So something to be aware of .And water cooling is more critical on the ball bearing types
.At least from what Tom said taking off the drivers side center is easy enough,right Tom??. Not sure on the passenger side anyone take passenger side center out without dropping kmember or starter?
You don't take out entire turbo on drivers side to change out cart. Just undo vband and take off compressor housing and undo snap ring on bench.and reassemble. Of course you have to undo lines,intake tube. Good time to put stents in the intake tubes.

Wish had more to report on my car but fighting a cam sensor issue that is preventing my car from running with the new 120 injectors . Its intermittent and had it running great today for about 15 minutes. Then PO 342 came in and spoiled my fun. Engine goes to batch fire and batch fire don't work on 120 pound injectors.!
I just changed my cam sensor few weeks ago so its got to be wiring ,hoping its not cam walked but pretty sure loctitied the retainer on there. Sure hope I did!

Also wondering since the billet guys wanted to see my turbos to do the new centers what exactly do they do. Do them modify the center carts can't see how that works or do they copy the centers . Maybe then they already now have them on file or something?

Be nice if lg could also offer a Ball bearing option. Always nice to have options.

So guys let me know if one of you pulls the center cart out of passenger side without dropping kmember. I am not overly worried to drop k as have cherry picker anyway to hold engine up.But still if drivers is fast an easy to swap out maybe passenger is too.

barnat

iTrader: (59)

Ive heard it was the drivers inlet hose collapsing which has cause so many drivers side turbos to go bad !thats the main reason i upgraded to the reinforced hoses before i fired mine.If you dont have the money for the new hoses, just put a band clamp around the center of the hose (FLAT PART)till its tight and you cant callapse the hose by sweezing it with your hand

Big_Bird_WS6

iTrader: (7)

honestly, still on order. and on top of that dont have car together yet.

but what you all think about the oil bung. should we drill them out. i know peter has said that it can only take x amount of oil psi. but what about the amount at that psi

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Hugger z has lots of miles on his aps build with those same oil lines. Think he has not had any problems.? Hugger you out there guy?
And think there are other builds with no scavenger pump and think no problems. So don't think its oil restriction in banjo killing it.
I wouldn't think it would hurt to drill it out no bb can take much more oil thru them than BB turbos. I had to buy restrictor according to Forced performance for my 97 talon garett bb turbo.

Keep us posted on the billet ones Big Bird .Its nice to have options.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Barnat you are talking putting band clamp on outside of hose. It would seem that its vacuum sucking them shut of course so can't see how band clamp externally can help but maybe it could. I was going to do think 3 inch oval pipe internally shortly on mine. heck maybe do both! inside and outside pretty much would be a hard pipe then. Buddy just said to use some aluminum in there and squish it.And think one guy used chicken wire..

tomz28

iTrader: (20)

i want to know more about these billet turbos as well

the p side turbo can be pulled but you need to pull the starter, the down pipe and then you can get to the bolts to get it out

it takes about a hour to get the whole driver side out its not bad at all

Loius has not call me back in two days now so i think he is working alot

i want BB turbos that will last this stuff sucks

thanks guys

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

Well I went ahead and drilled mine out last night. just alittle bit bigger. Alittle piece of mind now that I know there getting oil. I would think any little debris would plug the hole and not let any oil through.

Louis

iTrader: (7)

I think tom has a gate issue. The same turbo failed twice, and his boost curve looks like a centri blower car. This is indicative that ONE turbo is doing all of the work, and thats the one thats failing.

I told him to check the gates, as I have had a BRAND new, out of the box tial gate stick, and swap turbos side to side, and see if it follows the turbo, or sticks to the one side.

Keep me posted tom, I will be out of the office all next week, so the guys can relay info, or holler here

Louis

iTrader: (7)

The orifice is .130" in diameter, that is plenty of flow for the turbo with our oiling systems

How is your car coming along? What turbos did you end up going with?b

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

So have you put scavenger pumps on all the f body cars you have done. Do your turbos need the scavenger pumps to be on there ?

I am interested in maybe some of your upgraded turbos not sure exactly when would get them them though .Guess ask some questions on your other thread.

Louis

iTrader: (7)

I put them on a case by case basis, so far out of almost a dozen, all but 2 needed a scavenge pump...

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Hmm wonder why those two didn't need one. I guess just not enough gravity feed happening. Yet we seem to have quite a few on this board that don't seem to need them. Maybe some guys overfill or something or maybe some people drilled the holes farther down in the oil pan.
But as said not a huge deal doing a pump setup.I dont' know how mine are since haven't been able to drive my car this spring do to other issues.They didn't seem to be smoking last fall but only put 300 miles on engine and turbos.

tomz28

iTrader: (20)

thanks louis for the tips i working on it this weekend and ill see how it works out.

its not to bad taking out the P. side turbo guys dont worry about it

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Was hoping could take out passenger side without having to touch downpipe or exhaust . Might prefer to drop kmember instead of messing with exhaust manifold.
Would taking off air compressor help or dropping starter?

tomz28

iTrader: (20)

the pass. side is a no go not going to happen with out pulling the k-member sorry about getting your hopes up

i did try to do what loius said about the WG and i still have boost creep. it looks like 10psi with 8psi springs ill have to data log it and see. anyone have anymore ideas about this

well when i pulled the pass. side turbo apart in the car i found it is bad too so right now i hate this APS kit what a pain the ***. the car still smokes on decel but it runs good LOL

i need to get new turbos and forget about trying to save thses 20g that came wwith the kit