great421

iTrader: (1)

My STS kit makes anywhere from 5.5 psi to 10 psi (depending on my boost controller's setting), and it uses a 2.5" to 3" silicone connector just in front of the MAF; but it keeps blowing the connector off!

I've tried double hose clamps at both ends, in addition to 3M Mastic Tape, but every time the turbo hits 6 psi, the pressure blows at the MAF.

I'm sure I can't be the only guy who's had this problem - what is the best way to resolve this problem? A new silicone connector? Duct Tape? Super glue?

HELP!

3800SII

Is a T-bolt clamp on it? Those should never blow off if torqued properly...

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

T bolt clamps are the best clamps for boost. They can take like 30 plus on my talons they should easily take 10psi . Good slicone couplings are also a good thing. There are levels of quality for silicone.

And beaded pipes are a good thing too.

great421

iTrader: (1)

My father (a 66 YO drag racer) just suggested the very same thing - I'll look into those, Thanks!

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

old trick is to use some hairspray on the inside of the coupler and it'll "glue" to the pipe

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

Nice idea

JOHNBOY66

Make sure eveything is clean. Wipe down with denatured alcohol. Also check your motor mounts. Make sure you dont have to much movement pulling the hose off.

I run beaded boost tubes, regular old 3 ply straight silicone hose, and good T bolt clamps with boost pushing 60psi on the truck pictured in my sig with no issues.

Louis

iTrader: (7)

If hair spray doesnt solve it, use some super glue, but you have to acetone or laquer thinner both surfaces or it will never grab on to it no matter how tight the clamp it.

JOHNBOY66

To add to this if your tubes are polished or very smooth rough them up with scotch brite than clean and glue. The rougher surface give the glue more purchase.

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

If the tube you are trying to clamp to is really smooth or chrome, none of the above tricks might do it reliably. You really need a lip, flare or bead on the end of what you are clamping to so the T-bar clamp has a mechanical stop to work with.

Any pics of what you are trying to clamp to?

Jim

dlandsvZ28

If you can't get them flared, then welding a bead on works but wrapping aluminum wire around the pipe and tacking in place is quick and resembles a flare better than building up a bead to accomplish the same thing. If you are are paying by the hour for welding - a lot cheaper too.

great421

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the info guys - right now the black adhesive is curing and hopfully this'll do the trick, if not I'll purchase a new silicone connector and some T-bolt clamps and lay on the super glue!

: )

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Yep, exactly what I did on my tubing after I welded the shapes together:



I have never blown off a hose.

Jim

great421

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the suggestions guys!

The black silicone and standard hose clamps (torqued with a 1/4 drive ratchet vs. a 5/16 nut driver!) has held up to 11 psi according to my #1 son, who was in the pass seat reading the boost gauge, as we jumped on the freeway today!

Too much fun!

Now off to get a real Dyno tune, as my mail order tune is close but (IMHO) far too rich!

dlandsvZ28

The stainless T-Bolt clamps are what you want to eventually use.

They are pretty hard to break, do not slip, and for sure don't eat into the silicone hose like screw type hose clamps do.

They are much cheaper now than what they used to cost. At 11 lbs of boost I would want to play on the safe side and make sure than they will never come loose. You don't want to be sucking dirt into your intercooler(s), blower, or engine if one comes loose.

Check your system frequently as there is a lot of movement and flexing, engine, frame, heat expansion and contraction.