elias_799

iTrader: (8)

i have installed this kit on my car a month ago and since have put on 600miles, last week i have noticed a big exhaust leak, did not really know where the sound was coming from until i removed the sparkplug wires. and there it was.







this thing was a real pain to get out, everything is in the way, and i was really frustrated with it. especially that it cracked so quickly. ill try to do something with truck manifolds this winter.

SKINNY69

That sucks man. Do you have any supports for the turbo or is the merge pipe and everything just hanging off of the logs? The weld looks alright so the only thing I can think to cause the issue is all that weight hanging off of them.

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

IS this SS or mild steel ? Was it coated with anything ?

not sure but from the pic looks like the weld could use a little more filler wire in few spots. Im use to smaller weld loops cause i mainly tig weld

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

this is stainless steel ceramic coated. there is nothing supporting the turbo for except the logger.

where would you use more filler ?

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

whoever welded it has no clue how to weld (theres more to welding than sticking stuff together). There is hardly any weld on there. the weld is also undercut BAD (you dont want ANY) and basically looks like its fused together. Something like this has to endure endless heat cycles and deal with thermal expansion. I would compare it to using scotch tape to hold a large heavy box together.... you know it wont hold for ****. I just fixed a turbo header a friend paid a grand for, sure it looked like it worked but whoever did it had no clue what they were doing as in working with metal.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

Gauging by the welds on there, put another complete pass around every weld. And dont under cut it. Undercutting creates a spot that if there is stress.....it cracks there. Stainless is altogether a different character than mild steel. Its brittle. Something like that even though it is probably only .109 wall thickness....I would put a nice root pass in, small and flush, and then go over it with a cover pass that has a nice crown on it,, not flush, and not undercut.

And those cracks were not caused by any weight on them, they were most likely done while welding. SS expands quite a bit, so when you weld it and it cools and you dont have enough filler material in there it cracks, Also if you cold weld it, it can do it. a lot of time the crack is so fine you dont see it. But after a few heat cycles which heat it all up and cool it all down at the same time you kind of stress relieve it, and the crack opens up. And if there is any weight on it, then its just like a crack in a windsheild....keeps going. But the initial crack was formed from welding. I was a pipe welder for 9 years, seen this often.

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

thanks man, i will get my welder to do that for me.

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

above agreed

Im not sure of the thickness of the parts But i preheat stuff like this. i know that over kill but it makes me feel better

Also make sure the welder is not over heating the metal which will cause Chromium Carbides to form making it easy to stress crack.
Which might be the reason he went over the weld fast causing the bigger loops

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

also do you guys think i should weld the outside of the flange to the runner ? you can see that it has just been spot welded in the second picture.

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

If the first welds are good then its not needed. If unsure of the first weld go over them

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

no i don't think they are good, in the first picture you can see that it cracked on the other side. what do you think would be a reasonable price to go over all the welds ? also do you have any recommendation for a good welder in Toronto ?

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

I would weld the outside, just make sure it is bolted to a head when your welding it, otherwise it might warp pretty good.