02anti_vnm

iTrader: (32)

hey guys i have a question took my ss down to williams performance to get them to get it running and tuned ( stupid coil harnesses ) anyways the finally got it running and went to do a driveability tune on it and the spec stage 5 clutch i bought from a member off of here was bad! so they did the best they could with what they had and i had to drive it home with it starting to slip after 2k rpms. drove it around easy to brake in the fresh engine. yes... yes... i hate to say it but after brake in i did get on it a few times with out it being tuned fully. more less a tune to drive and brake it in on even with it only on waste gate spring (13 psi) and a bad clutch and a non wot tune the car pulled HARD. anyways long story short i went to check my oil... annnnnddd... milky as crap! drained the oil and yep blown head gasket for sure. so here is my question i used felpro mls .051 thick 3.190 bore. ls1 aluminum block, 317 casting heads. it has arp head studs in it but when torquing the top studs (the smaller ones) i accidentally torqued them to 35 ftlbs when it was supposed to be 22. i backed them off and torqued them correctly but what do you think caused either of the head gaskets to blow? going wot with out the proper tune, felpro just isnt as good as cometic, or the head studs?

my corse of action is to drop the engine out pull the heads inspect everything buy new studs and new cometic head gaskets. sound good?

thanks,
anti_venom

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

It is probable that you stretched the studs with that 60% over-torque. Your course of action sounds fine. Hopefully that's the problem and you did no other damage with your non-tuned action. A lot of FI people have great luck with the GM MLS gaskets too.

Jim

ninetres

iTrader: (35)

Going WOT without a dialed in tune is BRILLIANT. Good call. I vote that is what caused your head to lift pushing water. Why would you (or anyone) do that after spending all the time/money to build a turbo LS1 car????

None the less, run the GM 5 layer MLS. Search and the part number will pop up.

KILLER-LS1

iTrader: (18)

you dont have to drop the motor to pull the heads. i think you can remove just 2 or 3 of the rear studs and you should be able to wiggle them off...

Johnv

Don't you need the 6ltr gaskets when useing 317 heads ?

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

i've probably blown a dozen sets of head gaskets over the years, never put water into the oil, always put exhaust into the radiator. i would look for something more significant.

ive run fel pros with good results the last 3 years or so.

also, the heads will come up and clear of the studs fine from the top...or at least mine always have.

stevieturbo

Your problem is not gasket or torque related. Unless you torqued the big studs to 35lbft lol

GM MLS work just fine, and are far cheaper than the rest.

And as Mouse says, for it to blow coolant into an oilway, is rather odd.

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

i think you might of used the 5.7 head gaskets. when you where actually supposed to use the 6.0 gaskets with the 317 heads. the 5.7 head gaskets will overhang in to the combustion chamber when used with the 317 heads. and that will cause the fuel to preignite and lots of other interesting stuff.

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Just did 317's, ARP studs, & GM MLS gaskets. No Problems getting the heads over the studs in the car at all. I've been running 12 psi on pump gas with zero issues also.

otherwhitemeat

iTrader: (3)

Yup..what he said...bubbles in the coolant, also watch if your temp gauge starts bouncing around

02anti_vnm

iTrader: (32)

yes yes not my brighter moment but it had been almost a year since i had the car running and i missed it lol but i plan on getting it fully tuned before i get on it again. learned my lesson

im droping it out because it will be easier to change the clutch with it all out like that then on jack stands in the garage plus i might do a tubular k member while i have it out

i honestly cant remember what bore they were but i am for sure going to buy the 6ltr gaskets this time

not trying to sound like an idiot but i thought that was what happened when you blew a head gasket was got milky oil?

if it helps... when williams performance finnaly got my car running, at idle it had a slight trickle coming out of the passenger side head for about 5 min. but they said it stoped and that it was probably where the new head gaskets didnt seal good until they warmed up and it never did it again.

thanks guys for the help

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

When LS1's lift the heads they usually just push water, just leaking boost/combustion into the cooling system but not letting coolant back in to the cylinder. Thats why no one has mentioned the oil looking like chocolate milk. I've never had it happen myself but I have researched it a little.

02anti_vnm

iTrader: (32)

So what would that mean if the oil is milky?

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

^^^ water is mixing with the oil

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I had coolant in my oil big time it was cracked aps housing,internal crack.
Usually its on of these things, cracked block this can happen if you put in head studs or bolts and have coolant still in the head bolt holes. The fluid is non compressible and easy to crack the ls1 aluminum block.Thats why critical to clean out the head bolt holes before putting in new studs or bolts.

Second you can have cracked head. Third you can have internally cracked turbo center cart if its water and oil cooled type.

I was also under the impresion though that a blown head gasket would let coolant into oil.

SilverSS

iTrader: (30)

gonna use one of these soon...so felpro or cometics?.......

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Ususally cracked head, block, or blown head gasket. Or the turbo housing thing as stated above if you have a ball bearing turbo and its liquid cooled.

stevieturbo

GM MLS. Why spend any more than is needed ?

427

iTrader: (3)

I like the Fel-Pro best for the race gaskets. The GM gasket that is marked 6.0/6.2 is also good if using 4 bolt block.

Kurt

02anti_vnm

iTrader: (32)

so basically im looking for a new block or heads?

i blew the block out when i put the studs in but how would that crack the block? even if water was in the holes your only supposed to screw the studs into the block finger tight?

thanks guys