speedcrazy2

iTrader: (1)

i finally got my d1sc installed but my car is running hotter than i would like

my setup is a be cool radiator with a flex-a-lite 16" puller (2500 cfm)on the ati fan shroud and then im running a little cheap 12" pusher on the driver side

at idle my car stays about 175 degrees but when driving it goes up to the 210 range and it is cold here right now

any input from you guys that have dealt with this before would be nice

ZLEEPER

iTrader: (24)

do a search on cooling issues. I think bferel??? had a good set up which I copied on my becool set up. twin pushers fal440. draws a buttload of current but cools nicely.

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

I think you should add an additional 9" puller and you should be good. I run a 16" puller, 9" puller, and a 12" pusher and it works pretty good for me.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

You shouldn't be having this kind of a problem with your two fans in this cooler weather. The first thing I would do is to make sure the fans are wired correctly. This is a very common mistake, and the air can bounce back from hitting the radiator and give the appearance of being wired correctly.
The next thing would be to make sure all the air is out of the coolant system, and the thermostat is functioning correctly. Bob

speedcrazy2

iTrader: (1)

yeah i have been through all that more than 3 times Bob and i installed a new 160 degree thermostat and waterpump with my new setup

the new thermostat helped because my old one was sticking and the car would idle at 190 degrees, but it still gets hot under load

my a/f ratio is about 12.5 at idle and a little lower at part throttle

AFASTYZFR1

iTrader: (55)

Air in cooling system? It shouldn't get that much hotter while driving normally.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Do you still have the a.c. condensor, if you do it could be clogged with bugs and debris. Bob

john_sblendorio

iTrader: (4)

Not sure what kind of power you are making but those are pretty common temps for my car after a good pull even in cool temps. I installed an electric water pump, which cooled things down by 10-15 degrees.

Aster

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, mine warms up to 190 - 200 and stays there. Hot or cold out it doesn't seem to make a difference. This is with a stock radiator, 1 16" Spahl paddle fan, and the Procharger fan shroud. As long as the fan is working my temps are happy. If the fan fails I am screwed as the temps rise fast with the fan off.

WHPLASH

iTrader: (22)

My Procharger manual had the wiring messed up on how to wire the fan. I switched the wires (opposite) and my heating issue was solved. If thats your problem.

BadgeZ28

iTrader: (28)

Did you reset the turn on for the fans in the PCM? I want full control over cooling, so bypassed the stock relays and installed a manual adjustable control with a probe in the upper radiator hose. I have a 180 stat and have the fans turn on full at 185. I also notched the core support and moved the AC condenser four inches in front of the radiator. That allowed me to mount a pusher to the face of the radiator. I don't run a shroud on the engine side of the radiator.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Don't know your setup but if it's a front mount intercooler then thats the problem.Seen it many times.We started to make panels that direct all the air to the radiator instead of the big opening left behind the intercooler going to the radiator.That dropped temps dramaticly while driving.

A 402ci car with shroud would run 220-230 degree's with AC on,after shroud it would run 190 under the same conditions.

speedcrazy2

iTrader: (1)

i have the fans coming on full at 160 degrees

setup is an iron 6.0 370cu.in forged out and should be about 15 lbs of boost(ive hit 13 at part throttle)

and i should be somewhere in the 700 rwhp range but i havent dynoed it yet or even did a full throttle run yet

i have got on it but only to like 80% throttle and through first gear

i think i am going to cut a whole on the drivers side of the ati fan shroud and install another little puller on that side

i guess as long as it doesnt get up to 230 or so i will be fine but i hate to see what happens on a 110 degree day here


at part throttle and idle im commanding around 24 degrees of timing but it drops to 10 degrees with any good amount of throttle ,anything wrong with the timing in you guys opinion

BlkHwk

iTrader: (8)

My car does just the opposite. Gets warm idling and as I get to cruising speed cools off. I have yet to get a little 9" fan installed.
Still runnin the twins don't have FMIC.

TWS

iTrader: (63)

+1. My LS1 F-bods run about 205 when fully warmed up. Blown and NA.

Had a prob with the Procharged car overheating but only in hot weather and only when running the A/C. Amazingly, some additives (Hyperlube) cured it.

There are other threads about this. Try a search and you may find some more useful input.

barnat

iTrader: (59)

If the fans are running correctly? and theres NOOOO air in the system ?Could it possible be in the A/R tune thats currently in it?Maybe its lean some? Im just throwing this out there guys LOL Dont bash me for this one LOL

topgun1000

do you have surge valve or a race
valve, make sure it's open when not in boost you may
need a race valve to release more air. you could remove
1 elbow and drive the car and see if it gets hot. if temps
stay down you need more valve hope that helps

speedcrazy2

iTrader: (1)

you make a good point but according to my wideband im only at 12.5 cruising and a little richer when in throttle


and im using a tial q blow off valve that i know stays open and blows alot of air out so i doubt i need anything there

im going to try the little puller fan on the driver side and put some water wetter or something in it and well see how that does

other than maybe im way off om my timing i dont know what else it could be but i think that is okay also