Best foundation for 600 whp turbo build? LQ4? 5.3?
01-17-2010, 05:21 PM
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Best foundation for 600 whp turbo build? LQ4? 5.3? Well Im getting my list together and trying to make a build plan. I will be running a Masterpower Q trim TC76, JGS 44mm wastegate and 50mm BOV, ebay intercooler, and all the supporting stuff..
I had originally planned to just turbo my stock internal 98 LS1, but I want to achieve 600 rwhp safely and im not sure it will cut it. What would be a good option? 5.3? LQ4? I will also have the EPP cam, PAC springs, etc. I can get a 5.3 for about $400 and an LQ4 for about $800. Which would be a better option? This is my first turbo build and ANY help will be greatly appreciated!
I had originally planned to just turbo my stock internal 98 LS1, but I want to achieve 600 rwhp safely and im not sure it will cut it. What would be a good option? 5.3? LQ4? I will also have the EPP cam, PAC springs, etc. I can get a 5.3 for about $400 and an LQ4 for about $800. Which would be a better option? This is my first turbo build and ANY help will be greatly appreciated!
01-17-2010, 08:20 PM
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Awesome. What heads would I run with my engine? I have a set of 317s I pulled of a wrecked Hummer for $40. Do I need to modify them in any way? (Other than springs)
01-17-2010, 10:38 PM
#7
When this combo makes 600+ to the tire for more than 20k miles reliably without crapping out that bottomend, post back up
98camaro28, don't base a build on a single reply. Research, making that much power on a stock bottomend is a huge gamble and a crapshoot if it'll live at all. You gotta remember, you're talking damn near 700 flywheel hp!
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01-17-2010, 11:08 PM
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More cubes are still nice to spool the turbo up quicker and make better hp and torque on or off boost. Bigger motor means less boost to hit same power goals.I would go with iron block lq4. Budget build is stock crank,forged rods and pistons. arp head studs,arp main studs can be good idea as well.
01-17-2010, 11:34 PM
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When this combo makes 600+ to the tire for more than 20k miles reliably without crapping out that bottomend, post back up
98camaro28, don't base a build on a single reply. Research, making that much power on a stock bottomend is a huge gamble and a crapshoot if it'll live at all. You gotta remember, you're talking damn near 700 flywheel hp!
98camaro28, don't base a build on a single reply. Research, making that much power on a stock bottomend is a huge gamble and a crapshoot if it'll live at all. You gotta remember, you're talking damn near 700 flywheel hp!
01-19-2010, 02:41 PM
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More cubes are still nice to spool the turbo up quicker and make better hp and torque on or off boost. Bigger motor means less boost to hit same power goals.I would go with iron block lq4. Budget build is stock crank,forged rods and pistons. arp head studs,arp main studs can be good idea as well.
Why do so many FI people built 347's? I'm guessing it's to save the up front cost of a $$ LS2 block (assuming they wanted to stay aluminum)?
01-19-2010, 03:42 PM
#11
Well if you already have a 346 you can just throw in some forged rods and pistons.
If you want to go bigger then you have the choices..You can run lq4 with stock crank they are very strong and just put in forged pistons and rods in that. If you want still more you get forged crank and punch it out to 408 or whatever. Or if you want aluminum you go to ls2 and again you can run stock crank or forge up crank,rods and pistons and punch the aluminum up some .If you want to go insane power with like 427 plus cubes you build a forged up LSX block and high end aluminum block if you win the lotto!
I wanted a few things in my build.I like bottom end and midrange. My car is not in boost that much in the city. So wanted pretty good torque down low and off boost. I have 3.54 gears and 3400 stall but still wanted the low end grunt of the 408. And as said it will spool turbos quicker than smaller engine. Pretty much a win win. And can run say 12psi instead of 20psi and make same power. That can be a good thing sometimes. Don't have to spin the turbos as hard, might help heads stay down..
Engine is still going to make similar max power as when the turbos hit their max airflow thats about that. Just might mean say 800rwhp on 346 at 20psi and 800rwhp on 408 at 15..pulling numbers from a hat to make the point.And maybe get spool up 500 rpm lower again just pulling numbers. Still wider powerband is better especially in a mostly street car like mine.
5.3 builds are real budget builds. They can work fine too. But again fi might be the replacement for displacement but bigger is still better when it comes to motors in my opinion. But I am old school BBC guy.Course bigger motors do bring more traction challenges!
If you want to go bigger then you have the choices..You can run lq4 with stock crank they are very strong and just put in forged pistons and rods in that. If you want still more you get forged crank and punch it out to 408 or whatever. Or if you want aluminum you go to ls2 and again you can run stock crank or forge up crank,rods and pistons and punch the aluminum up some .If you want to go insane power with like 427 plus cubes you build a forged up LSX block and high end aluminum block if you win the lotto!
I wanted a few things in my build.I like bottom end and midrange. My car is not in boost that much in the city. So wanted pretty good torque down low and off boost. I have 3.54 gears and 3400 stall but still wanted the low end grunt of the 408. And as said it will spool turbos quicker than smaller engine. Pretty much a win win. And can run say 12psi instead of 20psi and make same power. That can be a good thing sometimes. Don't have to spin the turbos as hard, might help heads stay down..
Engine is still going to make similar max power as when the turbos hit their max airflow thats about that. Just might mean say 800rwhp on 346 at 20psi and 800rwhp on 408 at 15..pulling numbers from a hat to make the point.And maybe get spool up 500 rpm lower again just pulling numbers. Still wider powerband is better especially in a mostly street car like mine.
5.3 builds are real budget builds. They can work fine too. But again fi might be the replacement for displacement but bigger is still better when it comes to motors in my opinion. But I am old school BBC guy.Course bigger motors do bring more traction challenges!
01-19-2010, 03:43 PM
#12
I went with a budget build in 2004 and it has held together well.
I put my FI motor together around 72k (I think, maybe 77k). The car is at 100k now. It has made a reliable 650-700+ rwhp since its inception. I drive the car all the time and beat the crap out of it.
My motor build.
383 All-bore (APE Dry Sleeve) - I would go with the iron block if I were you.
Ported LQ9 head
Forged Diamond Pistons -26cc reliefs
8:1 Compression
Nitrated Stock Crank
Stock Rods (bronze bushed) - forged rods are really cheap now, but you can stick with stock if you bush them.
When this motor goes I'm planning on LS2 block, forged pistons, nitrated stock crank, forged rods and maybe a fancy head (AFR).
I put my FI motor together around 72k (I think, maybe 77k). The car is at 100k now. It has made a reliable 650-700+ rwhp since its inception. I drive the car all the time and beat the crap out of it.
My motor build.
383 All-bore (APE Dry Sleeve) - I would go with the iron block if I were you.
Ported LQ9 head
Forged Diamond Pistons -26cc reliefs
8:1 Compression
Nitrated Stock Crank
Stock Rods (bronze bushed) - forged rods are really cheap now, but you can stick with stock if you bush them.
When this motor goes I'm planning on LS2 block, forged pistons, nitrated stock crank, forged rods and maybe a fancy head (AFR).
