Blacklightning744

iTrader: (7)

hey guys i just got an STS Turbo kit for my 2002 WS6 M6, i have never gone forced induction and am lookin for a couple of quick pointers. i am only going 8 PSI max and am keeping the the internals stock. i have the boost controller, tial 38 mm (i think) wastegate, 67mm turbo and all the plumbing, etc... system is non intercooled. also i am going to be running the EPP forced induction cam with it for added performance.

1st, should i get a bigger fuel pump, or something like a kennebell boost a pump, magnavolt??? i have ford green top fuel injectors so i think i might be good on fuel, idk need opinions.

2nd, tuning question, should i get a 2 bar MAP sensor for the car, or can i just lower the MAF threshold to when i start to get in boost??

3rd, anybody have any idea how much power ill be puttin down lmao.

current mods are in sig

thx guys,
Tom

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

The 42 lb injectors will be sufficient provided you have enough fuel.

I'd go with a Racetronix Walbro pump in the tank, it is all you need.

I'd keep the stock maf and have it dyno tuned.

I'm going to guess you will be somewhere between 450 and 500 rwhp. Bob

The Fugitive

iTrader: (6)

there are things you need to do to make sure the STS will run ok.

1. the oiling system (if it's a brand new updated system from STS you may not have to worry about it). Be sure to upgrade the oil pump, get rid of the hobbs switch that makes the pump switch between hi and low, and get that....I am having a brain fart right now but it's the piece that starts with an r that is in the oil feed line before the turbo. Oh and don't forget a oil catch can because with FI you need to release crank pressure.

2. Coat and/or wrap your entire exhaust. If you don't do it that's cool but when you decide to you will notice the difference.

3. Look into getting some piping to go under the axle. It will give you less bends in the system.

I may have left some stuff out or used the wrong terms sorry it has been a early morning for me.

HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

What these guys have said is all good advice.

Also, if you have any fabrication skills at all, I would get an intercooler from eBay and a piping kit and install it yourself. An intercooler will help TREMENDOUSLY to keep your stock short block in tact.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

Skip the cam, spend the money on an intercooler. Sell the long tubes, install stock manifolds (preferably ceramic coated). If you search for threads I've started you'll find a ton of info on getting a rear mount working well.

Blacklightning744

iTrader: (7)

thx a ton guys, means a lot, now would it work at all with the stock fuel pump or is that not even a valid question reason i ask is im like broke lol, LTs have to stay on for now for the same reason, but im workin on gettin the exhaust wrap, front mount interkooler, also in the works, i am keepin the cam tho. and Mechanic skills YES, uhh Fab skills...... NO lmao. ill look into it tho, thx for the advise guys, now on the flip side anyone know where i can find a turbo blanket for the 67mm???

The Fugitive

iTrader: (6)

I got my turbo blanket from Forcedinductions.com (sponsor). Yes you will need a fuel pump. If you need some money I will take that cam off your hands lol. But until you save up for the fuel pump I would say hold off on the install, you don't want to even chance running lean, better safe than sorry. You may want to check on here for some manifolds I got mine for $25. What are the cam spec's for the one you have in the car now? And what are your goals for this set up it would be easier to steer you in the right direction?

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

Don't even bother installing the turbo until you get rid of the long tubes, you'll hate the car.

Blacklightning744

iTrader: (7)

alrighty so pump is a must gotcha, lol cam wise its a torquer V2 cam outta TSP cam selection, cam specs are 232/234 dur, .595/.598 lift, 112 LSA makes good power, i do still have my stock manifolds, and exhaust y pipe, but dumb question(im new with turbos) wouldn t the LTs help with the velocity making it easier for the air to reach the turbo? power goals 550-600 would be nice, although i want to make minimum 530 rwhp. pump wise would the walbro in tank replacment for $134 at ws6store be fine??? i kinda dont want to get the huge one with the harness.
same dumb question lol wouldnt the LTs help with the air velocity down to the turbo?


thx for the input guys,
Tom

HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

LTs lose too much heat for a rear mount setup. Take it from those of us who've done it, ditch them for stock manis.

Blacklightning744

iTrader: (7)

alrighty then back on with the manifolds

dwfronk

I am looking at about the same set up but not from a kit. Would shorties work instead of LT?

The Fugitive

iTrader: (6)

yes the intake one would be fine for those numbers but when you get the money see about DIY twin intake it's very easy to do and there is a sticky about it. The cam you have isn't too far off from the EPP FI cam it would be interesting to run that to see how it works.

Hmm shorties I think I asked that question before (probably by phone cause I can't remember the answer). Someone should answer this question.

Bo's 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

Sorry to jump on your thread but can someone tell me about what it cost to get a rear mount set up. Thanks

Blacklightning744

iTrader: (7)

i agree yea the Torquer V2 isnt too far off on the intake side, but i want to go with the EPP FI cam anyway lol, im gettin it eventually for a blower build in the far future but i figured id might as well get it now lol, and what is this DIY intake you speak of? how does it work?

also tuning wise are you guys runnin speed density? if so are you guys runnin it OL or CL when finished tuning?

Blacklightning744

iTrader: (7)

no biggy, new its like $6000-$6500, i got mine used for $2350, keep ur eyes open for a good used one they pop up all the time.

Bo's 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

Thanks

The Fugitive

iTrader: (6)

sorry that's a typo it was supposed to be twin intank fuel pumps

longrange4u

iTrader: (2)

Zombie wont answer this question... because we have debated this untill we are all sick. The rearmount guys that make real power have all seen this personally... take it as fact. If you want to understand why... do a search for Zombie, 1320, or even me... and look back 1-2 years ago and you can read some very indepth threads that discuss this topic into the thermodynamic level... as well as the actual tests that Zombie and 1320 did...

Or.. save yourself some time and take our word for it... Sell the LT's..

eodmonkey

hey since this is a current thread mind if i jump in? i have an 02 z with an sts kit. since i threw a rod bearing and probably blew a piston ring with it im doing a 383 stroker, heads n cam, bigger turbo. i was thinking of going to 9.0-1 for 10-15psi on pump gas. its still a partial dd so i want to keep it acting the same, maybe spool a lil sooner. sound like a good plan? also blacklightning pick up a wideband a/f. if your tuning it yourself get the diablo and work with the guys from sts or just take it to a dyno n its faster. also if you really really want a cam, sts does have a thing with compcams for turbo grinds. but look at a head and cam pack together its just easier