Twin Turbo Choice...
04-21-2010, 01:51 PM
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Twin Turbo Choice... I am looking to take a chevy 1500 that currently has a 5.3l engine in it and swap out to a 383/395 bottom end, either port the 5.3l heads or get new ones, and fab a custom intake manifold and all of that... My question is what size turbos should I be looking for if I am running twins? I know most run T76 turbos (or similar) from masterpower on their 6.0l but dont know the conversion to twins... Thanks for the help!
04-21-2010, 06:25 PM
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I will be looking for 750-800hp... I was thinking about 2 masterpowers:
T4 60-1 / P-TRIM / .50 A/R
OR
T4 60-1 / P-TRIM / .68 A/R
Is that a good choice? which A/R? This will be ran mostly on the street but will see the track a couple times a season...
If neither are a good choice can someone please point me in the right direction?
T4 60-1 / P-TRIM / .50 A/R
OR
T4 60-1 / P-TRIM / .68 A/R
Is that a good choice? which A/R? This will be ran mostly on the street but will see the track a couple times a season...
If neither are a good choice can someone please point me in the right direction?
04-21-2010, 07:04 PM
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Dont waste your time with a custom short block... run the 5.3 till she blows, then swap in a junkyard 6.0.
If you want to swap heads, swap the 317's off a 6.0.
Cubic inches dont matter when you're talking forced induction... my 3.8 daily driver turbo V6 grand national makes 400 at the wheels.
If you want to swap heads, swap the 317's off a 6.0.
Cubic inches dont matter when you're talking forced induction... my 3.8 daily driver turbo V6 grand national makes 400 at the wheels.
04-21-2010, 07:14 PM
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Dont waste your time with a custom short block... run the 5.3 till she blows, then swap in a junkyard 6.0.
If you want to swap heads, swap the 317's off a 6.0.
Cubic inches dont matter when you're talking forced induction... my 3.8 daily driver turbo V6 grand national makes 400 at the wheels.
If you want to swap heads, swap the 317's off a 6.0.
Cubic inches dont matter when you're talking forced induction... my 3.8 daily driver turbo V6 grand national makes 400 at the wheels.
CI matters to correlate how much boost is needed to attain what power level.
e.g an evo with a 2.2 stroker would take ~35-38psi to make 650-700awhp versus the 13.5psi I needed on my 347 to make 660whp...
For the 5.3, I would say the .50 a/r. faster spool time than the .68 although the .68 is still alright for a 5.3 but you will take longer to hit your peak power.
What is making you want a twin setup? that's more things to buy and more things to worry about than a single setup. You might look into a TC76 single turbo setup with a .68 a/r or .96 a/r to make the kit a little cheaper and have less things to worry about.
Cheapest thing to do, if you are talking about bang for buck is to troll the for sale section and look for a used already built motor.
If you keep the 5.3, stock LS6 heads will allow a little better flow while not dropping all your compression with such a huge combustion chamber from the 317 heads since you have dished pistons on that 5.3 already.
With stock 317s, and a stock LS6 intake on my little 347, I made 660whp @ 13.5psi on a single 76.
04-21-2010, 09:53 PM
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I was thinking twins for the simple fact of this truck is eventually going to be made into a show/ drag truck and twins give the engine compartment a sexy look...
I already have a 2004 6.0l long block in holding... its $1000 bucks... has heads and everything. A shop said they will deck and bore .030 over for $160 bucks and balance the finished engine for another 100. I am thinking of wiseco k444x3 pistons, Scat forged 4340 crank, eagle ESP rods, and a comp cam (~$1700 in parts). So around $3000 for a bulletproof bottom end for what I am planning on doing. I will do a home port and polish on the 317s from my 6.0l donor.
I already have a 2004 6.0l long block in holding... its $1000 bucks... has heads and everything. A shop said they will deck and bore .030 over for $160 bucks and balance the finished engine for another 100. I am thinking of wiseco k444x3 pistons, Scat forged 4340 crank, eagle ESP rods, and a comp cam (~$1700 in parts). So around $3000 for a bulletproof bottom end for what I am planning on doing. I will do a home port and polish on the 317s from my 6.0l donor.
04-21-2010, 10:22 PM
#6
Just think about this, for the price of the "bullet proof" bottom end, you can buy 3 complete 6L that have been proven to make 6-800 in stock form...
My next motor will be a blue printed cheapy stock 6L motor 10:1+ comp (243 or 799 heads). Only thing I'll do to it is head studs
For turbo's I wouldn't even go with something as big as 60's. 53's, maybe 57's, but that's it. Your talking turbos capable of 800+ hp min with the small ones and still great spool up. That's what I would do,
My next motor will be a blue printed cheapy stock 6L motor 10:1+ comp (243 or 799 heads). Only thing I'll do to it is head studs
For turbo's I wouldn't even go with something as big as 60's. 53's, maybe 57's, but that's it. Your talking turbos capable of 800+ hp min with the small ones and still great spool up. That's what I would do,
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04-22-2010, 06:37 PM
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04-22-2010, 09:17 PM
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Looks like modularturbo is recommending MasterPowers T3/T4 T61 .96A/R Turbine and .70 A/R compressor... If I decide on this turbo I would prob go with .70A/R turbo for faster spool since this is going to be more of a street truck that will see the track on the weekends... Good idea?
