NEW 383 ci LS1, D1-SC, good cooling system... heating up!!
05-06-2010, 03:12 PM
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NEW 383 ci LS1, D1-SC, good cooling system... heating up!! Hello there!!
Well guys, the problem is that my car is showing more temperature that it should, and more than it did before engine mod. The temp is now on the range of 233 and 240 °F.
The car has a new 383 ci LS1 9.5:1 (Wiseco, Callies H-I, Callies Crank), only 20 miles after new engine, plus a D1-SC at 6 psig. The car has a BeCool unit and a B&M oil cooler. Due to the blower, as many of you know, you can only have the fan that comes with the Procharger kit, plus a Spal fan 9" that I adapted, in order to increase the cooling factor.
Well, before messing the original 346 ci LS1, the car did not have cooling problems on the street. Now with the 383 ci, things do not look as good as before.
BTW, does any of you know what is the brand and model of the original fan equiped on the Procharger kit??? I want to know in order to get an improved fan from Spal, but I want to know to what I can scale it up!
Now, another little factor, that I thing it should not be a problem, but anyway... On the new engine, I installed a new waterpump, and the new pump the old 160°F stat did not fit, so I am waiting for a new that can fit on the new pump. In the meanwhile, I left the OEM stat that came with the pump. I do not think that this could be a crucial factor.
About the tune up from the puter, I have only change a few things on HPT, and it is about cylinder volume, fans to start earlier, and lower the timing about 2 degrees at WOT, and mid range!! After the engine assembly, and fitting into the car, the car tends to rev up to 2,000 rpm when I move it, and when going to full stop, it slows down to 1,000 rpm after a couple of seconds. That load is adding heat, for sure, but it looks that after the miles I have been driving it, the puter is learning its way (no leaks, I already checked the thing).
The car is a road racer, so, if in the traffic I can not get it cool, imagine on the track, where even before, cooling a FI car is a nightmare!!
GUYS, any comments, or advices will be greatly appreciated!!
Rodolfo Lara Pohlenz
Well guys, the problem is that my car is showing more temperature that it should, and more than it did before engine mod. The temp is now on the range of 233 and 240 °F.
The car has a new 383 ci LS1 9.5:1 (Wiseco, Callies H-I, Callies Crank), only 20 miles after new engine, plus a D1-SC at 6 psig. The car has a BeCool unit and a B&M oil cooler. Due to the blower, as many of you know, you can only have the fan that comes with the Procharger kit, plus a Spal fan 9" that I adapted, in order to increase the cooling factor.
Well, before messing the original 346 ci LS1, the car did not have cooling problems on the street. Now with the 383 ci, things do not look as good as before.
BTW, does any of you know what is the brand and model of the original fan equiped on the Procharger kit??? I want to know in order to get an improved fan from Spal, but I want to know to what I can scale it up!
Now, another little factor, that I thing it should not be a problem, but anyway... On the new engine, I installed a new waterpump, and the new pump the old 160°F stat did not fit, so I am waiting for a new that can fit on the new pump. In the meanwhile, I left the OEM stat that came with the pump. I do not think that this could be a crucial factor.
About the tune up from the puter, I have only change a few things on HPT, and it is about cylinder volume, fans to start earlier, and lower the timing about 2 degrees at WOT, and mid range!! After the engine assembly, and fitting into the car, the car tends to rev up to 2,000 rpm when I move it, and when going to full stop, it slows down to 1,000 rpm after a couple of seconds. That load is adding heat, for sure, but it looks that after the miles I have been driving it, the puter is learning its way (no leaks, I already checked the thing).
The car is a road racer, so, if in the traffic I can not get it cool, imagine on the track, where even before, cooling a FI car is a nightmare!!
GUYS, any comments, or advices will be greatly appreciated!!
Rodolfo Lara Pohlenz
05-06-2010, 03:34 PM
#2
Did you retain a crossover tube with the new engine? Is it possible that you have air in your system? If you had a 195* stat or something like that, it could keep your car running hot, not sure how much though. I have seen people ditch the procharger fan for either a single 16" Spal or (2) 12" Spal fans.
05-06-2010, 04:28 PM
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Did you retain a crossover tube with the new engine? Is it possible that you have air in your system? If you had a 195* stat or something like that, it could keep your car running hot, not sure how much though. I have seen people ditch the procharger fan for either a single 16" Spal or (2) 12" Spal fans.
Maybe I need a bigger second fan.
About air in the system...mmmm!!! I added the coolant properly I guees!!
05-06-2010, 04:33 PM
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http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/Pics/...oolantPipe.jpg
05-06-2010, 04:41 PM
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Im running a Spal 16in fan in place of the procharger one.... I believe if i remember correctly the procharger one pulls like 1600cfm and the spal is 2400 or 2600cfm.
05-06-2010, 06:19 PM
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Do you have the later LSx front crossover tube and rear block off plates?
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/Pics/...oolantPipe.jpg
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/Pics/...oolantPipe.jpg
That is correct sir!
05-06-2010, 06:23 PM
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If you look at the Procharger unit, versus the Spal unit (extreme) they look pretty much alike, based on the blade design, number of blades, etc. It is mostly the motor, what is making for the improvement, if so.
Does any body has ever had any sort of problems with air in the system??? Bubbles???
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05-06-2010, 07:15 PM
#8
Good way to check for bubbles is take the cap off start it up turn the heater on full blast and let it run untill it get warm while watching to see if bubbles start coming out. It shouldent be no bubbles at all in there. Also the t stat is killing you its a 195 and 210 is the rang for a stock ls1.
05-06-2010, 09:06 PM
#10
Check your wiring on the fans, make sure both fans are pulling air. I say this because it happened to me, Hope this helps you out.
05-07-2010, 11:28 AM
#11
I used a 16" Spal paddle fan on mine, part # 30102082, which pushes almost 2500 cfm, on a 383 D1SC. No extra fan but I am using a new style GM water pump also. I never had a problem with over heating as long as the fan was running, even with the AC on in the Texas summer heat. The temp stayed right under 200 degrees.
05-07-2010, 02:51 PM
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I used a 16" Spal paddle fan on mine, part # 30102082, which pushes almost 2500 cfm, on a 383 D1SC. No extra fan but I am using a new style GM water pump also. I never had a problem with over heating as long as the fan was running, even with the AC on in the Texas summer heat. The temp stayed right under 200 degrees.
I have already checked both fans!! And no problem!! The air is going directly to the engine!! Sucking air!! Not the contrary!!
I have a big BeCool rad, plus the big oil cooler!! Things should be going ok!!
The more I think, the more sure I have a problem with bubbles!!
05-07-2010, 02:54 PM
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Now!!
I did something I did not mention!! I removed the hoses that go into the water pump, where the thermostat is. I think those hoses are for the A/C. Due to the fact that the A/C is no longer needed in this car, I took it off this time, and used an U hose to bypass those two tubes (inlet and outlet).
If do not see a problem on that!! Do you???
I did something I did not mention!! I removed the hoses that go into the water pump, where the thermostat is. I think those hoses are for the A/C. Due to the fact that the A/C is no longer needed in this car, I took it off this time, and used an U hose to bypass those two tubes (inlet and outlet).
If do not see a problem on that!! Do you???
05-07-2010, 03:03 PM
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Now!! Could the waterpump be the problem??? I have put the rad's cap out and the see the water movement, and look like it is working!! I can not think about any other complication with it!! Do you?
05-07-2010, 03:36 PM
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Now!!
I did something I did not mention!! I removed the hoses that go into the water pump, where the thermostat is. I think those hoses are for the A/C. Due to the fact that the A/C is no longer needed in this car, I took it off this time, and used an U hose to bypass those two tubes (inlet and outlet).
If do not see a problem on that!! Do you???
I did something I did not mention!! I removed the hoses that go into the water pump, where the thermostat is. I think those hoses are for the A/C. Due to the fact that the A/C is no longer needed in this car, I took it off this time, and used an U hose to bypass those two tubes (inlet and outlet).
If do not see a problem on that!! Do you???
05-07-2010, 03:36 PM
#18
Now!!
I did something I did not mention!! I removed the hoses that go into the water pump, where the thermostat is. I think those hoses are for the A/C. Due to the fact that the A/C is no longer needed in this car, I took it off this time, and used an U hose to bypass those two tubes (inlet and outlet).
If do not see a problem on that!! Do you???
I did something I did not mention!! I removed the hoses that go into the water pump, where the thermostat is. I think those hoses are for the A/C. Due to the fact that the A/C is no longer needed in this car, I took it off this time, and used an U hose to bypass those two tubes (inlet and outlet).
If do not see a problem on that!! Do you???
Get a 160* stat on there and see what the temps do after that.
05-07-2010, 04:39 PM
#19
Rodolfo, it was good talking to you again yesterday. I still think you may have some air trapped in there. With the extreme traffic jams you have there in Mexico City, some very, very early morning drives might help to get rid of the trapped air.
I also like Aster's use of the higher cfm fan, you may have to try going with one. Bob
I also like Aster's use of the higher cfm fan, you may have to try going with one. Bob
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05-09-2010, 01:23 PM
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Rodolfo, it was good talking to you again yesterday. I still think you may have some air trapped in there. With the extreme traffic jams you have there in Mexico City, some very, very early morning drives might help to get rid of the trapped air.
I also like Aster's use of the higher cfm fan, you may have to try going with one. Bob
I also like Aster's use of the higher cfm fan, you may have to try going with one. Bob
The pleasure was all mine, my friend!!
I will take a look into the bubbles!! In the mean time, yesterday I relocated the oil cooler, taking it out of the water's cooler way.
About the fan, I will take a look into my wallet and look for some room and the purchase of a big capacity fan hahaha!!
Bob, thanks a lot for taking the time!!
Have a great day!
Rodolfo Lara Pohlenz