westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

I plan on building a front mount turbo, forged LS2 364, but am kind of new to forced induction, so I'm asking for some advice from turbo gurus. This won't be my daily, and will more than likely only be a street only car taken out on the weekends A/C, power steering etc... needs to stay. I would like to make 900WHP on a max effort tune, maybe 700 on a street tune pump gas.

I know some of you all will say go with a 370, but I don't want the extra weight of an iron block, I want to stay aluminum. I've seen from other build threads on here that a 370 and a PT88 is the "perfect" combo? Is this the same case with a 364 since it's similar in cubic inches to a 370ci? Would a 88mm turbo be a good sized turbo for a 364? If not, what would you suggest?

I've done some research, and this is what I came up with what I think I need to get this kit done. Note, I am not including drivetrain mods, because I already know I need to do all that before a turbo. I'll be getting a 9", getting my tranny built, and suspension/fuel etc.. etc... Anyways:

- piping - 6.0 truck manifolds, fabbed downpipe and other piping.
- silicone couplers
- front mount inter cooler, what size?, also don't want to cut open the front license plate cover, is it possible to have a FMIC and not cut that up?
- Griffin stand up radiator
- blow off valve - again, what do you all suggest?
- obviously need a turbo... PT88? T4 or 6 flange?
- wastegate - what size? 50mm?
- aftermarket k-member

I would like to relocate the battery to the back and mount the turbo right there where the battery used to go. Also, what intakes are you all running? Just LS6 intake, or edelbrock with sheet metal elbow?

Thanks, and I appreciate any advice/input.

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

900whp on max effort? I dont think a pt88 can accomplish that. You may have to up the cubes and the turbo size.

Theres very few ways to have a FMIC and not cut the front up. I personally like mine better when I cut it up. 3-4" should do it, depending on your IATs.


Im running a SteedSpeed BOV which is rather unorthodox as its an inline BOV. Tial makes good BOVs.

Im running a 38mm wastegate currently on 8 psi, I have no idea what size youre looking at. It mainly depends on boost level. Tial is awesome for WGs!

I would call up Rob@Modular Turbo, he answered all of my questions from the start of my build to the end.

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

Thanks for the quick reply. That's a nice FMIC you have there, I might consider doing that. Did you paint it yourself, or did it come like that? The color goes well with your car.

Going back to my goal, 900whp, obviously is just a number I threw out there, seems to me like anything above that on the street is hard to hook up so why try. I saw in 98Z28CobraKiller's thread of a PT88 and a 370, and it turned out to be a great combo for him. So I figured if I build a motor around the same cubic inches as a 370, with the same sized turbo, it might yield the same results.

Again, any advice/input is appreciated.

dimetweaker

iTrader: (1)

you can probably hit your goals with that turbo, looky here https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ame-motor.html

ModularTurbo

iTrader: (14)

call me I'll help

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

I have yet to push my PT88 hard. Have only seen 19-20 psi so far. The main reason being that the stock 98 PCM limits my ability to accurately tune fueling above 15 psi. So basically I have been fudging it. I only did this in order to quickly reach my 8 sec street car goal. The car has been sitting for weeks. My new AEM PCM should be in hopefully within the month. I think she's got a 8.6 pass left in her. As far as HP capability, I have to be over 900 rwhp to get 153 mph in the 1/4 @ 3800# race weight so your goals are very acheivable and there is no real difference to seak of between a 364 and a 370 ci motor so it should work fine provided you select the proper parts and spec out the proper supporting mods.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

Why didn't you switch to a 99 and up PCM? Its not that much involved in redoing the harness and pcm's go for dirt cheap on here all day long. Then you still could've put in your AEM after.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Didnt want to put Steve thru the trouble (as I dont do wires) and have to end up doing it twice. It was only in the last couple of weeks that I decided on the AEM. I was really wanting to hold out for the MS3 with the new MS3X board but it is still vaporware and I refuse to delay for something that is totally outside my control. Availability is king. As it turns out, I have to switch to the 99 PCM pinout in order to run the AEM anyways.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

It figures they would pin it for the 99 and up pcm's

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

This problem with the tuning on 98 PCMs doesn't exist on 01-02 PCMs correct? Do you drive yours on the street very often? If so, what's the drivability like?

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

97-98 vettes and 98 fbodies all had this junk PCM. It has a few less KEY features than the 99+ PCM. One such limitation is that the custom OS's only allow for a 2 bar MAP sensor (roughly 15 psi of boost) on the VE table. Another is no real time tuning. Add these short comings to all the other short comings of running a stock PCM and it just isn't the correct way to make 900+ RWHP IMO. Most people that disagree are those that haven't seen just how green the grass is on the other side of the hill.

Now that it's summer time in Florida and it can rain at any moment, the car sits ALOT. Getting caught in the rain on drag radials and no A/C is VERY unpleasant. As far as street manners are concerned, she's a dream to drive. Tune is perfect except for sometimes she'll stall on me on a warm start when I throw it in reverse to back out of a parking spot. Reverse apparently wants a different amount of idle air (due to more load) that I cant provide as the PCM has no idea what gear the shifter is in. Idles at 800 rpm and is pretty quiet. I am waiting on a friend to make me a plate and weld a flange on the end of the 4" side of my exhaust. Then it will be full stealth.

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

I am building mine now....let me tell you, putting the turbo in the battery location is a pain in the ***. I have the old hi-flo turbo headers that put the turbo in that location, it looks sweet there and the headers look sweet. I am able to keep Everything + the ac in the stock locations. U might wanna look into them if I can find one. With the turbo in that location there is a ton of problems with the body being directly in the way of everything. I have to cut the the bottom of the battery box out because of the filter tube. I do get to use my stock radiator and fans though. As far as the intercooler this stock kit has the ic mounted verticaly and the bumper stays mint, u should look into that.