JD_Z28

iTrader: (19)

Do you guys think it's necessary to o-ring the heads (317 heads) if you're planning to make 1k rwhp? Would the new ZR1/LS9 MLS head gaskets (7 layers) and ARP studs do the job? The build is going to be a built LS2 402 with twin turbos running about 16.5 lbs of boost. I was considering the L19 head studs but after doing some research about them I decided to pass. I've heard the L19's can become brittle if exposed to certain moisture.

Also, does anyone know at what point an alluminum block will start getting cylinder wall distortion/expansion? This motor will not have an engine girdle.

Big_Bird_WS6

iTrader: (7)

Look up ERL. call and talk to Sean. i plan on pushing 1k wheel. have normal head studs ( advise from shawn and Virgin speed) and have ERL darton sleeved block with DMperformance main cap girlde and dowel pins.

355TurboLT1

iTrader: (11)

Plenty of guys have run about the same boost and had little issue with pushing water. Over 1000rwhp and 20 psi or so is when you start seeing issues. The best solution is a 6 bolt and o-ring. I went with ERL and decided to have my six bolt LS2 o-ringed, as I plan to run 25 to 30psi. As far as L19's go, thats really the only way to roll, Its what the big boys run. A little water shouldn't do anything to them. You could get away fine with regular studs, but personally I over build everything, but then again I'm shooting for 1300hp, so it goes with the territory.

Call Sean at ERL and discuss your build. He will get you all set up. The cylinder wall distortion will be a non issue with ERL's sleeves. Girdles are not needed at this power level just billet caps with dowels and ARP main studs. When you start approaching big power(1,500-2,000 hp then a girdle and filling the block is usually mandatory.

JD_Z28

iTrader: (19)

Great info. So I'm assuming that I'm probably going to need to do some stronger sleeves for my goal?

355TurboLT1

iTrader: (11)

Yes. Personally I would send it to ERL and have the sleeves updated and even look into the superdeck I system. ERL has done more with the Aluminum LS blocks than anyone else. The only draw back to the L19's with orings is that you have to retorque but at this level its to be expected and it's more a function of the orings than the studs. Run it, retorque and be done with it. Did you call sean yet? Tell him you talked to me. He will get you squared away.


On a side note, let me know next time you will be out at the pavillions. I would like to check out your setup. I just got my car back from Forrester Racing. 10 point cage, through the floor subframe connectors and Sparco racing seats. Everything looks badass!

Big_Bird_WS6

iTrader: (7)

^^^ if you are going to send to sean. ( and if i could do it again) i would jsut have them do 1/2" studs instead of the factory size.

JD_Z28

iTrader: (19)

I haven't called him yet. I'll give Sean a call later today and see what he recommends. I'll definately send you a PM next time I plan on going out to Pavs.

JD_Z28

iTrader: (19)

After doing further research it looks like I might pass on the o-ring and just do 1/2 inch studs. Do you guys think 1/2 studs w/LS9 head gaskets will do the job?

HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

Your tune is what's going to dictate whether or not your hardware holds up at those levels. With stock GM casting heads, the issue isn't really the size of the head studs but instead the issue is the actual head deck thickness. Any time you get over about 16 psi with stock GM casting heads you risk pushing water/gaskets. A spot on tune could save you, but to really be "safe" you're going to want an after market head with a thicker deck.

With that said, I've ran 241 heads with MLS gaskets and 16 psi for 3 years with only ARP head bolts and was fine. This year I'm running 317s with upwards of 19 psi and don't anticipate any problems. It's all in the tune.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

L19's are not required depending on setup, we're using standard material fasteners from ARP 1/2" in the main holes and 3/8" in the secondary slugs. We made 1200rwhp through a powerglide at 13# of boost and routinely run more than 35#. There are many ways to skin this cat, I'm trying to find the one with the least headaches.

If I were to build a street car, it would have a bunch of compression to get the turbos lit off and a strong headgasket to hold all the cylinder pressure I could throw at it. If I were building a street setup....

10.5:1 427(Steel rods, Callies Crank, JE Pistons)
twin billet turbos
20-25# of boost
93 octane and methanol that kicks on at 3-4psi
in a Mazda Rx7(93-94)