turbo spark pulug and gap
01-09-2013, 02:19 PM
#30
Got an Idea for you. Every plug is gonna react different to your setup/psi/ compression/elevation. Since plugs are so cheap go buy a couple 2/3 different sets with different heat ranges. Gap them all around 28-30 make sure they are all the same. Inbetween a couple runs switch them out unless your plugs are a PITA to get to.
Be sure you have the tune close before you start switching the plugs out. Check for adv and disadv of each one like knock, hp/tq #s, driveability, color and any other misc things a good tuner would check for.
This is just an idea and I'm by no means an expert on this but only seems a good way to make a right choice on the plugs.
Be sure you have the tune close before you start switching the plugs out. Check for adv and disadv of each one like knock, hp/tq #s, driveability, color and any other misc things a good tuner would check for.
This is just an idea and I'm by no means an expert on this but only seems a good way to make a right choice on the plugs.
thats what i would do, i have used tr6 and br7ef and even stock plugs!
on our turbo truck stock plugs couldnt handle any more than 10-12psi it seems
then we went tr6 at 24 gap to 21lbs
on my fairmont i go back and forth between tr6 and br7ef, im liking the tr6 better, for over 20lbs i need to gap under 25
just my experience
01-09-2013, 04:27 PM
#34
br7s are usually damn close to 25-28 right out of the box usually works good for up to 20psi like said, ill +1 stamp that lol
if your car runs like **** with them rough idle and whatnot that isnt a mechanical issue, try the tr6's
if your car runs like **** with them rough idle and whatnot that isnt a mechanical issue, try the tr6's
01-10-2013, 01:25 PM
#38
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I ask anyone to give a reason to run a tr6 plug over a 7-8 heat range plug on a forced induction car. I always say start cold and work your way back down to a hotter plug. What some don't realize some setups I've done require a 7 plug NA.
It's all going to depend on compression (dynamic and static), boost levels, charge temp and fuel being used to determine plug choice but 9/10 times all of the 500-700hp cars end up with a 7-8 plug to keep the heat range happy. Anyone that can properly read plugs can tell if a plug is too cold or too hot. As power and cylinder pressure goes up naturally so does heat which will require colder plugs. Plugs aren't expensive so I ask why take the risk of detonation with a hot plug in your power adder car?
It's all going to depend on compression (dynamic and static), boost levels, charge temp and fuel being used to determine plug choice but 9/10 times all of the 500-700hp cars end up with a 7-8 plug to keep the heat range happy. Anyone that can properly read plugs can tell if a plug is too cold or too hot. As power and cylinder pressure goes up naturally so does heat which will require colder plugs. Plugs aren't expensive so I ask why take the risk of detonation with a hot plug in your power adder car?
