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I’m pretty new to this stuff and the LS series engines so I need some help. What would you guys do if you were me? I have a 2008 LY6/4L80E that’s going into an 87 grand national. Plans for the car is going to be mainly street driven, not so much a weekend warrior but something I can get in and drive anywhere and not be worried about a hopped up race car that going to be a pain to drive.
I’m going to most likely build my own headers or may just use the truck manifold turned forward. So here’s what I need help with. What would you guys recommend for a turbo, BOV, fuel system ect. I won’t do the turbo right away I want to get the motor in and make sure everything runs good and then go from there.
i plan on doing samething.. the ly6 is already in my chevelle running..just saving up for turbo turbo stuff... i plan on 60lb injectors.. already have a single walbro 255..might put in double.. stock ls3 rails.. for fuel system.. or stock truck ones will work fine. im wanting a nic 76 mm or 88mm turbo..88 might be tad big.. owell.. i already have a 44mm wastegate from my last turbo 5.3.. i plan on doing a log type manifold.. keep driver side stock manifold on.. routing it into a log custom made on passenger side. for hot side..cleaner look.. i wanna boost the stock cam vvt.. but i dont kno bout the vvt springs..somewhere i read that there made just for the vvt motor.. and if u boost a motor u have to upgrade springs..and that would mess with vvt is what im thinking..i could be wrong.. but i already have a ls3 cam im probly going to stick in there when im ready to boost it..
Stock manifolds
LS6 springs or PAC 1218 springs
Aftermarket pushrods
70-76mm or 60-1 twins
Turbo timer or water cooled CHRA
FP gauge in dash
WB o2
Single walbro will depend on boost/HP level.
For a single, plan on replacing it every few years as a maintenance item.
A/R will depend on how much boost you plan on.
65mm for twins, 68mm for single
__________________ 71 Nova - 370 w-GT4788R - collecting parts
4L80E CircleD & D60 in the works
2000 AWD S10 project - Mamo built 416 on the stand & 4L80E w/ torque arm rear setup in the works.
def 255 pump,, t-76 will be fine.. turbonetics would be nice if affordable for u.. certinly not for me.. blow offs im using cheap ebay ones 2 of them,, 30 bucks a pop.. work fine. depends on how much money u want to spend..
Like most people that don't have alot of money i want to be on the cheap as much as possible. I won't go cheap on a good turbo though i think that's going to be the biggest $$$ of this build for sure. The turbo's probably going to cost more then the engine and tranny though I'm sure the turbo's one of those "you get what you pay for" deals.
it's not a LSX build but I put a 62-1 turbonetics turbo on my 6.8L V10 Ford Excursion. It was installed the same way chevellepowered plans on doing his turbo. I had a Snyapse 50mm WG, single 255 pump, 39lb cobra injectors. My tuner said the way the numbers were coming up with the maf redings and injector PW/DC compaired to the lightnings he tuned It should have been making around 500WHP with 8lb I was only turning it to 5000rpm though. Here is a couple nice Youtube videos.
You want at least a 76mm. Preferably with a 75mm S turbine.
The 68mm turbine will be insta boost.
You have room for a BW S400-80mm which will give you more turbine options.
__________________ 71 Nova - 370 w-GT4788R - collecting parts
4L80E CircleD & D60 in the works
2000 AWD S10 project - Mamo built 416 on the stand & 4L80E w/ torque arm rear setup in the works.
You want at least a 76mm. Preferably with a 75mm S turbine.
The 68mm turbine will be insta boost.
You have room for a BW S400-80mm which will give you more turbine options.
Other then knowing how a turbo works i don't know much about different company models (garret, turonetics, presicion) I know the 76MM is pretty common from what i read on here. Looking on Ebay for varying price looks like you can spend any where from 500 to 2K. Being that it's going into a grand national as far as the I/C set up i'm going to order an aftermarket set up with the I/C and piping so that much of it should bolt up.