View Poll Results: how much rwhp is too much to be fun on the street?
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what rwhp/rwtq is to much for the street? when is it not fun any more?
#1
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what rwhp/rwtq is to much for the street? when is it not fun any more?
like the title says...what rwhp/rwtq is to much for the street? when is it not fun any more? this thread may sound stupid to some, but i thought it might be interesting to hear opinions from people with experience with high power street cars. the highest powered cars i have driven on the street were a 472whp maggied 05 gto and my 480whp 02 camaro (and i still wanted a lot more), but lately i have been hearing a lot of 700-800whp guys talking about how there cars just aren't fun on the street any more (i am assuming this is due to traction issues). the reason i am asking is because i have recently saved enough money to finally do an LSX/F1C build for my camaro but now im wondering if it's a waste. i am by no means rich so this is a big decision for me. i am mostly aiming this thread towards m6 guys(because i am keeping my car a 6speed) but auto guys opinions are welcome too. i understand that their are more factors then just power and their is no certain level where things change but this is just to get an idea. i also understand that the answer is based on individual opinions and everyone has different likes. that's why i'm asking for your personal opinion and an explanation of why. the reason i posted this in the FI section is because 99% of the high hp street cars are FI. thanks
P.S. if u think this is a stupid topic please just go to the next thread instead of telling me what a f***ing idiot you think i am for posting it. im just looking for info on the topic
P.S. if u think this is a stupid topic please just go to the next thread instead of telling me what a f***ing idiot you think i am for posting it. im just looking for info on the topic
Last edited by sixpack_2_go; 09-10-2010 at 11:11 PM.
#2
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Here's my two cents. Take it for what you will. A centri street car is going to be way more docile than a turbo street car for the same power level. Boost builds with rpm on a centri. It's more predictible and easier to tame in a street scenerio. On the flip side you can just turn the boost down on a turbo car to be more street friendly. I say do your F-1A/C and use a larger pulley initially. Work up to what you are comfortable with.
#3
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I have only hit about 400rwhp so far. It is a lot of fun, BUT it is hard to get traction on street tires, especially in the rain. I would have to say that the power limit would be relative to the car and the person driving.
If you can tolerate driving at 30mph in the rain with a 1,000hp car, and you have it set up to hook decent on a normal day. Cool beans.
But if you are planning to go with boost, you can manage the side effects a little better. Keep your foot out of it and usually you can drive fairly normal. With a LSX/F1 I think you would be ok with the right set up, you could even drive it daily if you want.
IMO, for a daily driver I'd stay to probably no more than 400-500rwhp, for a 2-3 day a week kind of car, I wouldn't mind busting it all the way to 1500rwhp.
It's late and my brain is fried but I guess what I'm getting to it, what do you want from the car? Weekend hotrod, or hotrod DD?
If you can tolerate driving at 30mph in the rain with a 1,000hp car, and you have it set up to hook decent on a normal day. Cool beans.
But if you are planning to go with boost, you can manage the side effects a little better. Keep your foot out of it and usually you can drive fairly normal. With a LSX/F1 I think you would be ok with the right set up, you could even drive it daily if you want.
IMO, for a daily driver I'd stay to probably no more than 400-500rwhp, for a 2-3 day a week kind of car, I wouldn't mind busting it all the way to 1500rwhp.
It's late and my brain is fried but I guess what I'm getting to it, what do you want from the car? Weekend hotrod, or hotrod DD?
#4
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I can say I am aiming for 600hp someday... I expected to have more on motor alone but my goal is between 600 and 700hp at the wheel. I don't want nos I want that power anytime I call for it.
#5
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My "almost" 500 RWHP....is pathetic. Its a joke. The fun wore off in 2 months and I wanted more. I know someone with a 1,200+ RWHP TT Heffner Viper. It is not too much power if you learn to put it down. Obviously, if you smack it to the floor from a 50mph roll, your gonna blow the tires off...no ****. It drives like a complete daily driver if you drive it normally and don't want to race it. Its just like any other car with different power levels, they have to be driven and managed differently, thats all. There's also about 50 other cars around here that have 1,000+ RWHP....they all have alot of fun with their cars too, they don't wreck them.
Tool much is when YOU, the individual cannot handle it anymore.
And I'm sure the hundreds of NRE customers are having alot of fun with their 1,000-2,500 hp street cars too...........
.
Tool much is when YOU, the individual cannot handle it anymore.
And I'm sure the hundreds of NRE customers are having alot of fun with their 1,000-2,500 hp street cars too...........
.
#6
My Mustang put down 529 rwhp, at 3000 lbs race weight, it is all over the dang road and can be a little dangerous, Instant boost, awesome torque. However it just doesn't work on the street.
My Camaro with around 800 rwhp, 408 h/c, pt88 at 15 psi. Is a blast to drive, the turbo doesn't make boost till 4300 rpms which means it hooks and books. It's a real monster and the car works on the street, digs very well and can roll race right along side liter bikes.
Hoping with new fuel system and more going from 15 to 20 - 22 psi that I can feel 1000 rwhp on the street and make it work just as well as 800 does.
My Camaro with around 800 rwhp, 408 h/c, pt88 at 15 psi. Is a blast to drive, the turbo doesn't make boost till 4300 rpms which means it hooks and books. It's a real monster and the car works on the street, digs very well and can roll race right along side liter bikes.
Hoping with new fuel system and more going from 15 to 20 - 22 psi that I can feel 1000 rwhp on the street and make it work just as well as 800 does.
#7
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Im pushing 550+ and love every second of it..There are traction issues but im still on the 10 bolt so its ok..When it comes time to race i do burn a lot of rubber but its fun to come past a guy after he has put 3-4 cars on you out of the hole..especially those mustangs. Next summer when i get the rest of my supporting mods i hope to put down 700+rwhp and still drive the car on the street. Ge yourself a good set of tires(nitto nt05r/hoosier/mts) and you should be fine. just my .02..And if i were you i would do the f1 and lsx. I wish i would have gone f1 with my built 347 but who knows maybe i will in the winter. Goodluck!!!
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#8
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I started with a Vortech G-trim kit and somewhere in the 450 rwhp range and kept wanting more (T-trim then Ysi). I can say now I don't want anymore power, I'm happy where I am. I still need a 9 sec. slip, hopefully I get that soon.
#9
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It COMPLETLY depends on the tires on the car. When my car was 41X rwhp but had shitty 275's out back, it was flat out retarded. Would stick until like 3rd gear. But after I picked up the 275/60's it is VERY fun. Even with the 570rwhp, it will spin up 1st, but 2nd grabs. Very managable.
#10
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If you have a 1000 rwhp car you are not just going to drive it like a daily driver. If you built a 1000rwhp you are going to race it at the track and on the street. So if you are going to race on the street it has to be set up to do so. There are guys that are making 1000+ and putting it to the ground. For example the yellow banana in the cash days videos. From what I see in those vids thats a car that looks like fun to drive on the street. To say traction is your problem and its not fun is absurd. There is too much technology in tires and suspension these days to overcome traction issues. You cannot expect to put a set of Goodyears on the back and for the car to have traction.
#11
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I'm not some Mega HP lsx but I do have a Duramax Dually that is very strong. I'd say it is over 400 whp and 900 tq. Reason I posted is my tq is on par with a strong boosted lsx. In the rain from anything under 50 when in downshifts and the turbo spools it spins bad. My point is build what you want, you will make adjustments to drive and control it in all conditions. I've driven 170 whp liter bikes in rain on race tires, 600whp cars on slicks and radials, as long as you're not a complette dumbass and are aware you have a very powerful vehicle to control you will be fine.
#12
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I have a turbo car in the 800rwTQ range that drives almost like an oem platform until the boost comes on. The suspension is all BMR, SPOHN, and QA1. It actually gets good MPG under normal driving. Is it too much on the street? for me, kinda... I am a wus At the track it is fun, but it will still spin sometimes going into third at a round 100 when the car starts to push a lot of air. Trap speeds 135 to 140. On the highway spin is a way of life, but there is still plenty of traction to take out most bikes (I love to do that). I guess my real issue is I live in Oklahoma and the roads/highways are built for 4x4 trucks, not cars. I also have a turbo that spools like right now with very little wait. At least with a centri your power will be a bit more predictable.
#14
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I say if u have the money might as well build it for 1000 HP because its much easier and cheaper to down tune it if it scares the crap out of u . but if u only build it for 600 HP u will most likely be unhappy after a while and want more and end up spending more money in the long run.
Hell if I would've saved the money from my last three builds I could have a nice 1000 HP car now (btw my last build was an 640 HP h/c/I/nitrous build that I was board with after a few months)
Hell if I would've saved the money from my last three builds I could have a nice 1000 HP car now (btw my last build was an 640 HP h/c/I/nitrous build that I was board with after a few months)
#15
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So many variables. Turbos have edge in terms of control. With good controller like my eboost 2 you can ramp up boost by rpm, time or gear. I got gear ramping option off board member haven't installed it yet but it should be great. You can try various add on traction control setups like racelogic one. Tires can make a big difference as well.
And of course suspension mods.
Centrifugal do build boost with rpm which can help for sure. Roots types are more violent and harder to hook up with their wicked down low torque production.
In 1st and 2nd and part of third on nittos with my car when it was six speed manual with 3.54 gears with the 408 and boost pretty low around 7.5psi I could still spin off the nittos in 1st,2nd and a lot of third.
Now with car as auto with 3400 stall and still 3.54 gears its worse if anything for traction.I have been running toyo tq drag radials and they aren't that great I don't think even at current maybe 550rwhp level. I do have some et street radials going to try out and will also be trying out some new nitto drag radials the ones above the 555R nto5R or whatever. I am hoping to start using boost ramping by rpm or gear and am considering that racelogic variable traction system. I have already lots of suspension mods but have to dial them in.
Realistically 500 or so engine hp on street is a pretty good amount of power. You can pretty much go wot and hook with at least drag radials on the street. Past that and you start to not be able to go wot in those lower gears like 1st,2nd and its a fine line between giving it too much throttle and spinning and not spinning. And having car break free at 80mph can really pucker up the old @$$hole!
The vettes have advantages over the f bodies with their better traction control setups.
I didn't even get factory traction control option in my car and wish I did .It would be handy sometimes.
Big big power cars on the street are mainly only good for going like from 80 to 200mph type of thing. Quick story. Other day was merging onto highway .Honda boy was right on my tail at start of merge. I hit it pretty hard and was surprised to see honda boy right on my bumper still up to around 70mph. I was of course spinning the tires off in 1st,2nd..some of third..So no idea what mods he had if he was turbo ,etc but it didnt' matter my car was slow due to the spinning . I did some practice 60fts with my toyo drag radials and couldn't get under a 2.19 on the street with them. Tried different pressures no real success.I didn't set my shocks and my torque arm angle was likely way off.
I then ran a few 1/4 mile passes and got 12.25 at 125 with 2.29 60ft. Should be a 10 second car with good 60ft at track never tracked it yet but shows what fairly big power on the street can be like. If you can't hook it well...you can lose to much slower cars.
But it is cool doing those infinite burnouts.
And of course suspension mods.
Centrifugal do build boost with rpm which can help for sure. Roots types are more violent and harder to hook up with their wicked down low torque production.
In 1st and 2nd and part of third on nittos with my car when it was six speed manual with 3.54 gears with the 408 and boost pretty low around 7.5psi I could still spin off the nittos in 1st,2nd and a lot of third.
Now with car as auto with 3400 stall and still 3.54 gears its worse if anything for traction.I have been running toyo tq drag radials and they aren't that great I don't think even at current maybe 550rwhp level. I do have some et street radials going to try out and will also be trying out some new nitto drag radials the ones above the 555R nto5R or whatever. I am hoping to start using boost ramping by rpm or gear and am considering that racelogic variable traction system. I have already lots of suspension mods but have to dial them in.
Realistically 500 or so engine hp on street is a pretty good amount of power. You can pretty much go wot and hook with at least drag radials on the street. Past that and you start to not be able to go wot in those lower gears like 1st,2nd and its a fine line between giving it too much throttle and spinning and not spinning. And having car break free at 80mph can really pucker up the old @$$hole!
The vettes have advantages over the f bodies with their better traction control setups.
I didn't even get factory traction control option in my car and wish I did .It would be handy sometimes.
Big big power cars on the street are mainly only good for going like from 80 to 200mph type of thing. Quick story. Other day was merging onto highway .Honda boy was right on my tail at start of merge. I hit it pretty hard and was surprised to see honda boy right on my bumper still up to around 70mph. I was of course spinning the tires off in 1st,2nd..some of third..So no idea what mods he had if he was turbo ,etc but it didnt' matter my car was slow due to the spinning . I did some practice 60fts with my toyo drag radials and couldn't get under a 2.19 on the street with them. Tried different pressures no real success.I didn't set my shocks and my torque arm angle was likely way off.
I then ran a few 1/4 mile passes and got 12.25 at 125 with 2.29 60ft. Should be a 10 second car with good 60ft at track never tracked it yet but shows what fairly big power on the street can be like. If you can't hook it well...you can lose to much slower cars.
But it is cool doing those infinite burnouts.
#17
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My car has 600+hp and its a bit of a chore to get it to hook on the roads around here....but its hella fun from a 30 punch. I would want a couple more hundred hp before i called it quits...
#18
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They are a blast to drive street/strip. "Too Much HP Is Almost Enough"
Last edited by speedster94; 09-11-2010 at 07:12 PM.
#19
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Every project I go overboard on I end up selling for 50% (or less) of what I have into it. That's how I justify my builds - know that when I am sick of that game and get out of it I don't mind the money I threw at the project just to move on to something else. http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/sr...ch/gr_eek2.gif
#20
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And my response to the OP. Mine are fun but not real usable! Fun yes, usable no!