Water Vapor Collection system
09-20-2010, 01:36 PM
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Water Vapor Collection system Theres been a couple threads on here concerning stock vapor or steam vent setup and how it can be improved. I know Kurt Urban sells a very nice setup but its hard to merit 200$ for most people. Im thinking about picking up a 4port vacuum block like this:
Then tapping 4 of the block off plates or picking up the ones Kurt sells for 10$ a piece, and tapping them. Then running them to this vac block, positioned vertically. Then run a hose from top of the vac block to the radiator.
It wont be as nice looking at Kurt's since I wont be using steel braided lines but this should work, in theory.
Then tapping 4 of the block off plates or picking up the ones Kurt sells for 10$ a piece, and tapping them. Then running them to this vac block, positioned vertically. Then run a hose from top of the vac block to the radiator.
It wont be as nice looking at Kurt's since I wont be using steel braided lines but this should work, in theory.
09-22-2010, 02:30 AM
#2
I run a similar setup. i just tapped my heads with 1/16" NPT threads and used -4 fittings on all four corners. then ran all four to a Nitrous Outlet distrobution block. then from there to a -4 fitting located in the top of the water pump. it has been working great so far and i havent had any problems with it.
09-23-2010, 07:22 AM
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it doesnt need to be mounted vertically.
But putting the outlet into the top of the radiator is stupid, unless the radiator has some way of venting air.
if it doesnt, all that will happen is you'll create an air space in the radiator, causing a massive drop in cooling ability.
It MUST go to the air void within the header/expansion tank. Just look at any OE cooling system. They all vent to that location.
But putting the outlet into the top of the radiator is stupid, unless the radiator has some way of venting air.
if it doesnt, all that will happen is you'll create an air space in the radiator, causing a massive drop in cooling ability.
It MUST go to the air void within the header/expansion tank. Just look at any OE cooling system. They all vent to that location.
09-23-2010, 12:14 PM
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That should work well, and if the engine is apart you can tap the bleed holes in the head and get away with not using the adapter for cost savings. Keep the lines running uphill if possible and the single outlet that bleeds the highest point in the collection system and the air will be forced out!
Looks like a nice solution!
Kurt
Looks like a nice solution!
Kurt
09-23-2010, 12:23 PM
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it doesnt need to be mounted vertically.
But putting the outlet into the top of the radiator is stupid, unless the radiator has some way of venting air.
if it doesnt, all that will happen is you'll create an air space in the radiator, causing a massive drop in cooling ability.
It MUST go to the air void within the header/expansion tank. Just look at any OE cooling system. They all vent to that location.
But putting the outlet into the top of the radiator is stupid, unless the radiator has some way of venting air.
if it doesnt, all that will happen is you'll create an air space in the radiator, causing a massive drop in cooling ability.
It MUST go to the air void within the header/expansion tank. Just look at any OE cooling system. They all vent to that location.
09-23-2010, 12:23 PM
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The return is most common in the top of the radiator on the suction side. If you are street driving it, the common recovery type system used on production cars in the 80's and 90's will clear the air out of the radiator although most race type cars use a open "puke tank" type system and this also works well.
Kurt
Kurt
it doesnt need to be mounted vertically.
But putting the outlet into the top of the radiator is stupid, unless the radiator has some way of venting air.
if it doesnt, all that will happen is you'll create an air space in the radiator, causing a massive drop in cooling ability.
It MUST go to the air void within the header/expansion tank. Just look at any OE cooling system. They all vent to that location.
But putting the outlet into the top of the radiator is stupid, unless the radiator has some way of venting air.
if it doesnt, all that will happen is you'll create an air space in the radiator, causing a massive drop in cooling ability.
It MUST go to the air void within the header/expansion tank. Just look at any OE cooling system. They all vent to that location.
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12-02-2010, 03:28 PM
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I am buying one of Kurt's systems right now. If you add up all the braided hoses, fittings, etc., you would not pay any less and his setup is very tight. Not to mention, I rather support someone who goes through all the trouble to make such nice items for people like us so we can just point, click, buy it, and bolt it on without all the headaches. Not to mention, Kurt is always accessible to communicate with and that is why I would seriously consider having him build my engine in the future.
01-22-2012, 07:55 AM
#18
I'm reviving this from the dead.... but it is a good thread to revive.
Is this setup, Kurt's in particular, something that could help save the ringlands on the back cylinders?
I have a FAST intake, and as such, had to block off the rear vent tubes, and last weekend I think I cracked #7's ringland.
Kurt, I'd like to hear your thoughts on this as I'm going to go with a forged shortblock, but I want to avoid this situation from ever happening again.
Thanks
Is this setup, Kurt's in particular, something that could help save the ringlands on the back cylinders?
I have a FAST intake, and as such, had to block off the rear vent tubes, and last weekend I think I cracked #7's ringland.
Kurt, I'd like to hear your thoughts on this as I'm going to go with a forged shortblock, but I want to avoid this situation from ever happening again.
Thanks
01-22-2012, 08:18 AM
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The thing that can happen is air gets trapped in the rear of the heads and insulates the backside of the combustion chamber on the rear cylinder causing hot spots. I believe this can lead to broken parts. I believe this is one problem that can cause issues in race engines and it's aggravated by running reduced water flow and water instead of coolant. I believe you also need to watch your water flow as the engine output gets into 4 digits.
Kurt
Kurt
I'm reviving this from the dead.... but it is a good thread to revive.
Is this setup, Kurt's in particular, something that could help save the ringlands on the back cylinders?
I have a FAST intake, and as such, had to block off the rear vent tubes, and last weekend I think I cracked #7's ringland.
Kurt, I'd like to hear your thoughts on this as I'm going to go with a forged shortblock, but I want to avoid this situation from ever happening again.
Thanks
Is this setup, Kurt's in particular, something that could help save the ringlands on the back cylinders?
I have a FAST intake, and as such, had to block off the rear vent tubes, and last weekend I think I cracked #7's ringland.
Kurt, I'd like to hear your thoughts on this as I'm going to go with a forged shortblock, but I want to avoid this situation from ever happening again.
Thanks
01-22-2012, 08:41 AM
#20
The thing that can happen is air gets trapped in the rear of the heads and insulates the backside of the combustion chamber on the rear cylinder causing hot spots. I believe this can lead to broken parts. I believe this is one problem that can cause issues in race engines and it's aggravated by running reduced water flow and water instead of coolant. I believe you also need to watch your water flow as the engine output gets into 4 digits.
Kurt
Kurt
