Power adder opinion help?
12-10-2010, 01:38 AM
#1
Power adder opinion help? im wanting a power adder for my car its an AUTOMATIC 2000 ss camaro completely stock im wanting to know what would be the best out of supercharger, turbo, or procharge for an automatic and what would i need to get for the adder thanks upfront..
12-10-2010, 06:11 AM
#2
http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1GJ20...F-Body-Kit.htm
$6620.00 shipped for the ProCharger D-1SC system in the above link. The only thing you will need is to either get a mail order tune or a dyno tune.
https://www.brutespeed.com/prochargers.htm
I have put together quite a bit of information at the link here that may help you out.
1. Subframe Connectors - Absolutely necessary to keep your F Body from twisting and stretching. I have seen too many of these cars lose their door to fender gaps from having gone too long without subframe connectors. Subframe connectors will make the car handle better, you'll get fewer squeaks and the car will get better traction. We use BMR's box tube subframe connectors on most of our builds. BMR subframe connectors will not get in the way of exhaust systems, where a lot of the diamond style subframe connectors will cause interference when trying to run true duals. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-SFC00...C001SFC004.htm
2. Torque Arm - BMR, Global West and Spohn all make torque arms that relocate the front mount off of the transmission by relocating the front mount back behind the transmission. The relocation of the front mount relieves the stress from the tailshaft of the transmission that the torque arm places on it, as a result of trying to contain the rear-end and it's rotational stresses. The stock torque arm is a stamped piece of sheetmetal that has broken apart for many people, and it sometimes takes out the driveshaft with it when it goes. By relocating the front mount of the torque arm behind the transmission, the geometry of the rear suspension becomes much better and really aids in hooking up the rear suspension. While replacing the torque arm, check the transmission mount, as the stock torque arm places a huge load on the mount, and the mount breaks quite often when using the factory torque arm. The adjustability of these aftermarket torque arms allows the user to adjust the pinion angle of the rear suspension which aids in finding traction. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-82-02...hru-XTA001.htm
3. Moser Nine Inch - Sooner or later the weak 7.5" Chevy S-10 derived 10 bolt is going to break. I wouldn't waste any money into attempting to build up the 10 bolt, it just doesn't work. There isn't one strong point to the stocker. For those of you with a six speed transmission, the 10 bolt has broken on many M6 cars with stock power. Expect the worse to happen... 3:75 gears in the Moser rear-end is a good compromise, especially when adding a lot of power to the engine. http://shop.brutespeed.com/82-02-F-B...ar-Ends_c5.htm
I recommend the 9 inch rear for the higher horsepowered cars, and for those who have a manual transmission. Here is why.
Put a 12 bolt into a early Chevelle, Nova, Camaro, etc and you can beat the crap out of it, and not hurt anything. Put one into one of our cars with a torque arm, make a couple 4000 to 5000 dragstrip launches, and I can just about guarantee you'll pick up gear noise. If it is a drag only car, you'll never know or care about the gear noise. Drive your car home from the track, and the noise will drive you nuts. I feel the torque arm stresses the 12 bolt housing, causing distortion. We have never seen this happen with the 9 inch housing.
You can order a Moser 9 inch with ABS, or with ABS/TCS if you also have traction control. If you have ABS and you decide not to get the rear with ABS, the info below may be of some help.
Without ABS hooked up on the rear end you will not have ABS on the front brakes either. ABS stands for automatic braking system, without it you will be back to old school threshold braking, which I prefer. With old school brakes if you stand on the pedal, you're going to lock up the brakes, which can result in a magnificent looking skid mark, or you could end up in a ditch... With old school brakes you learn where the point of lock up is, which is how hard you want to apply the brakes in a panic situation.
With your ABS disconnected you will have a light staring at you on the dash, there is no way to tune it out, either live with it, pull the bulb out or put some black tape over it. You can remove the ABS assembly, which will remove 14 lbs of wight from the car. It will clean it up so it looks better, but you'll still have that stupid light to contend with.
4. Driveshaft - The stock GM driveshaft have broken for many enthusiast, both the steel and the 3.0" aluminum GM driveshafts are fairly weak. I recommend an aftermarket PST 3.5" aluminum driveshaft with a 1350 Yoke with a 1350 U Joint. Combined with the Moser 9 inch with their supplied 1350 yoke, you will have a strong drivetrain. I sell the PST 3.5" aluminum driveshafts, which are rated at 1000 hp. They come with a lifetime warranty, a deal you just can't beat. http://shop.brutespeed.com/PST-35-In...Driveshaft.htm
5. Clutch and pressure plate - I recommend the Spec Stage 3+ clutch and pressure plate. Expect some chatter for the first 500 miles, then it will be pretty smooth. I would also add the '01-'02 slave cylinder for the older models, and do the "drill mod" to the master cylinder. Do a search for the drill mod, and you will see what it entails. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Spec-Clut...LS1-F-Body.htm
At this point I believe the suspension is capable off supporting a lot of horsepower, and you can go straight to item 14.
For those of you who are dragstrip bound, I would also add a few additional items.
6. Adjustable lower control arms - The aftermarket lower control arms are much stouter, and will not flex like the factory lower control arms. Going with adjustable ones will allow the user to center the rear end in the wheelwell. The stock rear end position from the factory tends to be .5" towards the rear of the car. You really won't notice it until larger diameter tires are installed. If a car tends to consistently veer to one side of track, the adjustable lower control arms can be adjusted to get the car to straighten out.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-82-02...hru-XCA001.htm
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-737...ser-737100.htm
7. Lower control arm relocation brackets - Lower control arm relocation brackets are meant to be used when the car has been lowered, which alters the angle of the lower control arms. We have found that the relocation brackets also help in getting traction in non lowered cars. We use the weld on style that BMR offers. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-CAB00...BMR-CAB001.htm
Moser offerslower control arm relocation brackets on all of their rear-ends!
8. Panhard bar - The factory pan hard bar is pretty flimsy and additional traction can be found by replacing the factory pan hard bar with a heavier duty aftermarket bar. The rear in these cars tends to sit closer to the right side, and by purchasing an adjustable pan hard bar, the rear-end can be centered in the body. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-737...ser-737101.htm http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-82-02...hru-PHR010.htm
9. Strut Tower Brace - Eliminate flexing in the front end by adding an aftermarket strut tower brace. You will also notice that the car will handle better with a strut tower brace. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-93-02...ru-XSTB001.htm
10. Battery box relocation - By relocating the battery to the trunk, you will remove a lot of weight off the front of the car and place the weight behind the rear-end, where it will aid in traction. The car will also be able to handle better with the weight relocation.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-BR001...-BMR-BR001.htm
11. BMR X-treme rear anti sway bar. This anti sway bar can be pre- loaded to eliminate the right side body twist that is common when launching out of the hole. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-XTREM...B001XSB002.htm
12. Adjustable shocks and front coil over springs - We use the Hal QA1 adjustable shocks on our cars, the ones with two dials. It is easy to adjust these shocks for street use, and then readjust them for strip use by simply rotating the 12 way adjustable dials. The Hal QA1 front coil over springs allows the front end height to easily be adjusted. http://shop.brutespeed.com/QA1-HAL-9...ody-Shocks.htm
13. K member - By replacing the front K member and upper and lower control arms with light weight aftermarket tubular ones, a lot of weight is removed from the front suspension. Since front end weight is removed, better off the line traction and better handling will occur. We have had good success with the BMR parts, and combined with the Hal QA1 shocks and coil over front springs, gives the car a much better chance of getting traction on the starting line. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-FEP00...BMR-FEP004.htm
14. Headers and cat back exhaust - Everyone has their favorites, but we have grown very fond of Kooks headers, and the Magnaflow Cat Back exhaust systems. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Headers-Exhaust_c180.htm
Kooks stainless steel headers fit very well, with excellent ground clearance.
The Magnaflow cat back exhaust systems give these cars a good muscular sound that will not drown out your stereo while driving down the road. The exhaust tubing is larger than the stock tubing and is mandrel bent, for better exhaust flow.
$6620.00 shipped for the ProCharger D-1SC system in the above link. The only thing you will need is to either get a mail order tune or a dyno tune.
https://www.brutespeed.com/prochargers.htm
I have put together quite a bit of information at the link here that may help you out.
1. Subframe Connectors - Absolutely necessary to keep your F Body from twisting and stretching. I have seen too many of these cars lose their door to fender gaps from having gone too long without subframe connectors. Subframe connectors will make the car handle better, you'll get fewer squeaks and the car will get better traction. We use BMR's box tube subframe connectors on most of our builds. BMR subframe connectors will not get in the way of exhaust systems, where a lot of the diamond style subframe connectors will cause interference when trying to run true duals. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-SFC00...C001SFC004.htm
2. Torque Arm - BMR, Global West and Spohn all make torque arms that relocate the front mount off of the transmission by relocating the front mount back behind the transmission. The relocation of the front mount relieves the stress from the tailshaft of the transmission that the torque arm places on it, as a result of trying to contain the rear-end and it's rotational stresses. The stock torque arm is a stamped piece of sheetmetal that has broken apart for many people, and it sometimes takes out the driveshaft with it when it goes. By relocating the front mount of the torque arm behind the transmission, the geometry of the rear suspension becomes much better and really aids in hooking up the rear suspension. While replacing the torque arm, check the transmission mount, as the stock torque arm places a huge load on the mount, and the mount breaks quite often when using the factory torque arm. The adjustability of these aftermarket torque arms allows the user to adjust the pinion angle of the rear suspension which aids in finding traction. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-82-02...hru-XTA001.htm
3. Moser Nine Inch - Sooner or later the weak 7.5" Chevy S-10 derived 10 bolt is going to break. I wouldn't waste any money into attempting to build up the 10 bolt, it just doesn't work. There isn't one strong point to the stocker. For those of you with a six speed transmission, the 10 bolt has broken on many M6 cars with stock power. Expect the worse to happen... 3:75 gears in the Moser rear-end is a good compromise, especially when adding a lot of power to the engine. http://shop.brutespeed.com/82-02-F-B...ar-Ends_c5.htm
I recommend the 9 inch rear for the higher horsepowered cars, and for those who have a manual transmission. Here is why.
Put a 12 bolt into a early Chevelle, Nova, Camaro, etc and you can beat the crap out of it, and not hurt anything. Put one into one of our cars with a torque arm, make a couple 4000 to 5000 dragstrip launches, and I can just about guarantee you'll pick up gear noise. If it is a drag only car, you'll never know or care about the gear noise. Drive your car home from the track, and the noise will drive you nuts. I feel the torque arm stresses the 12 bolt housing, causing distortion. We have never seen this happen with the 9 inch housing.
You can order a Moser 9 inch with ABS, or with ABS/TCS if you also have traction control. If you have ABS and you decide not to get the rear with ABS, the info below may be of some help.
Without ABS hooked up on the rear end you will not have ABS on the front brakes either. ABS stands for automatic braking system, without it you will be back to old school threshold braking, which I prefer. With old school brakes if you stand on the pedal, you're going to lock up the brakes, which can result in a magnificent looking skid mark, or you could end up in a ditch... With old school brakes you learn where the point of lock up is, which is how hard you want to apply the brakes in a panic situation.
With your ABS disconnected you will have a light staring at you on the dash, there is no way to tune it out, either live with it, pull the bulb out or put some black tape over it. You can remove the ABS assembly, which will remove 14 lbs of wight from the car. It will clean it up so it looks better, but you'll still have that stupid light to contend with.
4. Driveshaft - The stock GM driveshaft have broken for many enthusiast, both the steel and the 3.0" aluminum GM driveshafts are fairly weak. I recommend an aftermarket PST 3.5" aluminum driveshaft with a 1350 Yoke with a 1350 U Joint. Combined with the Moser 9 inch with their supplied 1350 yoke, you will have a strong drivetrain. I sell the PST 3.5" aluminum driveshafts, which are rated at 1000 hp. They come with a lifetime warranty, a deal you just can't beat. http://shop.brutespeed.com/PST-35-In...Driveshaft.htm
5. Clutch and pressure plate - I recommend the Spec Stage 3+ clutch and pressure plate. Expect some chatter for the first 500 miles, then it will be pretty smooth. I would also add the '01-'02 slave cylinder for the older models, and do the "drill mod" to the master cylinder. Do a search for the drill mod, and you will see what it entails. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Spec-Clut...LS1-F-Body.htm
At this point I believe the suspension is capable off supporting a lot of horsepower, and you can go straight to item 14.
For those of you who are dragstrip bound, I would also add a few additional items.
6. Adjustable lower control arms - The aftermarket lower control arms are much stouter, and will not flex like the factory lower control arms. Going with adjustable ones will allow the user to center the rear end in the wheelwell. The stock rear end position from the factory tends to be .5" towards the rear of the car. You really won't notice it until larger diameter tires are installed. If a car tends to consistently veer to one side of track, the adjustable lower control arms can be adjusted to get the car to straighten out.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-82-02...hru-XCA001.htm
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-737...ser-737100.htm
7. Lower control arm relocation brackets - Lower control arm relocation brackets are meant to be used when the car has been lowered, which alters the angle of the lower control arms. We have found that the relocation brackets also help in getting traction in non lowered cars. We use the weld on style that BMR offers. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-CAB00...BMR-CAB001.htm
Moser offerslower control arm relocation brackets on all of their rear-ends!
8. Panhard bar - The factory pan hard bar is pretty flimsy and additional traction can be found by replacing the factory pan hard bar with a heavier duty aftermarket bar. The rear in these cars tends to sit closer to the right side, and by purchasing an adjustable pan hard bar, the rear-end can be centered in the body. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-737...ser-737101.htm http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-82-02...hru-PHR010.htm
9. Strut Tower Brace - Eliminate flexing in the front end by adding an aftermarket strut tower brace. You will also notice that the car will handle better with a strut tower brace. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-93-02...ru-XSTB001.htm
10. Battery box relocation - By relocating the battery to the trunk, you will remove a lot of weight off the front of the car and place the weight behind the rear-end, where it will aid in traction. The car will also be able to handle better with the weight relocation.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-BR001...-BMR-BR001.htm
11. BMR X-treme rear anti sway bar. This anti sway bar can be pre- loaded to eliminate the right side body twist that is common when launching out of the hole. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-XTREM...B001XSB002.htm
12. Adjustable shocks and front coil over springs - We use the Hal QA1 adjustable shocks on our cars, the ones with two dials. It is easy to adjust these shocks for street use, and then readjust them for strip use by simply rotating the 12 way adjustable dials. The Hal QA1 front coil over springs allows the front end height to easily be adjusted. http://shop.brutespeed.com/QA1-HAL-9...ody-Shocks.htm
13. K member - By replacing the front K member and upper and lower control arms with light weight aftermarket tubular ones, a lot of weight is removed from the front suspension. Since front end weight is removed, better off the line traction and better handling will occur. We have had good success with the BMR parts, and combined with the Hal QA1 shocks and coil over front springs, gives the car a much better chance of getting traction on the starting line. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-FEP00...BMR-FEP004.htm
14. Headers and cat back exhaust - Everyone has their favorites, but we have grown very fond of Kooks headers, and the Magnaflow Cat Back exhaust systems. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Headers-Exhaust_c180.htm
Kooks stainless steel headers fit very well, with excellent ground clearance.
The Magnaflow cat back exhaust systems give these cars a good muscular sound that will not drown out your stereo while driving down the road. The exhaust tubing is larger than the stock tubing and is mandrel bent, for better exhaust flow.
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
Last edited by Bob@BruteSpeed; 12-10-2010 at 06:49 AM.
12-10-2010, 07:01 AM
#4
Three cups of coffee will do that... Thanks. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
12-10-2010, 11:33 AM
#6
$6620.00 shipped for the ProCharger system, and I would at the very least add subframe connectors to your car, which are $159.95. Since your car is an automatic the rear may hold up. If you're not real hard on your car, you should be able to get by with just the ProCharger and the subframe connectors. Heads and exhaust would get you even more power, but they are not absolutely necessary. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Thanks. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
12-10-2010, 12:53 PM
#7
$6620.00 shipped for the ProCharger system, and I would at the very least add subframe connectors to your car, which are $159.95. Since your car is an automatic the rear may hold up. If you're not real hard on your car, you should be able to get by with just the ProCharger and the subframe connectors. Heads and exhaust would get you even more power, but they are not absolutely necessary. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Thanks. Bob
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12-11-2010, 07:46 AM
#8
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
