evo462

iTrader: (27)

I was thinking earlier today...if I was going to do a 5.3 swap into my fbody, why not just go up to a 6.0? There is probably slightly higher costs involved with needing a bigger wastegate, blowoff valve, and turbo...is there a benefit from the 5.3 aside from being cheaper? The only thing I really need is the short block from either...

Thanks!

IT_SS

iTrader: (5)

5.3s/4.8s are a cheaper (picked mine up for 150), have thicker cylinder walls, meetier pistons and can achieve a lower CR with untouched stock parts and are more plentyfull in the local jys

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

5.3's seem to be a dime a dozen and sell a lot cheaper than 6.0's. Also, with a smaller engine you can make more power on the same size turbo before you are out of the efficiency range. Back pressure is also less of an issue with a smaller engine.

evo462

iTrader: (27)

good info...thanks. something to think about. they do seem to be cheaper but upgrading to a 76mm turbo on a stock 6.0 seems tempting.

Josh@KY-Turbo

iTrader: (120)

It all boils down to what you want. A 325ci 5.3L would be killer with good rods and pistons and a O-ring. Throw in a decent set of TFS heads and a 91mm Turbo. Good times for cheap.

PT01GT

same why I am building a 4.6 2v and not a 5.4 4v. Cost and you can still make plenty of power with a 5.3L. Thats the beauty about boost man. Makes up for displacement

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

I did the 5.3 because it was cheaper, plus now I'm running the aluminum 5.3(L33) so that is 80lbs off the nose of the car, has the better rods than the lq4 6.0 and it has the 799 heads. I've gone the times in my sig on the 5.3 on 18lbs and off the footbrake.

PT01GT

I have no idea what any of that means lol but the weight is a big thing. I am doing an ALUM 4.6 instead od a IRON 5.4 b.c of weight. If you have boost just add 2 more psi and make up for the less cubes and still be lighter

MillsMotorvation

I have a 6.0, but Im told stock rods cant take alot, where I hear a 5.3's rods can take alot more!

evo462

iTrader: (27)

OK...maybe I'll forget about more cubic inches if/until I decide to go big turbo and big motor then.

Fb0dy0nly

iTrader: (10)

A 5.3 can always be bored out to a 5.7 as well for a little more down the road. Just a thought if you are looking to get the most out of the block before moving up.

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

5.3 is a fuse. $250 to replace its a quarter the cost of a 6.0 in my area plus as was mentioned, thicker walls and a smaller piston which means boost is acting on a smaller area(stronger)

99Z28LS1

iTrader: (4)

Quit pinching pennies and just do a 370

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

yup get a 6.0 imo.

You can always get there with a smaller motor... but takes more cylinder pressure to make the same power as a larger motor.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

If the tune is good, the weak link between both motors is going to be the rods, which are the same(lm7/lq4 and the lq9/L33).

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Depends on the year.... rods changed.

But I still vote 6.0

Had a 5.3 in my lt1 bird with a tc76 on it. Lots of fun =]
But if I were to do the same junkyard dog build again I would
do a 6.0

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

Correct which if you read my post it mentions that, the lm7 and lq4 rods are the same, the l33 and lq9 rods are the same(also same as ls2 rods).

MillsMotorvation

So what are the stock 2002 LQ4's good for?

WSsick

iTrader: (13)

I would go with ARP hardware there, no reason to take that risk for such a small insurance investment.

You handing out the money? I'll be first in line!

That is too open-ended of a question. Lots of factors can play into that.

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Unless your tryin to make well over 600rwhp then quit thinking about it so much. Any of them will hold that on a good tune.

If your trying to make more than that, then any stock part besides the crank is a gamble.