BTR 227/244 Cam and a PT7675 in a 5.7L?
11-06-2017, 10:29 PM
#1
BTR 227/244 Cam and a PT7675 in a 5.7L? Yeah yeah, I know it's not optimal. But the setup now (11.2:1 CR) and this cam is what's in the car now. Pulls cleanly to 7K.
I'm about to finally go with some form of power adder. And a Huron A/C T4 kit with either the Turbonetics 7575 or PT7675 is what I'm leaning toward. Of course, grabbing a take-out 5.3L and that would be best with a turbo cam. But the motor is running great now and wouldn't mind just throwing a turbo on it to see what it does @ 10-12psi with Methanol.
I had been building toward a D1X... but the turbo seems like it'd be even more fun. I just want to know if I should pull the cam or how much it'd hurt me. I've been looking at doing a built 5.3L... but may punch it out to a 5.7L...but the turbines on those small T4 turbos makes me worry about backpressure and making any power above 6000. Add in a cam with so much exhaust duration and uh-oh. Of course, they will light off pretty good for street driving.
Also will be swapping to a FTI Triple 3600 stall designed for FI. Rest of my **** in sig.
Thanks for any advice.
I'm about to finally go with some form of power adder. And a Huron A/C T4 kit with either the Turbonetics 7575 or PT7675 is what I'm leaning toward. Of course, grabbing a take-out 5.3L and that would be best with a turbo cam. But the motor is running great now and wouldn't mind just throwing a turbo on it to see what it does @ 10-12psi with Methanol.
I had been building toward a D1X... but the turbo seems like it'd be even more fun. I just want to know if I should pull the cam or how much it'd hurt me. I've been looking at doing a built 5.3L... but may punch it out to a 5.7L...but the turbines on those small T4 turbos makes me worry about backpressure and making any power above 6000. Add in a cam with so much exhaust duration and uh-oh. Of course, they will light off pretty good for street driving.
Also will be swapping to a FTI Triple 3600 stall designed for FI. Rest of my **** in sig.
Thanks for any advice.
11-07-2017, 06:27 AM
#2
Restricted User
You'll need a larger turbine. It won't pull so cleanly up to 7k once a small turbine starts to build exhaust backpressure with that much overlap.
A 1.25 A/R T4 Borg Warner with a 96mm turbine wheel is going to be your best bet as far as T4 goes anyway. You'll likely need a 4" downpipe as well, unless you split it into 2 3" downpipes. VS Racing sells Borg style turbos with that housing/wheel combo for a VERY good price.
Then, you could probably get away without changing anything on your setup.
A 1.25 A/R T4 Borg Warner with a 96mm turbine wheel is going to be your best bet as far as T4 goes anyway. You'll likely need a 4" downpipe as well, unless you split it into 2 3" downpipes. VS Racing sells Borg style turbos with that housing/wheel combo for a VERY good price.
Then, you could probably get away without changing anything on your setup.
11-07-2017, 08:05 AM
#3
Yeah, that's what I was looking at. I don't know if it'll fit with the Huron A/C kit. The way they snake the downpipe around wouldn't work. But I've got a guy who does good fab work I started using. He could probably take the A/C or non-A/C kit and work a new downpipe for me...
11-07-2017, 08:15 AM
#4
Restricted User
This just popped up here somewhere a couple of days ago. People were asking about fitting the Borg turbos on their V1 kit. A few guys said they were running Borg Warners on theirs. I don't know much about the A/C kit, though.
11-07-2017, 09:37 PM
#5
I was looking at the T6 kit as well. I could use the Holley brackets and move the A/C up above everything and fab some custom lines for it. That'd probably be easiest...
And then I was thinking of taking my 5.3L block and doing a 383 with it and running an 80/96 1.32 T6 on it with a 234/239 115 cam. I think with a 3600 stall it'd light off pretty good and carry with a 4" DP without too much back pressure to 6800. Otherwise, the 75/92 1.10 would be better if I kept it 5.3L. 5.7L is somewhere in there... maybe the 75/96 1.32 and rev the hell out of it.
Either way, I'd try to keep it around 10:1 CR.
And then I was thinking of taking my 5.3L block and doing a 383 with it and running an 80/96 1.32 T6 on it with a 234/239 115 cam. I think with a 3600 stall it'd light off pretty good and carry with a 4" DP without too much back pressure to 6800. Otherwise, the 75/92 1.10 would be better if I kept it 5.3L. 5.7L is somewhere in there... maybe the 75/96 1.32 and rev the hell out of it.
Either way, I'd try to keep it around 10:1 CR.
11-07-2017, 11:51 PM
#7
I've been looking at the Comp CT43 with the CT5 88/94 turbine with the 1.32 A/R and 4" Downpipe option and 76mm billet compressor. It's way above the price of the 7675 and the package is larger as well... but the guts are more like a BW S400. But the S400 is a better value.
It would be a drop in to the Huron Speed A/C kit... and might even allow me to do a 383...
It would be a drop in to the Huron Speed A/C kit... and might even allow me to do a 383...
Last edited by JakeFusion; 11-08-2017 at 08:11 AM.
Trending Topics
11-08-2017, 08:10 AM
#9
Agree on the downpipe issue with the standard kit. Id go the T6 kit route and custom A/C lines. You really need to plot out some efficiency charts based on your intended turbo and boost pressure and C.I. Forcedinductions.com has some good airflow tables and compressor maps to give you a ballpark.
11-08-2017, 08:14 AM
#10
I know... D1X would have bolted right up. And made power.
But the weird thing is... the pricing is still better for the turbo.
I plan to swap the cam, because I'll pull the motor to do the k-member and other stuff. And a cam swap out of the car takes less than an hour. In the car it's all damn day.
I was talking to Jon @ Huron and the Comp Billet 7875 1.32 A/R would be really good for that 800rwhp cammed 5.7... so I may do that. Plus it would light off pretty damn fast given the Comp 82/75 turbine wheel. Then if I need more later, a BW S480 or something could be shoe-horned in there. But really, that needs a T6.
But going this route, I can use their kit without doing a lot of changes. Big one may be moving away from the BeCool radiator I have so everything would fit. I'll probably also toy with the idea of standing up the radiator and going to one of Mighty Mouse's shrouds on a Griffin radiator so I can keep SPAL Pullers on there... (if it'll fit - would have to test fit). That would mean a custom set of lines and condenser for the A/C, but I've seen that done. And I think that would cool better than Derale pushers.
Of course my exhaust guy said just do twins. Easier to fit a pair of 3" downpipes and then hook them to my true duals.
Cost just goes up - and I was looking at doing a 388 at one point with a pair of 67mm turbos. Then the costs spiraled out of control on the way to a 1400rwhp build. LOL.
But the weird thing is... the pricing is still better for the turbo.
I plan to swap the cam, because I'll pull the motor to do the k-member and other stuff. And a cam swap out of the car takes less than an hour. In the car it's all damn day.
I was talking to Jon @ Huron and the Comp Billet 7875 1.32 A/R would be really good for that 800rwhp cammed 5.7... so I may do that. Plus it would light off pretty damn fast given the Comp 82/75 turbine wheel. Then if I need more later, a BW S480 or something could be shoe-horned in there. But really, that needs a T6.
But going this route, I can use their kit without doing a lot of changes. Big one may be moving away from the BeCool radiator I have so everything would fit. I'll probably also toy with the idea of standing up the radiator and going to one of Mighty Mouse's shrouds on a Griffin radiator so I can keep SPAL Pullers on there... (if it'll fit - would have to test fit). That would mean a custom set of lines and condenser for the A/C, but I've seen that done. And I think that would cool better than Derale pushers.
Of course my exhaust guy said just do twins. Easier to fit a pair of 3" downpipes and then hook them to my true duals.
Cost just goes up - and I was looking at doing a 388 at one point with a pair of 67mm turbos. Then the costs spiraled out of control on the way to a 1400rwhp build. LOL.
11-08-2017, 08:42 AM
#11
Just remember pricing is better with the turbo the first time. Unless you're using China turbo's, the price of a new turbo or rebuild starts to even things out real quick when the turbo fails. Many examples online of Prochargers going 50-150k miles. I had a Precision turbo and it was expensive, but awesome....but for the price I could have bought 4 China turbo's lol.
11-08-2017, 09:33 AM
#13
Just remember pricing is better with the turbo the first time. Unless you're using China turbo's, the price of a new turbo or rebuild starts to even things out real quick when the turbo fails. Many examples online of Prochargers going 50-150k miles. I had a Precision turbo and it was expensive, but awesome....but for the price I could have bought 4 China turbo's lol.
D1X would be so much easier for me to install... LOL
Sigh.
11-08-2017, 09:40 PM
#17
Cost just goes up - and I was looking at doing a 388 at one point with a pair of 67mm turbos. Then the costs spiraled out of control on the way to a 1400rwhp build. LOL.[/QUOTE]
Agreed, the cost to do anything properly the 1st time around takes time, preparation and little regard to budget, even a properly sized ProCharger with comparable HP won't be cheap and any Quality Turbo will cost, I'm gathering my parts now for the 388 Build, going with the Garrett GTX55 and now just a few more items and its time to build.... similar RWHP target as well... should be a fun street ride with track capabilities too! enjoy
Agreed, the cost to do anything properly the 1st time around takes time, preparation and little regard to budget, even a properly sized ProCharger with comparable HP won't be cheap and any Quality Turbo will cost, I'm gathering my parts now for the 388 Build, going with the Garrett GTX55 and now just a few more items and its time to build.... similar RWHP target as well... should be a fun street ride with track capabilities too! enjoy
11-08-2017, 10:10 PM
#18
I've been talking to my fab guy... he has me looking at a Garrett GT4508R 1.44 A/R or 1.28 A/R T4 (80mm billet wheel and 87mm turbine) which can be packaged pretty damn well... with a 4" downpipe and then a custom 6" fabricated Bell intercooler with 3.5" piping and LPS AlphaLocs. On a 9.7:1 built 347 that's probably a 900rwhp turbo at 18psi through my FLT built 4L60. That's about the limit I'd go with a 4L60 before moving to a 4L80...
He's trying to get me to do a custom set of 321SS headers where we can keep the A/C and run everything like I want. It's tempting because the guy does really good work.
But you're right - cost for doing it right is what you have to look at.
He's trying to get me to do a custom set of 321SS headers where we can keep the A/C and run everything like I want. It's tempting because the guy does really good work.
But you're right - cost for doing it right is what you have to look at.
Last edited by JakeFusion; 11-08-2017 at 10:36 PM.
11-08-2017, 11:33 PM
#20
Trying to decide if a Garrett turbo is worth the cost. They look to less than reliable...
GT4508R seems like a good match for a 347 tho. And the packaging is smaller than the BW T4 stuff. But a S476 96 1.25 would be great on a stalled 347 with some cam... but I worry it'd be a bit laggy. Doing the 92 turbine would probably help but limit the power uptop to what 6500?
And the S480 96 1.25 would probably make for a great street turbo with a 383... and would probably spin to 6500 pretty well.
GT4508R seems like a good match for a 347 tho. And the packaging is smaller than the BW T4 stuff. But a S476 96 1.25 would be great on a stalled 347 with some cam... but I worry it'd be a bit laggy. Doing the 92 turbine would probably help but limit the power uptop to what 6500?
And the S480 96 1.25 would probably make for a great street turbo with a 383... and would probably spin to 6500 pretty well.
