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After I bought my LT1 WS6 some number of years ago. I had issues with it overheating in traffic with the A/C on. I lived in Florida at the time. I bought the vehicle used with around 60k miles. So first thing I checked was the t-stat and it was not there. I bought one at the local Napa and installed it. No issues after that. Before that it would only overheat when the car was at a standstill in traffic with the A/C on. Driving it was fine even with the A/C on.
__________________ 1999 TA WS6 on pump gas - P1SC (8 psi), FMIC, Alky Control Kit, LS1 w/214/224 cam, TSP 1 7/8 headers with ORY, Corsa exhaust, TH-400 (4K PTC Converter), Moser 12 bolt (3.73), Wolfe CM 6 point Roll Bar. Best 1/4 mile 10.29@129 w/1.60 sixty ft.
2004 Mustang Cobra/Screaming Yellow-Just an Eaton car...
I always run strait water with water wetter in my car during the spring/summer months. Last year I tried no thermostat and the car will cool fine on the highway but at low speeds/stopped it will get hot quick usually wouldn't get warmer than 210ish but it would get there fast. I think the pump is moving coolant way to fast through the radiator to let it do its job. Moved back to a thermostat with 3 holes drilled it stays around 185-190 consistent
I had issue with mine getting hot with no t stat but I Also don't have a place for a t stat, I'm running the miezer pump on the radiator setup, I think it comes down to moving water too fast... Not sure though
__________________ 2011 2SS Synergy Green, Pfadt stage3, Cam, Full Exhaust,Whippled,Alky injection 711RWHP/607FTLB(OLD)
LME 427LSx,F1X custom plumbing,Aeromotive Fuel, Gforce 9", Alky Controls Twin Nozzle,RPM Level 6 Manual Trans 1032rwhp@5200RPM... So Far..... 2006 Mega Cab 6" Lift, 35s on 22s. 640/1333 2013 Tahoe 4WD LTZ 1999 Baja Outlaw 25' 489 Stroker Mag/MPI
there is a big difference between a waterpump designed with no thermostat and pulling the thermostat out of a normal waterpump
on a normal waterpump the thermostat acts a a valve directing water either through the radiator or through the bypass........ when you just remove the Tstat in can run through the bypass and not be forced through the radiator
I've done that on sbc's but not an ls. I just cut the center out of the thermostat and used the outer part as the restrictor. That's been a few years ago but I don't remember having any under/overheating issues
I have always run a t-stat. But I drill a 3/16" hole in it toprovide constant flow of coolant through the engine. Every Ls or Lt I have done this to has always ran below normal running temps w/out fan on/off degree changed.
Its worked for me for years especially with cars that I had which had prior "hot running" temps. it always dropped the temps.
common myth that water flows too fast to work in the radiator.
What actually happens is removing the Tstat causes the water pressure in cylinder head to drop. You just removed a big restriction remember. The reduced pressure allows the coolant to start localized boiling which blocks flow to that area. Leaving out some detail, this drives the temp up fast.
Stop and go low rpm makes the pressure even lower.
For those that disagree about the faster flow being a myth, I'll throw up links for the math and science and let you explain your theory.
edit - they sell restrictors to replace the stat.
__________________ 71 Nova project- turbo 6.0, 4L80E, 12blt
Turbos10 is partially correct on this subject, everything he said is correct and true but the main issue with removing a ls1 tstat ist the bypass port behind the tstat needs to be blocked or else fluid will not flow through the system
As far as the boiling pockets that Turbos10 was talking about go , simply upgrading you radiator cap the a higher pressure will cure this
I've been running no tstat for years now in 110* desert heat with no problem
I'll add more to this as well with the ls1 waterpump the tstat is before the the waterpump so unlike sbc the tstat provides zero extra pressure on the heads or block , the only thing it does in a ls1 is starve your waterpump of fluid to flow