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Old 03-28-2012, 02:40 PM   #1
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Default any street cars run without thermostat?

yes or no and how does it act?

Ive heard stories that the car will overcool and other stories that it will overheat.

One way does not give the water time in the block to heat up, and the other does not give the water time in the rad to cool off.

seems a wash to me?
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:46 PM   #2
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i run an electric pump with not T stat. Never have a problem.

I always let it warm up a couple minutes before i take off and coolant temps come right up

i have my fans on at 200 and off at 185 and they will still cycle on and off even in 100* weather

and it never gets cooler than around 160 once the engine is warm, even in 35-40* ambient temps which is about as cold as i drive the car
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:51 PM   #3
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After I bought my LT1 WS6 some number of years ago. I had issues with it overheating in traffic with the A/C on. I lived in Florida at the time. I bought the vehicle used with around 60k miles. So first thing I checked was the t-stat and it was not there. I bought one at the local Napa and installed it. No issues after that. Before that it would only overheat when the car was at a standstill in traffic with the A/C on. Driving it was fine even with the A/C on.
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Old 03-28-2012, 03:18 PM   #4
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We've been running no stat in older 5.0's for ever now, never an issue as long as a good electric fan is used.

I'd guess the LT1 would act a bit differently being a reverse cooled application though, not like an LS1?
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Old 03-28-2012, 03:27 PM   #5
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I wouldn't think reverse would matter. All ur doing is allowing a constant flow instead of the engine warming to operating temp that the stat is rated for then opening.

I remove the stat on my APU on my semi every summer to keep it from overheating. Winter time it goes back in other wise the truck would never heat up inside lol
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Old 03-28-2012, 03:34 PM   #6
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I always run strait water with water wetter in my car during the spring/summer months. Last year I tried no thermostat and the car will cool fine on the highway but at low speeds/stopped it will get hot quick usually wouldn't get warmer than 210ish but it would get there fast. I think the pump is moving coolant way to fast through the radiator to let it do its job. Moved back to a thermostat with 3 holes drilled it stays around 185-190 consistent
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Old 03-28-2012, 03:49 PM   #7
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I had issue with mine getting hot with no t stat but I Also don't have a place for a t stat, I'm running the miezer pump on the radiator setup, I think it comes down to moving water too fast... Not sure though
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Old 03-28-2012, 03:55 PM   #8
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there is a big difference between a waterpump designed with no thermostat and pulling the thermostat out of a normal waterpump

on a normal waterpump the thermostat acts a a valve directing water either through the radiator or through the bypass........ when you just remove the Tstat in can run through the bypass and not be forced through the radiator
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Old 03-28-2012, 03:56 PM   #9
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random thought:

the opening that the thermostat provides is still rather small, even wide open vs the hole left with no thermostat period.


what about a restrictor plate, fixed orifice about the size of an open thermostat would slow the flow to an appropriate level?? cooling guru in the house?
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:54 PM   #10
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I've done that on sbc's but not an ls. I just cut the center out of the thermostat and used the outer part as the restrictor. That's been a few years ago but I don't remember having any under/overheating issues
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE View Post
what about a restrictor plate, fixed orifice about the size of an open thermostat would slow the flow to an appropriate level?? cooling guru in the house?
I've done that on a turbo inline 6 before, messed with different openings until we got it to act like we wanted. The car didn't make anywhere near the power that you or Automagic make, however.
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:41 PM   #12
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i doubt it could flow enough to not cool but ive been running no thermostat on my street car last 10k miles with no overheating issues. i still have alum block but idk if that have too much effect
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:41 PM   #13
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On my wrx coolant temps would creep up in stop and go traffic, and on the interstate it would go cold.
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE View Post
random thought:

the opening that the thermostat provides is still rather small, even wide open vs the hole left with no thermostat period.


what about a restrictor plate, fixed orifice about the size of an open thermostat would slow the flow to an appropriate level?? cooling guru in the house?
Put a freeze plug in the hole behind the T-stat housing and drill a 1/4" hole in it. Works perfect.
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:13 PM   #15
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I have always run a t-stat. But I drill a 3/16" hole in it toprovide constant flow of coolant through the engine. Every Ls or Lt I have done this to has always ran below normal running temps w/out fan on/off degree changed.
Its worked for me for years especially with cars that I had which had prior "hot running" temps. it always dropped the temps.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:02 PM   #16
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common myth that water flows too fast to work in the radiator.

What actually happens is removing the Tstat causes the water pressure in cylinder head to drop. You just removed a big restriction remember. The reduced pressure allows the coolant to start localized boiling which blocks flow to that area. Leaving out some detail, this drives the temp up fast.
Stop and go low rpm makes the pressure even lower.

For those that disagree about the faster flow being a myth, I'll throw up links for the math and science and let you explain your theory.

edit - they sell restrictors to replace the stat.
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:16 AM   #17
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i put a shim in mine so its wide open but still has the restriction, plus it still uses the heater line block offs this way.
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:59 AM   #18
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stock t stat, (6) 1/8 holes around the perimeter and never gets above 140
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:15 AM   #19
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Turbos10 is partially correct on this subject, everything he said is correct and true but the main issue with removing a ls1 tstat ist the bypass port behind the tstat needs to be blocked or else fluid will not flow through the system
As far as the boiling pockets that Turbos10 was talking about go , simply upgrading you radiator cap the a higher pressure will cure this
I've been running no tstat for years now in 110* desert heat with no problem
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:25 AM   #20
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I'll add more to this as well with the ls1 waterpump the tstat is before the the waterpump so unlike sbc the tstat provides zero extra pressure on the heads or block , the only thing it does in a ls1 is starve your waterpump of fluid to flow
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:25 AM
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