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Need help with my SS 304 turbo manifold

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Old 04-22-2012, 09:22 PM   #1
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Default Need help with my SS 304 turbo manifold

Hey guys,
I'm welding up a log type manifold out of 304 stainless weld els and pipe for my 63 Chevy II. I'm TIG welding it together. The problem I am having is that in places, the weld has penetrated through and there is a little slag type stuff. In some spots, I can't get to it to grind it off. I was back purging with argon but ran out, not sure if this is why I have this. My worry is this will come off and take out a brand new turbo. Any ideas on how to avoid this? Is there a good posibility this will wreck the turbo? any body see this before?
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:39 PM   #2
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Its what happens to ss when the weld is exposed to oxegen the weld forms an oxide also known as "sugaring". They have pickling and passivating (first pickle then passivate)agents (ussually a paste) that react to and eliminate this oxide. They also have the tig brush if u can find a place that has one look it up on youtube.
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:47 PM   #3
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Passivation will NOT remove sugaring, is grinding out an option, then rewelding (filling the hole)? If you can access area insert a copper backing and fill, if copper is tight against weld area back purging will not be necessary.
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06tbss2wd View Post
Passivation will NOT remove sugaring, is grinding out an option, then rewelding (filling the hole)? If you can access area insert a copper backing and fill, if copper is tight against weld area back purging will not be necessary.
right u pickle first to remove the sugaring and then passivate to rapidly form the chromium oxide layer to protect the surface. The stainless will be prone to contaminates for a given time after its been grinded or pickled while the chromium oxide layer is forming it takes some like 850 hrs for the layer to fully form without passivating.
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:42 PM   #5
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Default pickling and passivating

The sugaring only seems to have happened in a couple of places where the weld penetrated well past the inner surface. If I can some how get a grinder up and remove the sugar, will I need to reweld it as it's the back side of the weld? I will basically have to cut it apart to completely grind it out. I started read about the P & P process. It does not sound like something I can do at home. Using the acids at home sounds a little extreme for me. Are the acids readily available? Will this sugaring severly weaken the manifold? Thanks for all the information! Sound like I need to get the spare Argon cylinder filled before I do any more welding for back purging.
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1989 Jeep Wrangler 5.3L/4L60E Daily driver
1963 Chevy II 5.3L/4L80E turbo project started
1994 Mustang Convertable, 4.8L/4L60E Wife's car
1973 Willis Jet Hydro 6-71 roots blower on a 6.0L in the works
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:33 PM   #6
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I wouldnt worry about it.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:08 AM   #7
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Solarflux is one way to help cut the sugar formation..............
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:02 AM   #8
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Quote:
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Solarflux is one way to help cut the sugar formation..............
or backpurging.
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:51 AM   #9
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def try the SolarFlux
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:24 AM   #10
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Backpurging is always optimal. Solar flux leaves a residue behind that you wouldn't want going through the turbine (not as bad as the slag though). Make sure you clean that off.

If you're out of argon though, how are you still welding?
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Old 04-24-2012, 05:26 PM   #11
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I have a second argon tank and the flow meter off my MIG that I was using to back purge. Still have 1 full tank attached to the TIG. Is it hard to get the solar flux off after the thing is welded? I'm trying to figure out the cross over pipe and it seems like it may be tough to get back up into pipe with any kind of brush or abrasive. I will be crossing under the car, right in front of the trans pan so some of the pipes will be fairly long to try and get a brush through. Any ideas for cleaning the flux up or would it probably be better to just back purge? Thanks for all the help.
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1988 Cutlas 6.0L/4L80E
1989 Jeep Wrangler 5.3L/4L60E Daily driver
1963 Chevy II 5.3L/4L80E turbo project started
1994 Mustang Convertable, 4.8L/4L60E Wife's car
1973 Willis Jet Hydro 6-71 roots blower on a 6.0L in the works
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Old 04-24-2012, 05:40 PM   #12
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how are you purging??? and not trying to teach or preach but how high amp are you welding on???? due to you welding schedule, whats your welding process? is it stainless or carbon steel? are you taping off all of your gaps? ive found with schedule screw the chamfered edge, fuze them with a good solid root pass then lay a purdy pass over walking the cup if you can get use to it. argon will fill the tube like water does and the welding of purged tube is a little different then flat welding. takes a few min to feel it out but when your fully purged youll be able to tell...
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Old 04-24-2012, 05:43 PM   #13
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i assume you do have an excape hole in the purged tube to let the argon excape? like 1-1/16? and any water in the tube will kill the purge........oh and solar flux sucks dick lol
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:10 AM   #14
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Columbia River has commentary on the problem with Solarflux and turbo damage.....Take a look over on The Turbo Forums. com..
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