Danny

iTrader: (16)

What’s up guys,
I’ve started fabrication on my twin turbo kit for my Fbody and I wanted some opinions.
I’ve already cut the 3-bolt style flanges off the manifolds to make room for the new 2.5” V-band style flanges that will be welded on once they arrive. I’m also running 2.5” mild steel pipes from my manifolds to my turbos. As you can see from the pics the pipes travel from the manifolds, goes down and forward, makes a 90 degree turn under the frame rail and then makes another 90 degree turn going up and into the turbo. The driver side turbo will be located right where the fuse boxes were.






Now, here’s my dilemma…
I need to have some flex point somewhere in the system due to engine movement. I’ll be using Energy Suspension poly mounts to help keep movement down to a minimum. Should I put a flex joint here (see pic below) and fab a bracket to bolt the turbo to the frame OR keep a continuous pipe all the way to the turbo and put flex couplers on the cold side joints? I kinda don’t want to put any flex feed pipes because I want the best flow possible to spool both turbos. I’m not sure if the flex joints cause any turbulence…I’ve never used them. I’m also concerned that without securing the turbo the frame, the weight of the turbo might cause cracks on the pipes.



So, what do you guys think? Should I use a flex joint where I indicated and bolt the turbo to the frame OR keep a continous pipe and don’t secure the turbo the frame?
Also, I’m using stock truck manifolds off a Denali 6.2L. Will porting the manifolds add much power or help spool the turbos any faster? I really don’t mind spending a few hours porting if it’ll help out.

BTW, turbos are the GT45 ebay units that will be powered by a forged LS3.
Any help would be greatly appreciated guys.
Thanks

Danny

iTrader: (16)

Anyone???

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Use a Flex from SPD

Danny

iTrader: (16)

That's what I was thinking but I just want to hear opinions before I start cutting and welding.

Danny

iTrader: (16)

The one I found on SPD is a 2.5"x4" but it says "not recommended for preturbo plumbing". Not to sure why. Maybe the heat?

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

because it looks the same on the inside as it does on the outside. You can buy them and split the inner ring to remove the braid that is inside. Check out http://www.racepartsolutions.com/products.asp?cat=82

The top one is like what is listed and you are questioning. The bottom is with no braid on them. If you buy the ones you are talking about and remove the inner braid, it will look like a mixture of the 2 in the link I posted above.

I have done it several times. The reason the braid is removed is with extreme heat it breaks down the integrity of the braided mesh and when it lets loose it goes into the turbo and kills it.

Danny

iTrader: (16)

I see. So you're saying I can just buy the ones you're talking about and remove the inner mesh liner? Can this be done with any flex coupler or only these specific ones?

Also, I was looking at summitracing and I found a few. What do you guys think about these?

This is a basic one. If I can remove the inner liner from this one I'll just buy these. No sense in spending more on something if the outcome will be the same...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JEX-FLX2508B/

This one even says it's for FI applications but I'm not sure if they're actually referring to "preturbo" applications.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPE-45533/

Thanks guys

Freeman83

Love it when people have the ***** to DIY. Good luck with your build man. Subscribed

Danny

iTrader: (16)

Thanks man. I'm really hoping these twins will push me over the 1000HP mark. I only have Saturdays to work on the car since Sunday is family day. So I should have some updates this wknd if the V bands and T4 flanges show up.

tt383lt1

iTrader: (3)

look really close to my twin setup. i didnt run my under the frame rails i went right in front and good job. like to see the end piece.

Danny

iTrader: (16)

One thing I still want to know...is porting the stock manifolds worth it in this case? I'm guessing it should but I want to know for sure. Any thoughts?

tt383lt1

iTrader: (3)

i would not think so. i got told you want back presure to spool the turbo quicker. think of having a 2" pipe and a 3" pipe with the same air flow. the smaller the pipe would get more pressure to spool it quicker

ren987

iTrader: (4)

I just opened mine up around the gasket they had some areas that were fairly rough.

Danny

iTrader: (16)

Ya, that was my first choice but since I want the turbos in the far corners there is no way I can run the pipes like that because the frame rails are in the way. I thought about mounting the turbos in front of the motor like you but I wanted plenty of space to work in case I had to do a cam swap, waterpump repair, etc.

Ya but I noticed that when guys build the headers they usually go for 1.75" and if I remember correctly the primaries on the manifolds are like 1 5/8". Plus I wanted to remove a lot of the rough casting marks.

I'm not looking to open them up with some serious porting. I just wanted to clean up the casting marks and any rough edges.

What do you guys think if I just clean up the casting? Basically removing the sand texture and leaving them smooth like if they were headers.

tt383lt1

iTrader: (3)

actully i moved the turbo right behind each headlight like yours i havenot updated my sig pic yet.

Danny

iTrader: (16)

Opps. I overlooked the pic you posted. I was looking at the pics on your sig. That looks really good. I actually wanna put the turbos a little further into the corners. That's why I need to go under the framerail and come up from there.

Danny

iTrader: (16)

UPDATE

A few parts arrived this morning so I can finally get more stuff done.



I’ll be welding the V-bands on the manifolds today. Since my exhaust flex couplers won’t be in till the end of next week I guess I’ll spend the extra time cutting off unnecessary brackets and making extra room for the turbos.

More updates to come.

Danny

iTrader: (16)

UPDATE

Well unfortunely I couldn't get much done this wknd since I had to work. But I was able to get the V band clamps welded up. I did this by putting a few tac welds in place to hold the flanges and then sticking them in the oven for about 45 mins @ 400 degrees. Then I simply took one out at a time, finished welding them and put them back in. After about 20 mins I turned off the heat and let them cool naturally.







I also worked on a design for the turbo support brackets. Hopefully I can get those done this coming wknd. My flex couplers should be coming in this wk from Summit so I just might be able to finish up the hot side this wknd.

atkinsson

Lookin good how much power expected from somthing like that?

Danny

iTrader: (16)

Well seeing how plenty of guys have made well over 500RWHP with a 5.3 with one of these, i'm hoping to make 1000RWHP with twins. My concern at this time is spool time. I've been thinking of stroking my LS3 and make a 416" instead of keeping the factory crank.