Project Red Headed Screamer: Destroked 6.0, 333ci 12.5:1, twin 6468s, faceplated T56
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Homer_Simpson (08-15-2023)
#44
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Wow. I was thinking about a bored/destroked 6.0 a while back, searched, and found a thread with the same setup in mind. All I saw, though, was incessant flaming from other members about "neutering" that nice big-inch setup by destroking it. Sounded ignorant to me. To hell with 'em, I can't wait to see how this turns out!
but.... i DID build it with an LS1 block, 317 heads, and a Z06 cam, ALL GM parts, even lifters, besides the Melling oil pump.......
it made a 309" LS1 (stock LS1 block and pistons, with stock 4.8 crank and rods)
on 8-9 psi, it ran the same times as my forged 6.0 ran on 5-6 psi, but after alot of abuse at +7500 rpm it finally spun a rod bearing.... currently building a forged bottom 331" with 6.0 block and 4.8 crank, just like the OP is doing
plan to put the trick flows and big cam in this one, since the experimental motor worked well
all the flaming i took for that plan, then gm builds it a year later and its the ****
to the OP.. you will love that motor.... and it does have good bottom end power
that is a very good looking setup that youve built, hope you enjoy!!!
Last edited by sprayinLS1s; 08-22-2012 at 05:21 AM.
#46
I've too been busy with work, and doing engines/machine work on the side to do my own stuff! Basically I decided to put the car on hold for a little while. With only a couple months of summer left up here, the soonest it could be on the road if I rushed and cut a few corners, would be the end of September at this point. The build got to be more expensive than I originally planned (go figure), with the bigger and better parts, and drained the funds real quick. I will restore funds over winter, take time to make sure everything is right on the car and get it ready for spring.
I still plan on getting the engine running and dyno'd in the very near future, just have to find the time to do it. Basically all that I need to do is some coating work, and assemble it. I am going to get a little coating crazy while I'm at it. Thermal ceramic coat the piston tops, chambers, valves, exhaust ports. Anti-friction coating on the piston skirts, and also the stock rocker arms.
I will be breaking it in on the engine dyno naturally aspirated to see what kind of numbers the little 332 will do. After we get it dialed in NA, I plan on bolting up the turbo kit. The dyno is an ancient Superflow, so I don't know if I will be able to put all the power to it.
I at least want to push it into the 4 digit mark at the flywheel though! Engine pics and videos will be coming soon.
I still plan on getting the engine running and dyno'd in the very near future, just have to find the time to do it. Basically all that I need to do is some coating work, and assemble it. I am going to get a little coating crazy while I'm at it. Thermal ceramic coat the piston tops, chambers, valves, exhaust ports. Anti-friction coating on the piston skirts, and also the stock rocker arms.
I will be breaking it in on the engine dyno naturally aspirated to see what kind of numbers the little 332 will do. After we get it dialed in NA, I plan on bolting up the turbo kit. The dyno is an ancient Superflow, so I don't know if I will be able to put all the power to it.
I at least want to push it into the 4 digit mark at the flywheel though! Engine pics and videos will be coming soon.
#51
I will have engine dyno numbers in both na form and boosted within two weeks! Just waiting for my order of CBX to arrive from techline so I can get everything coated, then its ready to go together. As far as the car goes, rwhp and tracktimes, won't be until spring 2013.
#53
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it made a 309" LS1 (stock LS1 block and pistons, with stock 4.8 crank and rods)
on 8-9 psi, it ran the same times as my forged 6.0 ran on 5-6 psi, but after alot of abuse at +7500 rpm it finally spun a rod bearing.... currently building a forged bottom 331" with 6.0 block and 4.8 crank, just like the OP is doing
plan to put the trick flows and big cam in this one, since the experimental motor worked well
on 8-9 psi, it ran the same times as my forged 6.0 ran on 5-6 psi, but after alot of abuse at +7500 rpm it finally spun a rod bearing.... currently building a forged bottom 331" with 6.0 block and 4.8 crank, just like the OP is doing
plan to put the trick flows and big cam in this one, since the experimental motor worked well
#57
Sorry for the complete lack of updates lately. Time and money for this project have been close to nonexistent the better part of the past month. It sucks, I want it to be done already, but life gets in the way sometimes. Things are slowing down now, and I can get going on the engine build again.
I was waiting for some engine parts to arrive the past few weeks. So I have everything needed and ready to go. The shortblock is going together this weekend. Then all I have to do is coat the heads, and they will be ready also. I will have some engine assembly pics and updates this weekend, I promise!
I was waiting for some engine parts to arrive the past few weeks. So I have everything needed and ready to go. The shortblock is going together this weekend. Then all I have to do is coat the heads, and they will be ready also. I will have some engine assembly pics and updates this weekend, I promise!
#58
Here are the engine pics from this weekend. It is ready for the dyno now, just have to schedule a time to do it. Hope to dyno it NA this week, and turbo'd shortly after, but we will see what happens we have a few engine dynos coming up at work.
LME Billet one piece reluctor wheel installation on the 4.8 crank.
Balancing it up, it was actually really close to factory balance, just had to drill very little since this rotating assembly is lighter than factory stuff.
Gapping rings. Total seal AP steel top, napier second.
Callies H beam 6.300 SBC rods, Diamond Casidium coated pins
Coated pistons, and Morel link bar lifters.
Ceramic coated heads
LME Billet one piece reluctor wheel installation on the 4.8 crank.
Balancing it up, it was actually really close to factory balance, just had to drill very little since this rotating assembly is lighter than factory stuff.
Gapping rings. Total seal AP steel top, napier second.
Callies H beam 6.300 SBC rods, Diamond Casidium coated pins
Coated pistons, and Morel link bar lifters.
Ceramic coated heads