Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Enough Room for s91??????? Stock radiator and condensor moved forward.....

Old 08-15-2012, 08:42 AM
  #1  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
 
mrstepheneades's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Statesville, NC
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts

Default Enough Room for s91??????? Stock radiator and condensor moved forward.....

First off the plan is,

This fall build a 408 for boost. And have it done by spring sometime.

Then over the summer get my turbo stuff together.
Plan is to run a s91. At the moment i am low on funds and just wanted to go ahead and do something to futher help my project so decided to move the radiator up.

Plan is to keep ac with setup.

only mod required to ac will be to lengthen high pressure line about seven or eight inches. Bottom line will still reach fine....

The question is judging by pics provided can i fit a s91 in there???

Or 88 be better???

Currently have stock fans but aftermarkets are an option if more room is needed.

I realize the mod is a little dirty and stuff now but no grinding or paint or covering has been done yet.

ill try to post another few pics with measurements for better judgement....

And may try to figure out how to put air dam back in to help cooling...

all opinions will be appreciated.
Old 08-15-2012, 08:44 AM
  #2  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
 
mrstepheneades's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Statesville, NC
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts

Default







Old 08-15-2012, 08:52 AM
  #3  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (21)
 
95maroz28's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 20 Likes on 20 Posts

Default

you going to put it on the left or right side? id try to keep the air damn for cooling.

I originally started making my hotside to keep ac but ended up pulling it for a truck manifold.
Attached Thumbnails Enough Room for s91??????? Stock radiator and condensor moved forward.....-turbox.jpg   Enough Room for s91??????? Stock radiator and condensor moved forward.....-turbo.jpg  
Old 08-15-2012, 08:58 AM
  #4  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
 
mrstepheneades's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Statesville, NC
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Seen guys put in battery location. And keep ac somehow. Just not sureyet
Old 08-15-2012, 08:59 AM
  #5  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
 
mrstepheneades's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Statesville, NC
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Like to do tube headers but may get expensive
Old 08-15-2012, 09:05 AM
  #6  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (22)
 
SPRAYED 01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northwest side of Chicago
Posts: 3,677
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

That is going to be tough with any puller fans. Also what are you doing with the dp? Is it a 5inch?
Old 08-15-2012, 10:40 AM
  #7  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
 
mrstepheneades's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Statesville, NC
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

plan on doing turbo kmember but if gets to complicated may just through it out the side lol
Old 08-15-2012, 11:09 AM
  #8  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
 
mrstepheneades's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Statesville, NC
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

seen spal makes pullers only 2" thick....... dont know if they be strong enough though
Old 08-15-2012, 11:17 AM
  #9  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (22)
 
SPRAYED 01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northwest side of Chicago
Posts: 3,677
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

The thin spals pullers can not keep up with the ac on. It will over heat.

Here an idea I want to try. Run a 5inch dp out the front bumper. Put a boost actuated valve on a large cut out and connect it to a normal 3inch pipe that will hook up to your cat back. When you get into boost it opens and goes out the front bumper,at idle and cruising it comes out the back. Best of both worlds
Old 08-15-2012, 11:27 AM
  #10  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
 
mrstepheneades's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Statesville, NC
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Yeah that be pretty cool
Old 08-15-2012, 11:42 AM
  #11  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
 
PUNISHER TA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Fenton, MI
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SPRAYED 01
The thin spals pullers can not keep up with the ac on. It will over heat.

Here an idea I want to try. Run a 5inch dp out the front bumper. Put a boost actuated valve on a large cut out and connect it to a normal 3inch pipe that will hook up to your cat back. When you get into boost it opens and goes out the front bumper,at idle and cruising it comes out the back. Best of both worlds
I dont have anything to add towards the OP's question, but a 3" cutout to the back is easy, but you would need a 5" cutout to close the exhaust out the front bumper... How are you thinking to make that work?

I am not being devils advocate for the hell of it, I have been brainstorming to make this idea work, never thought to make it boost actuated, that is cool, what would you use to close the 5"?

I have found a 5" cutout on soem diesel performance site, but I'm pretty sure ive seen pictures of turbo cars melting(bending) the valve on a e-cutout, also, I haven't had great luck with them sealing perfectly, and gives it a leak sound..
Old 08-15-2012, 12:36 PM
  #12  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
 
mrstepheneades's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Statesville, NC
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts

Default







Old 08-15-2012, 07:51 PM
  #13  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (12)
 
I_Need_Land's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 490
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

good luck. im using 6.0 manis, s91, and its damn close to the water pump, and i had my rad notched... yea well. i had to completely remove it since the turbo was touching the fins, ive got a 3" radiator though...

this was pre removal of rad support...
Old 08-15-2012, 07:59 PM
  #14  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
 
mrstepheneades's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Statesville, NC
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Yea wanna keep ac but if becomes to expensive it will go and ill get pusher fans and move radiator up few more inches. I like that intake. How was fitment on that?
Old 08-15-2012, 08:47 PM
  #15  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (12)
 
LS1NOVA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Minneapolis,MN
Posts: 2,269
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts

Default

I just finished the turbo kit on this one:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...7-e85-t56.html

88mm, ac, tubular k, stock radiator position. You should have plenty of room and you can do a 4" downpipe out the back on the drivers side.
Old 08-15-2012, 10:12 PM
  #16  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (28)
 
Cam72aro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sugar Land, Tx
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Look at my build thread in my sig. . .
Old 08-15-2012, 11:11 PM
  #17  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (47)
 
FasTimeSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

aint gonna happen
Old 08-15-2012, 11:17 PM
  #18  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (22)
 
SPRAYED 01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northwest side of Chicago
Posts: 3,677
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Yes you would have to get a 5 inch cut out. Then a vacum actuator,a 5 inch blade,a flange. Its an idea now but possible. Sound performance sells a 4 inch boost activated cut out for about $500 bucks
Old 08-16-2012, 07:34 AM
  #19  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
 
mrstepheneades's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Statesville, NC
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Cam72aro
Look at my build thread in my sig. . .
yeah i been watching your build. Just not sure i can pull off the welding of cast to stainless and not have a cracked up mess. Im no pro at fabbing things up as you can see in my radiator job lol. Yours looks awesome though.
Old 08-16-2012, 07:39 AM
  #20  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (28)
 
Cam72aro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sugar Land, Tx
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by mrstepheneades
yeah i been watching your build. Just not sure i can pull off the welding of cast to stainless and not have a cracked up mess. Im no pro at fabbing things up as you can see in my radiator job lol. Yours looks awesome though.
Thanks man. Honestly its not hard welding stainless to cast Its actually cast steel and doesn't have the impurities that cast iron does. People think its really hard to weld. Its not, I did it with my little hobart 140 mig welder. Ideally I would have liked to do it with a tig, but the only one I have access to is at my dads 40 miles away so I did the mig. You learn how to fab and weld with experience, take your time and plan thing out before you final weld it. Tack it, if its not right cut the tack and redo it. The radiator mounts don't look bad, you just need some practice. You will get there, just take your time.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Enough Room for s91??????? Stock radiator and condensor moved forward.....



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:22 PM.