The BIGGEST BADDEST air intake for turbos!
09-05-2012, 02:45 PM
#1
The BIGGEST BADDEST air intake for turbos! Check out what just showed up on my doorstep!
Its a 6" U-Build-It Air intake kit from Airaid intakes! Its made from a roto-molded composite, and has a super smooth inside finish. You cut it for whatever angles you need. Its great for insulating engine bay heat away from the incoming air... My old aluminum tube would burn my hand after long drives!!
That filter has a 6" inlet, and flows nearly 4000 CFM!!
My compressor housing is out getting polished today, so I should be able to mock something up tomorrow!
They have these in 3, 3.5, 4, 5, & 6" tube sizes, with filters and couplers to match!
P.S. --- It would be kinda cool for someone to make the intercooler tubing out of this stuff. All the ends have a "bead roll" so the silicone wont slip off. The only issue I could see is finding a way to mount the BOV, but you could add a small piece of alum tube for that. Has anyone ever done something similar? I'm also wondering if those "plastic welders" you can get at harbor freight could allow you to "weld" the pieces together instead of using couplers...?
Its a 6" U-Build-It Air intake kit from Airaid intakes! Its made from a roto-molded composite, and has a super smooth inside finish. You cut it for whatever angles you need. Its great for insulating engine bay heat away from the incoming air... My old aluminum tube would burn my hand after long drives!!
That filter has a 6" inlet, and flows nearly 4000 CFM!!
My compressor housing is out getting polished today, so I should be able to mock something up tomorrow!
They have these in 3, 3.5, 4, 5, & 6" tube sizes, with filters and couplers to match!
P.S. --- It would be kinda cool for someone to make the intercooler tubing out of this stuff. All the ends have a "bead roll" so the silicone wont slip off. The only issue I could see is finding a way to mount the BOV, but you could add a small piece of alum tube for that. Has anyone ever done something similar? I'm also wondering if those "plastic welders" you can get at harbor freight could allow you to "weld" the pieces together instead of using couplers...?
Last edited by KILLER-LS1; 09-05-2012 at 04:33 PM.
09-05-2012, 03:55 PM
#3
well I know people use them on PVC and water lines, surely if it can hold a couple PSI of water, it should work for air? I have no idea how much water pressure is in a household system...
and yeah they are super nice quality. unlike the other brand filters that I've had, these are made from urethane, not rubber, and they have an additional synthetic layer to keep the oil from wicking down the intake tube
and yeah they are super nice quality. unlike the other brand filters that I've had, these are made from urethane, not rubber, and they have an additional synthetic layer to keep the oil from wicking down the intake tube
Last edited by KILLER-LS1; 09-05-2012 at 05:45 PM.
09-05-2012, 04:07 PM
#4
what kind of turbo setup do u have that has boost in the inlet of the turbo?
09-05-2012, 04:31 PM
#7
Im not planning on doing so btw, i would just be neat to see it on a street car. it would be no different than buying aluminum pieces and using couplers to make the cold side...
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09-05-2012, 04:46 PM
#8
It all depends on the base resin that the tubing is made out of....
I am a plastics/mechanical engineer and deal with this all the time.
Only some resins/plastics can be reheated and bonded without degrading the material itself.
Normally, high pressure (1,000-10,000) is needed to "pack" the plastic to make the bonds strong and hold up to pressures.
Just using a plastic welder to reheat the base material is not going to be strong and you will not get a homogenous bond of the two pieces.
Think of plastic welding as gluing two steel pips together...not very strong...
I am a plastics/mechanical engineer and deal with this all the time.
Only some resins/plastics can be reheated and bonded without degrading the material itself.
Normally, high pressure (1,000-10,000) is needed to "pack" the plastic to make the bonds strong and hold up to pressures.
Just using a plastic welder to reheat the base material is not going to be strong and you will not get a homogenous bond of the two pieces.
Think of plastic welding as gluing two steel pips together...not very strong...
09-05-2012, 04:53 PM
#9
ah gotcha, that makes sense. Well there goes that idea haha.
anyways... im excited to get this thing mocked up. with 4000cfm i dont think I'll ever need a bigger filter! LOL.
the filter actually has a stainless steel threaded insert in the top so you can support if from both sides. I thought that was kinda cool. I might weld a tab near the fender area that it can also bolt to.
anyways... im excited to get this thing mocked up. with 4000cfm i dont think I'll ever need a bigger filter! LOL.
the filter actually has a stainless steel threaded insert in the top so you can support if from both sides. I thought that was kinda cool. I might weld a tab near the fender area that it can also bolt to.
09-05-2012, 05:31 PM
#11
this was the old setup
fuse boxes were moved. Its extremely easy... You unclip the fuseboxes from the frame and move them out of the way. Then you cut out the "floor" that was underneath the fuses. Then you can just push the fuses toward your foglight, and now you have room! I dont know why everyone needs to extend the harness to do it... ??
09-06-2012, 06:41 AM
#16
09-06-2012, 06:43 AM
#17
well maybe not with welding, but I see no problem using the couplers... The tubing is significantly stronger than my aluminum tube...
Im not planning on doing so btw, i would just be neat to see it on a street car. it would be no different than buying aluminum pieces and using couplers to make the cold side...
Im not planning on doing so btw, i would just be neat to see it on a street car. it would be no different than buying aluminum pieces and using couplers to make the cold side...
Be intresting to see this tested. How much dose it weigh compeared to ally pipe?
Chris.
09-06-2012, 08:19 AM
#18
9 Second Club
Your old filter looks bigger than the new one ?
And whilst plastic might appear strong....try tightening a T-Bolt clamp onto it and placing it in a hot engine bay....I suspect the plastic wont be that great.
T-bolts can even squash and deform aluminium pipe ( as you've already experienced )
And whilst plastic might appear strong....try tightening a T-Bolt clamp onto it and placing it in a hot engine bay....I suspect the plastic wont be that great.
T-bolts can even squash and deform aluminium pipe ( as you've already experienced )
