Decided how to blow my money. Forged 347 w/ AFR heads, D1SC
11-29-2012, 05:12 PM
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Decided how to blow my money. Forged 347 w/ AFR heads, D1SC Well, I've got a deployment coming up in a few months, and I'm currently planning out a build that I want, so I can leave it with a shop to start installing parts as the money rolls in. After a lot of build plans, I decided I will not ever finally be satisfied unless I have some kind of boost. The most important thing in mind here is I do NOT want to hack up my car in any way, that pretty much eliminates any turbos, because I am not cutting the frame to vertical mount my radiator. Also, I can't have a FMIC, because I prefer not to cut out the bumper behind the front plate holder. I don't care about the fogs, so that's not an issue.
This leaves me with the D1SC dual intercooler option being the best bet for me. I want the build to be as daily driver friendly and reliable as possible, yet make some mean numbers for the street. So here is what I have come up with:
(347 Rotating Assembly from TSP)
New Stock crank
Callies H-Beam w/ ARP 2000 bolts
Wiseco -3.2cc piston
Coated Clevite Main & Rod bearings
Stock GM headgasket, maybe LS9 gasket.
Melling Hi-Pressure oil pump
AFR 225cc 72cc as cast heads (w/ ARP head studs)
AFR dual valve spring
Brute Speed Blower cam (232/240 .595/.608 115)
Stock rockers, trunion upgrade
Comp hardened pushrods (will have to check length)
SLP double roller timing set.
Stock LS6 Intake
Truck D585 heatsink ignition coils
8-rib D1SC w/ Dual intercooler option
Aster bracket
80lb Injector upgrade
Helical gearset (I WANT it as quiet as possible)
Walbro fuel pump included
(Is an aftermarket fuel rail necessary??)
Should be about a 9.5:1 SCR. I do not want to run a methanol injection, and want to run 93 octane safely (even 91 octane, sometimes it's all I can find at certain places). I'm not looking for a particular boost number, but I think I'd be happy with around 650rwhp, or more. I'm confident this is more than possible with a good tune. I want the car to be a street beast, without anything over 6700 rpms, and can kick *** at the 1/8th mile if needed.
I already have a Moser 9" rear end, with 4.11's, and a 3" Strange chromoly driveshaft. The 4.11's will get traded for some 3.73s more than likely. My transmission is stock, and will see some "Stage 2" upgrades, and my clutch is a Monster Stage 2, which will probably get replaced with a Stage 4 clutch.
Are there any decent gauge pods that do NOT mount on the a-pillar, and do not take up the A/C vents? I wouldn't mind one or two A/C vents gone, but not 3. I WILL NOT have a 3 gauge pod on my a-pillar.
Any suggestions on the build, from past experience, or any opinions are open and welcome! Thanks!
This leaves me with the D1SC dual intercooler option being the best bet for me. I want the build to be as daily driver friendly and reliable as possible, yet make some mean numbers for the street. So here is what I have come up with:
(347 Rotating Assembly from TSP)
New Stock crank
Callies H-Beam w/ ARP 2000 bolts
Wiseco -3.2cc piston
Coated Clevite Main & Rod bearings
Stock GM headgasket, maybe LS9 gasket.
Melling Hi-Pressure oil pump
AFR 225cc 72cc as cast heads (w/ ARP head studs)
AFR dual valve spring
Brute Speed Blower cam (232/240 .595/.608 115)
Stock rockers, trunion upgrade
Comp hardened pushrods (will have to check length)
SLP double roller timing set.
Stock LS6 Intake
Truck D585 heatsink ignition coils
8-rib D1SC w/ Dual intercooler option
Aster bracket
80lb Injector upgrade
Helical gearset (I WANT it as quiet as possible)
Walbro fuel pump included
(Is an aftermarket fuel rail necessary??)
Should be about a 9.5:1 SCR. I do not want to run a methanol injection, and want to run 93 octane safely (even 91 octane, sometimes it's all I can find at certain places). I'm not looking for a particular boost number, but I think I'd be happy with around 650rwhp, or more. I'm confident this is more than possible with a good tune. I want the car to be a street beast, without anything over 6700 rpms, and can kick *** at the 1/8th mile if needed.
I already have a Moser 9" rear end, with 4.11's, and a 3" Strange chromoly driveshaft. The 4.11's will get traded for some 3.73s more than likely. My transmission is stock, and will see some "Stage 2" upgrades, and my clutch is a Monster Stage 2, which will probably get replaced with a Stage 4 clutch.
Are there any decent gauge pods that do NOT mount on the a-pillar, and do not take up the A/C vents? I wouldn't mind one or two A/C vents gone, but not 3. I WILL NOT have a 3 gauge pod on my a-pillar.
Any suggestions on the build, from past experience, or any opinions are open and welcome! Thanks!
Last edited by HoLLo; 12-01-2012 at 07:36 PM.
11-29-2012, 07:52 PM
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What is it that you dont like about running a large fmic? If your not going to run meth I would want a fmic. Plus it will leave you more room to grow. If your anything like me 650 hp will feel slow after awhile and you will want more.
11-29-2012, 07:58 PM
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Nothing against the FMIC, but I just prefer not to cut open behind the license plate frame. I don't want to hack too much of my car up...
However, after I posted this, I remembered seeing a thread about someone custom making new license plate frames, that keep the front bird, and have a custom mesh behind it. It looks REALLY sharp, and I would like that, and it would make me more inclined to open up the bumper for a FMIC, but I would still hate cutting up the bumper. After seeing a picture of a car with that custom plate installed over a FMIC, I started to rethink my opinion on that. I will take some time thinking about that aspect.
Another question to add: I am running Pacesetter 1&3/4" longtubes into an x-pipe and dual SLP Loudmouth II mufflers... Will the longtubes be leaving any power on the table? Would I net any HP gain from stepping to 1&7/8" or even 2" headers?
However, after I posted this, I remembered seeing a thread about someone custom making new license plate frames, that keep the front bird, and have a custom mesh behind it. It looks REALLY sharp, and I would like that, and it would make me more inclined to open up the bumper for a FMIC, but I would still hate cutting up the bumper. After seeing a picture of a car with that custom plate installed over a FMIC, I started to rethink my opinion on that. I will take some time thinking about that aspect.
Another question to add: I am running Pacesetter 1&3/4" longtubes into an x-pipe and dual SLP Loudmouth II mufflers... Will the longtubes be leaving any power on the table? Would I net any HP gain from stepping to 1&7/8" or even 2" headers?
11-29-2012, 08:04 PM
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I think if you were doing a max effort d1 setup like 800rwhp then maybe it would be worth going to 1 7/8 headers. you should be fine keeping what you have. 750rwhp would be a cake walk.
11-29-2012, 08:12 PM
#6
What exhaust set up are you going to run ?
I would go with a 8 rib set up on the D1 and get the SDCE spring tensioner or the aster bracket from bob.
Do you have the small storage hole in front of the shifter like the camaro has? This is where I put my wide band gauge.
http://mycarpics.shutterfly.com/283
http://mycarpics.shutterfly.com/282
I would go with a 8 rib set up on the D1 and get the SDCE spring tensioner or the aster bracket from bob.
Do you have the small storage hole in front of the shifter like the camaro has? This is where I put my wide band gauge.
http://mycarpics.shutterfly.com/283
http://mycarpics.shutterfly.com/282
11-29-2012, 08:18 PM
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Sorry, I didn't post my exhaust in my first post, I did in my 2nd post though. I have Pacesetter 1&3/4" longtubes, into an xpipe and dual SLP Loudmouth II mufflers dumped. It will definitely be an 8-rib, and I've been recommended the Aster bracket before, and it's on my list. Guess I should add that to the post.
Where you have your wideband is just my panel for the TCS switch, which I can do without. TCS is worthless on these cars.
Where you have your wideband is just my panel for the TCS switch, which I can do without. TCS is worthless on these cars.
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11-29-2012, 09:38 PM
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How would 10.5:1 affect it's longevity and reliability? Most things I read say is 9.5:1 to 10:1 is ideal.
They're supplied fuel pump is supposed to be an addon so it Y's in with the current pump, making a double. Would that not be sufficient enough? If not, they have an option to add a 2nd pump, and running two of those would work good.
11-29-2012, 11:41 PM
#13
Nothing against the FMIC, but I just prefer not to cut open behind the license plate frame. I don't want to hack too much of my car up...
However, after I posted this, I remembered seeing a thread about someone custom making new license plate frames, that keep the front bird, and have a custom mesh behind it. It looks REALLY sharp, and I would like that, and it would make me more inclined to open up the bumper for a FMIC, but I would still hate cutting up the bumper. After seeing a picture of a car with that custom plate installed over a FMIC, I started to rethink my opinion on that. I will take some time thinking about that aspect.
However, after I posted this, I remembered seeing a thread about someone custom making new license plate frames, that keep the front bird, and have a custom mesh behind it. It looks REALLY sharp, and I would like that, and it would make me more inclined to open up the bumper for a FMIC, but I would still hate cutting up the bumper. After seeing a picture of a car with that custom plate installed over a FMIC, I started to rethink my opinion on that. I will take some time thinking about that aspect.
11-30-2012, 02:11 PM
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Thanks! Would anyone suggest anything different from AFR 225's with this build? I don't want to skimp on the heads, but I'm open to other suggestions.
11-30-2012, 03:11 PM
#18
11-30-2012, 03:14 PM
#19
AFR is an awesome choice in head, I think you can only get the 230cc (V.2) now though. Really even the 225s would be overkill, something in the 215cc would be just fine.
11-30-2012, 03:41 PM
#20
Westtexas did an awesome job. Not to take away from his work but its not that hard to do, need more of a steady hand and proper (painting) materials for it to come out nice. He cut the middle of the cover out and hot glued the mesh to the back. you could make a bird stencil pretty easily too.
AFR 225s are perfect by the way