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5.3L Big Single vs. Twin 76mm

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Old 12-06-2012, 12:36 PM
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Default 5.3L Big Single vs. Twin 76mm

Just another 5.3l with a single 76mm right now, think of two diff setups currently its this right now:

5.3l block
317 heads (cleaned, valves re-seated)
Lunati .660 lift gold spring kit
comp cam chromoly pushrods 7.400"
LS7 lifters
comp cam 235/239 .621/.624 114+4 LSA
B&M holshot 1900 Tight Stall 10.5"

button it all up together

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oo also I changed the wastegate spring to 16 psi. lol

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DONE!




Went to JE Imports dyno day and there dynopack (gayyy) said I made 418whp 584 ft. tq. at 14psi and 21 deg. of timing. To me that sounded dumb retarded because the car does not feel like that. Here's a vid from when I left,




Also on the Dyno graph after 6k rpm my power curve went diving down to 202whp by 6800rpm. ppl were saying your backside is too small or 3in exhaust is too small. I think possibly backside but a 200whp drop??? My friend from FL (5.3l S480 Guy) said he think 99% that im blowing threw the converter. Thoughts on that?

I have my built JW loose stall to go back in so that should take care of the problem if it is one.


Dont know at this point if I should go bigger turbo or twins, still looking into **** but at this point either:

Twin 76mm turbos
edelbrock xt manifold
hot rod headers
92mm big mouth TB
ported heads
gap the piston rings
meth injection
20+ psi


orrrr

BW s480 t6 1.32a/r
4in. intercooler
meth injection
15-20 psi
Slicks
exhaust side only ported heads
stock intake mani. or ls6
92mm tb
stock truck headers

wierd as it sounds the twin setup is shy couple hundred dollars more then the single setup. were talking 2-300 bucks maybe. what you guys think?
Old 12-06-2012, 12:50 PM
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Bet if you got rid of that converter and put a more friendly cam in you'd be happier with it.
Old 12-06-2012, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by T/A KID
Bet if you got rid of that converter and put a more friendly cam in you'd be happier with it.

Explain...
Old 12-06-2012, 01:24 PM
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I agree, fix it and then decide what you want to do.
Old 12-06-2012, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jridenour31
I agree, fix it and then decide what you want to do.
besides putting the built converter back in, everything else is fine. Im at the stage where I want to upgrade to a bigger or turbo or twins. Alsolike the dynopack said i lost 200 whp after 6k you do not feel that what so ever when making a pull. You can feel it losing a little power but not 200whp.
Old 12-06-2012, 03:39 PM
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A 480 vs twin 76s?? That is different realms
Old 12-06-2012, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1 240sx
Just another 5.3l with a single 76mm right now, think of two diff setups currently its this right now:

5.3l block
317 heads (cleaned, valves re-seated)
Lunati .660 lift gold spring kit
comp cam chromoly pushrods 7.400"
LS7 lifters
comp cam 235/239 .621/.624 114+4 LSA
B&M holshot 1900 Tight Stall 10.5"

button it all up together



oo also I changed the wastegate spring to 16 psi. lol





DONE!




Went to JE Imports dyno day and there dynopack (gayyy) said I made 418whp 584 ft. tq. at 14psi and 21 deg. of timing. To me that sounded dumb retarded because the car does not feel like that. Here's a vid from when I left,




Also on the Dyno graph after 6k rpm my power curve went diving down to 202whp by 6800rpm. ppl were saying your backside is too small or 3in exhaust is too small. I think possibly backside but a 200whp drop??? My friend from FL (5.3l S480 Guy) said he think 99% that im blowing threw the converter. Thoughts on that?

I have my built JW loose stall to go back in so that should take care of the problem if it is one.


Dont know at this point if I should go bigger turbo or twins, still looking into **** but at this point either:

Twin 76mm turbos
edelbrock xt manifold
hot rod headers
92mm big mouth TB
ported heads
gap the piston rings
meth injection
20+ psi


orrrr

BW s480 t6 1.32a/r
4in. intercooler
meth injection
15-20 psi
Slicks
exhaust side only ported heads
stock intake mani. or ls6
92mm tb
stock truck headers

wierd as it sounds the twin setup is shy couple hundred dollars more then the single setup. were talking 2-300 bucks maybe. what you guys think?
I had my Chevelle there and took quite a few pics of the LS powered cars. Don't remember seeing your car there.
Old 12-06-2012, 05:07 PM
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I dont doubt you lost big power.

The evo on your cam doesnt match well with the small turbine side of that turbo. Its a recipe for excessive backpressure. Excessive backpressue will kill power every time.

The cam is too big... mainly in the IVC event and the overlap. Thats a camshaft i would grind for a 402 twin turbo stroker setup that would make 1100 rear wheel. You can make it work better though.

Do the twin 76's and advance the cam 2-4 more degrees if possible. The twins will work very well with that exhaust valve open point. The 2-4 degrees earlier that the intake valve will be closing will help build more dynamic compression as well.

Ideally... id send the cam back to comp and ask them to regrind the intake lobe with the 226 LXL lobe and run that with the twin turbos.
Old 12-08-2012, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 99VetteFRC
I had my Chevelle there and took quite a few pics of the LS powered cars. Don't remember seeing your car there.
I got there around 1pm I didnt get on the dyno till about 2:30pm.

Originally Posted by LilJohn
I dont doubt you lost big power.

The evo on your cam doesnt match well with the small turbine side of that turbo. Its a recipe for excessive backpressure. Excessive backpressue will kill power every time.

The cam is too big... mainly in the IVC event and the overlap. Thats a camshaft i would grind for a 402 twin turbo stroker setup that would make 1100 rear wheel. You can make it work better though.

Do the twin 76's and advance the cam 2-4 more degrees if possible. The twins will work very well with that exhaust valve open point. The 2-4 degrees earlier that the intake valve will be closing will help build more dynamic compression as well.

Ideally... id send the cam back to comp and ask them to regrind the intake lobe with the 226 LXL lobe and run that with the twin turbos.
I know I have 9 degrees advance overlap but ive seen other ppl's with more overlap making alot of power.

I have a adjustable cam gear, if I advance it 2-4 degrees on the single 76mm will it make a diff. in more power? if so, how much more should I gain?

I know about cam specs but not fully.
Old 12-08-2012, 01:21 PM
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If you advance it more the evo will be sooner and only compounding your BP issues.
Old 12-08-2012, 01:32 PM
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How did the other cars that were there do on the dyno? If yours was the only one that seemed really low then there is something wrong with the car. If everyones #s were really low then its the dyno.

What are the goals for the car? Do you really want to contend with a 5" downpipe or the mess of having to redo your kit. I say put the right cam, converter, & make sure the tune is good. Then drive and enjoy it.
Old 12-09-2012, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by silver_82
How did the other cars that were there do on the dyno? If yours was the only one that seemed really low then there is something wrong with the car. If everyones #s were really low then its the dyno.

What are the goals for the car? Do you really want to contend with a 5" downpipe or the mess of having to redo your kit. I say put the right cam, converter, & make sure the tune is good. Then drive and enjoy it.


No ones car was reading right, only car that kinda read right was a civic, then the civic turned it to 39 psi and the dyno maxxed out and blanked out.


I want to stop at around 900whp. iknow I can get the single or twins but it seems that the twin setups make stupid more power. plus the cost is nearly the same. I have a adjustable cam gear so that will be going in along with my built jw loose stall. Will let you guys know the result.
Old 12-09-2012, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by T/A KID
Bet if you got rid of that converter and put a more friendly cam in you'd be happier with it.
That and get rid of the 317's.
I wouldnt run one of those converters behind a 200hp setup... those things are pure junk. get rid of that thing...lol.
Is this a stock shortblock 5.3? if so the thing will fly apart before the twin 76's ever got in their working range.
Old 12-10-2012, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by pwrtrip75
That and get rid of the 317's.
I wouldnt run one of those converters behind a 200hp setup... those things are pure junk. get rid of that thing...lol.
Is this a stock shortblock 5.3? if so the thing will fly apart before the twin 76's ever got in their working range.
lol, yea im hearing more and more crappy things about this converter but for 80 bucks it wasnt bad I wanted drivability but F**K that, Im def. taking it out it doesnt suit with my cam at all. I miss my loose stall, time to switch it out its just soooo cold outside.


honestly I dont have much lag at all with the 317's, addition to that I haven't seen any knock at all. Maybe cuz my cars lighter? dunno but boost comes in nice and sets your *** in your seat, only in 3rd. After I did that big burnout 1st and 2nd are useless.

So 1203hp isnt in working range for those twins?
Old 12-10-2012, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by pwrtrip75
That and get rid of the 317's.
I wouldnt run one of those converters behind a 200hp setup... those things are pure junk. get rid of that thing...lol.
Is this a stock shortblock 5.3? if so the thing will fly apart before the twin 76's ever got in their working range.
What is bad about the 317's? What is recommended?
Old 12-10-2012, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1 240sx
So 1203hp isnt in working range for those twins?
If you think you are capable of duplicating the hot rod build (1203hp)then go for it, but you had better know whats envolved. Theres more too it than thowing another snail on the other side.

You are having issues with your current setup and rather than fix them you think it would be easier to redo the whole thing. What are you going to do when the big single or twins dont deliver the power you want because you never fixed the root problem.

I dont think you are ready to build a 1200hp setup, it doesnt seem like you have much experience, a "loose" converter and "adjustable cam gear" are not going to fix the issue of wrong cam & converter. Im sorry if this seems blunt but I think you need to learn to walk before you run
Old 12-10-2012, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BadAsZ
What is bad about the 317's? What is recommended?
Nothing is wrong with 317 heads, but putting them on a 5.3 will lower the comp ratio and can cause lagging for some.
Old 12-10-2012, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by silver_82
If you think you are capable of duplicating the hot rod build (1203hp)then go for it, but you had better know whats envolved. Theres more too it than thowing another snail on the other side.

You are having issues with your current setup and rather than fix them you think it would be easier to redo the whole thing. What are you going to do when the big single or twins dont deliver the power you want because you never fixed the root problem.

I dont think you are ready to build a 1200hp setup, it doesnt seem like you have much experience, a "loose" converter and "adjustable cam gear" are not going to fix the issue of wrong cam & converter. Im sorry if this seems blunt but I think you need to learn to walk before you run
Nowhere does it say that Im going to 1200hp, My statement was in response to what pwrtrip said about " Is this a stock shortblock 5.3? if so the thing will fly apart before the twin 76's ever got in their working range"

My vocab may not be the best but I have a good idea about whats going on in my motor, may not be all of it but thats the part of learning right? I know enough to not blow it up and I got the cam because it was a steal deal and I wanted a choppy idle. Anything wrong with that? If this cam wont work then fine I will get the right one.

Wow, this forum is only useful for info unless your super god smart about LS motors, give the little guy a break before you jump to conclusion next time. Not being a dick just being blunt.
Old 12-10-2012, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BadAsZ
What is bad about the 317's? What is recommended?
I can feel the low end drop but after tuning and tuning I was able to make low end acceptable to where it felt somewhat stock.
Old 12-10-2012, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1 240sx
lol, yea im hearing more and more crappy things about this converter but for 80 bucks it wasnt bad I wanted drivability but F**K that, Im def. taking it out it doesnt suit with my cam at all. I miss my loose stall, time to switch it out its just soooo cold outside.


honestly I dont have much lag at all with the 317's, addition to that I haven't seen any knock at all. Maybe cuz my cars lighter? dunno but boost comes in nice and sets your *** in your seat, only in 3rd. After I did that big burnout 1st and 2nd are useless.

So 1203hp isnt in working range for those twins?
YOU could get a good converter that still has a decent stall, I bet once yours starts getting into boost it acts as a power regulator, blowing through the converter, half your power is not even making it to the tranny. Your higher stall is making the 317s work ok. But for the difference that they flow compared to 5.3 heads I personally think the response and faster spool is better for driveability... for the fraction of HP you gain with a higher flowing 317, you probably dont gain anything because of the lag. And if you want the 5.3 heads to flow the same.... add a half a pound of boost.

Are you really going for 1203hp with a stock 5.3? You never said if it was stock shortblock? ...maybe I just assumed.. ? What trans?

Originally Posted by 1BadAsZ
What is bad about the 317's? What is recommended?
Nothing bad.. I just assumed he has these on a stock shortblock. ??
Also sounds like he is concerned about drivability, low compression doesnt gain you anything unless you are limited to 87 octane. Just causes the engine when out of boost to be real laggy and spool up time is delayed.
I ran a bone stock 6.0 w/ a GT45 on 93 octane at 15psi and 22 degrees of timing with no issues at all... So why you'd need to lower the compression I would not know.


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