Rebuild on my Whipple'd forged LS3 has begun.
01-16-2013, 12:19 PM
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Rebuild on my Whipple'd forged LS3 has begun. Here's my LS3 at Pfaff Engines in Huntington Beach CA awaiting its rebuild.
Engine was dropped by the guys at Cunningham Motor Sports in Murietta CA and will be tuned by Ryne once refitted. They're also fitting an ADM twin fuel pump kit and rear bushes while they're at it and have been excellent in helping select the right parts and configuring everything working alongside the guys at Pfaff.
Parts list includes: Callie Rods, Moly Pistons and Rings, ARP Mains Bolts and Head Studs, Comp Cams Rough Idle Blower Cam, Valve Springs, Push Rods, LS7 Lifters, CNC'd Heads, 102mm Throttle Body, Whipple 8 Rib Pulley Kit with 3.5" Blower Pulley and Innovators West Balancer, Melling High Volume Oil Pump.
Existing includes: Whipple, FIC 80lb Billet Tip Injectors, RX Monster Catch Can, Mantic Clutch, GTO Clutch Reservoir, Tik Performance Clutch Line and Remote Bleeder, CAI Intake, ADM Race Scoop, 1" 7/8 Headers, 3" Exhaust, Hurst Shifter.
Pfaff have been building some of the toughest racing marine, trophy truck and sand buggy engines in SoCal for 40 years! My engine is tame compared to the 1600 + HP things they build. If you like serious horsepower check out their FB page: http://www.facebook.com/PfaffandBaca?ref=ts&fref=ts
Anyone that can build an engine of that sort of power that can sit on redline for long periods of time and withstand the harsh conditions pounding through the ocean or over sand dunes have my vote of confidence!
Throw in the on-street expertise of CMS and Ryne's excellent tuning abilities and I'm grinning from ear to ear. Can't wait!
Engine was dropped by the guys at Cunningham Motor Sports in Murietta CA and will be tuned by Ryne once refitted. They're also fitting an ADM twin fuel pump kit and rear bushes while they're at it and have been excellent in helping select the right parts and configuring everything working alongside the guys at Pfaff.
Parts list includes: Callie Rods, Moly Pistons and Rings, ARP Mains Bolts and Head Studs, Comp Cams Rough Idle Blower Cam, Valve Springs, Push Rods, LS7 Lifters, CNC'd Heads, 102mm Throttle Body, Whipple 8 Rib Pulley Kit with 3.5" Blower Pulley and Innovators West Balancer, Melling High Volume Oil Pump.
Existing includes: Whipple, FIC 80lb Billet Tip Injectors, RX Monster Catch Can, Mantic Clutch, GTO Clutch Reservoir, Tik Performance Clutch Line and Remote Bleeder, CAI Intake, ADM Race Scoop, 1" 7/8 Headers, 3" Exhaust, Hurst Shifter.
Pfaff have been building some of the toughest racing marine, trophy truck and sand buggy engines in SoCal for 40 years! My engine is tame compared to the 1600 + HP things they build. If you like serious horsepower check out their FB page: http://www.facebook.com/PfaffandBaca?ref=ts&fref=ts
Anyone that can build an engine of that sort of power that can sit on redline for long periods of time and withstand the harsh conditions pounding through the ocean or over sand dunes have my vote of confidence!
Throw in the on-street expertise of CMS and Ryne's excellent tuning abilities and I'm grinning from ear to ear. Can't wait!
03-01-2013, 05:30 PM
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Staying with stock cubes ... Had to draw the line somewhere. Didn't end up doing heads (went for comp grind but not CNC) and throttle body (can do that later).
Decided to be content with staying around 700rwhp and spend the money on things to make it stronger and more reliable like ARP bolts, Melling HV oil pump, Mantic twin plate clutch, 8 rib pulley kit and ADM twin fuel pump.
03-01-2013, 06:28 PM
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Yeah it should be pretty bullet proof. Gordy Jennings from Pfaff is the most hard core engine builder I've ever met. Most of his engines end up in racing boats, high performance open water powerboats, trophy trucks or sand buggies. He's been doing it there for over 15-20 years I believe. He was 7 times national champion in K-Boat class and was known as "Mr K-Boat".
Anyone that can build an engine that can put out 1800hp and sit on redline in harsh conditions for long lengths of time has my vote. AND do that when you are the one who'll be sitting a few inches in front of the thing screaming on water. Crazy!
It is a Comp Cams rough idle blower cam ... but its a variation of ... a custom grind by Ryne Cunningham at Cunningham Motorsports.
Send him a PM if you're interested. I'll be posting the dyno run once its done too, so you'll see the numbers.
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03-13-2013, 10:35 AM
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OK ... here's the carnage ... broken ring lands in 3 out of 4 pistons on the driver's side.
So Ryne at CMS called me yesterday ... he figured out why the driver's side bank ran lean and broke 3 out of 4 ring lands.
The Whipple kit feeds fuel into the passenger's side fuel rail then loops into the driver's side rail with hoses front and rear. Problem is the internal diameter of the connectors is only about 3/16".
We all know that the stock SS pump is notorious for not keeping up at WOT ... even with a the supplied MSD BAP. So what happens ... fuel pressure runs low and favors the passenger side and starves the driver side.
Easy fix ... remove and block the original fitting and install larger fittings to the front (or rear) of the fuel rails and feed them directly from a Y-connector. Keep the loop at the other end. That way you are totally sure that both rails are getting an even feed.
Now it probably would have been OK with my new ADM twin pump kit ... but why risk it when it is such a simple fix. I'm thinking it should also make tuning easier / more accurate too as injectors will all be getting an equal feed.
Thanks Ryne!
So Ryne at CMS called me yesterday ... he figured out why the driver's side bank ran lean and broke 3 out of 4 ring lands.
The Whipple kit feeds fuel into the passenger's side fuel rail then loops into the driver's side rail with hoses front and rear. Problem is the internal diameter of the connectors is only about 3/16".
We all know that the stock SS pump is notorious for not keeping up at WOT ... even with a the supplied MSD BAP. So what happens ... fuel pressure runs low and favors the passenger side and starves the driver side.
Easy fix ... remove and block the original fitting and install larger fittings to the front (or rear) of the fuel rails and feed them directly from a Y-connector. Keep the loop at the other end. That way you are totally sure that both rails are getting an even feed.
Now it probably would have been OK with my new ADM twin pump kit ... but why risk it when it is such a simple fix. I'm thinking it should also make tuning easier / more accurate too as injectors will all be getting an equal feed.
Thanks Ryne!
04-10-2013, 11:58 AM
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Errrrrghhhhhhhh! ... I want to drive the bloody thing!!!!!!
