How are these stock 5.3 staying together
#1
How are these stock 5.3 staying together
After putting new bearings and re gaping the rings on a stock 5.3,
(king bearings $80 for complete set) (clevite cam bearings)
I hand ported a set of 241, threw a stock 06 gto cam and a pt 88 turbo,
This thing runs its *** off and I mean it runs for 18psi of boost for now, I have all intentions of pushing 22-25psi once its all dialed in on the 18psi.
When I mic'd all the bearings I came up with 1.2-1.5 on the rods and 1.8-2.0 on the mains, lil tighter then I would have liked but these stock never touch engines where living so I went with it.
Im running e85 18deg and 18psi for now, I have about 200 miles on the engine at this time, changing the oil last night and cutting the filter apart I found a decent amount of bearing material in the filter nothing real big but the size of a sprinkle like a cup cake sprinkles (lol)
hot start the engine holds 55psi and at wot it see around 80psi at 6k
20/50vr1 oil,
If it was a built engine it would be coming out but for less then $600 I plan on running it,
How are the bone stock never touched engines living if GM specs are even tighter then what I put this one together with?
(king bearings $80 for complete set) (clevite cam bearings)
I hand ported a set of 241, threw a stock 06 gto cam and a pt 88 turbo,
This thing runs its *** off and I mean it runs for 18psi of boost for now, I have all intentions of pushing 22-25psi once its all dialed in on the 18psi.
When I mic'd all the bearings I came up with 1.2-1.5 on the rods and 1.8-2.0 on the mains, lil tighter then I would have liked but these stock never touch engines where living so I went with it.
Im running e85 18deg and 18psi for now, I have about 200 miles on the engine at this time, changing the oil last night and cutting the filter apart I found a decent amount of bearing material in the filter nothing real big but the size of a sprinkle like a cup cake sprinkles (lol)
hot start the engine holds 55psi and at wot it see around 80psi at 6k
20/50vr1 oil,
If it was a built engine it would be coming out but for less then $600 I plan on running it,
How are the bone stock never touched engines living if GM specs are even tighter then what I put this one together with?
#2
That is a pretty thick oil for these clearances. Yes they build them tight but if you boosted one that was new I bet it would blow up quickly. I think the fact that we are boosting them with high mileage so things have loosened up is why they hold together. My current engine has over 180,000 miles and I didn't touch it. Threw my cam in it and went. So far its lasted 7 months and several 25lbs of boost highway pulls. Even spiked to 30lbs a couple times. I currently have it turned down to 15lbs though.
#6
Are you seeing the oil pressure bounce at all during idle or mid throttle?
When I had bearing failure, I saw the oil pressure bounce up and down a few PSI.
As the RPM went up, the needle on the oil pressure gauge bounced faster.
Maybe tear it apart and do fix it now before it turns into a postmortem...
When I had bearing failure, I saw the oil pressure bounce up and down a few PSI.
As the RPM went up, the needle on the oil pressure gauge bounced faster.
Maybe tear it apart and do fix it now before it turns into a postmortem...
#7
Staging Lane
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: West Texas
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Nothing better than a good old 5.3 puttin down serious power. I'm also building a 5.3 with a 76mm turbo. I'm running stock heads that are currently getting a valve job and i replaced the bearings and gapped the top ring. Can't wait to hear this thing run!
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#12
TECH Fanatic
Yeah my 5.3 is amazing me on only 14psi. Building a stroker, and wonder will it live as long? Will that balancer work with truck access, what size is it?
#15
Im very particular about my engines warming up before they even move.
yes it was a lot tighter then I wanted it but figured it was looser the a factory engine specs.
I wish I could pull the pan with out pulling the engine just to see if its really that bad or not
yes it was a lot tighter then I wanted it but figured it was looser the a factory engine specs.
I wish I could pull the pan with out pulling the engine just to see if its really that bad or not
#16
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mehhhh. i personally run them that tight with no issues at all. but that is thick ******* oil. you could prolly get away with 10-40 rotella easy lol. I see more cam bearing toast in the ls engines that i rebuild...#4 is the main culperate. it gets starved for oil. heats up. when you shut the car off it shrinks to the cam, and spins on the next start up. funny thing though... never hurts the block. I have two that i just put new bearing in, and didnt line hone them... have over 100k since overhaul. how did the cam spin when you slid it in?
#20
mehhhh. i personally run them that tight with no issues at all. but that is thick ******* oil. you could prolly get away with 10-40 rotella easy lol. I see more cam bearing toast in the ls engines that i rebuild...#4 is the main culperate. it gets starved for oil. heats up. when you shut the car off it shrinks to the cam, and spins on the next start up. funny thing though... never hurts the block. I have two that i just put new bearing in, and didnt line hone them... have over 100k since overhaul. how did the cam spin when you slid it in?
I let my cars run for 10-15mins before they ever move to make sure there is some decent amount of heat in things