JGS Fire Ring
04-30-2013, 10:01 AM
#1
JGS Fire Ring I found a metal ring in my JGS 50mm WG box and I think it's the "fire ring". Can someone explain how it's installed? From what little info I could find online, I think it goes on the inlet side and gets sandwiched in between the v-bands, and it's supposed to open the gate slightly but it makes a seal against the valve? Is this correct?
Also does anyone know what spring comes in the this wastegate? I think it came with one other spring but there are no labels or directions. I couldn't for the life of me get the snap ring off to check the spring that's in there already
Also does anyone know what spring comes in the this wastegate? I think it came with one other spring but there are no labels or directions. I couldn't for the life of me get the snap ring off to check the spring that's in there already
05-03-2013, 02:25 PM
#4
I just changed mine out.
I used a large harbor frieght C-Clamp to compress/hold the housing together. I put the assembly in a vise, holding the c-clamp for stability. I tried using my 'variable' (aka crap, POS, etc) C-clip pliers but soon tired of chasing the variable pins around the shop when they would invariably pop off w/o doing a damn thing. Off to the hardware store to get some REAL Craftsman C-Clip pliers. I got the clip off in no time with the Craftsman. I then simply unscrewed the c-clamp and the assembly came apart.
Here's the setup, stock/standard/weak spring on the far left, it's steroid brother beside it.
Here's the components laid out...
Notice that silvery looking ring on the right? What kind of dumbass would leave that off during the initial assembly and trial drive? Lol... uh.. me.
So.. I'm actually glad I decided to change the spring because I was puzzled why I had such low boost with my new setup. <face palm>
I just took it out with the new spring (and the fire-ring installed). I routed my boost controller in the "High Boost" configuration. Holy crap... I just took off from a stop in the fashion you would in clear traffic. It was really moving so I let off in 2nd gear. I press the 'History' button on my AEM Tru boost to see what boost it got to before I left off. Ha! Farkin' 17psi in 2nd gear and I wasn't even stomping it. Whew. I'm going to reroute to the 'normal' boost configuration.
I used a large harbor frieght C-Clamp to compress/hold the housing together. I put the assembly in a vise, holding the c-clamp for stability. I tried using my 'variable' (aka crap, POS, etc) C-clip pliers but soon tired of chasing the variable pins around the shop when they would invariably pop off w/o doing a damn thing. Off to the hardware store to get some REAL Craftsman C-Clip pliers. I got the clip off in no time with the Craftsman. I then simply unscrewed the c-clamp and the assembly came apart.
Here's the setup, stock/standard/weak spring on the far left, it's steroid brother beside it.
Here's the components laid out...
Notice that silvery looking ring on the right? What kind of dumbass would leave that off during the initial assembly and trial drive? Lol... uh.. me.
So.. I'm actually glad I decided to change the spring because I was puzzled why I had such low boost with my new setup. <face palm>
I just took it out with the new spring (and the fire-ring installed). I routed my boost controller in the "High Boost" configuration. Holy crap... I just took off from a stop in the fashion you would in clear traffic. It was really moving so I let off in 2nd gear. I press the 'History' button on my AEM Tru boost to see what boost it got to before I left off. Ha! Farkin' 17psi in 2nd gear and I wasn't even stomping it. Whew. I'm going to reroute to the 'normal' boost configuration.
