Tirefire

iTrader: (1)

Just needed to know if a 2003 truck alternator (145 amp) will fit in the f-body factory placement with the procharger right next to it . I've been seeing my voltage go down and I want to fix my problem before I send it to get tuned with alky.. I've read it will fit but nothing has been said about it fitting with a procharger . Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

ive looked into this and supposedly it fits , just friggen barely . You only use two bolts to hold it also . The truck alt doesn't have the 3rd hole .

I looked into it before i went with a stock alt and was just nervous or using two holes for it and it fitting , but others have done it . I dont know how bc doing the stock size was a bear of just trying to get the right angle to get it in there.

Tirefire

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man!!! Has anyone else gone through this, I need my volrage to be consistent..

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Andy, make sure all your ground connections are clean. Resistance builds up over they years and can be the root of the problem. Bob

SmokedOutZ28

iTrader: (35)

We could not get mine to clear the procharger pulley properly with the aster bracket in use. the alternator pulley was too large and came into contact with it so I kept the stock Camaro alternator on.

The Truck alternator I was using was a Autozone Duralast Gold from a 2004 Suburban. Fit fine before the addition of the procharger.

Tirefire

iTrader: (1)

Why didn't you just change out the pulley from your alternator? I have the aster bracket as well and I have about a 1/4 inch of play from my procharger pulley.

steelgraygtp

iTrader: (12)

I just went through this too. I couldn't get it to work. The blower pulley bolt hits the main drive belt. A smaller bolt didn't help. Put the stock one back and the bolt still barely clears.

Tirefire

iTrader: (1)

Hi bob...yea the whole fuel system is new (double pump system with bigger lines) and the connections are clean. As you know this issue has followed me since i had the factory returnless fuel system. i was advised it might be a venting issue in my tank that might cause my fuel pumps to cavitate so I dropped my tank and bought a new charcoal canister, and two new evap sensors one at the tank and the one by the intake. I also blew out the evap lines and checked the black pressure line that falls off the tank and everything seems to be working fine. At this point I suspect it might be the alternator which is only 105 amp. I suspect that when the alternator gets hot (since its so close to the supercharger) it stops putting out all the amperage it should. Thats why I want to try another bigger heavy duty alternator...

SmokedOutZ28

iTrader: (35)

The shaft for the pulley was larger on the truck alternator then the car version, this might not of been the case for a stock alternator but the autozone one did not swap.

Tirefire

iTrader: (1)

Well let me ask you this, was your voltage/fuel pressure dropping when driving with your regular alternator? Did the replacement of a truck alternator
(145 amp) fix the voltage/fuel problem you had? Because this is the problem I'm having now, I'm killing my pumps and I think its due to the up and down amperage. The bad thing about this is that I'm just breaking in my motor no WOT runs. I'll be sending it to Dallas to get a tune with alky in two weeks and I need this fuel issue resolved.

Tirefire

iTrader: (1)

Any one else tried a truck alternator with a procharger. Ttt

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Do yourself a favor and log voltage while you're also logging fuel pressure in whatever software you have. See if there is a correlation to a drop in your fuel pressure with a drop in voltage. One might not be related to the other.

Also, I found that I had an issue with the actual pin in the exciter connector on my alternator. The pin inside was collapsed and only making intermittent contact, so my alternator wasn't charging properly. I pulled the pin, and changed it with a new one, and my voltage issues went away.