oange ss

iTrader: (50)

Anyone know what causes this ? I've seen it a few times on this site but no reason why. That's the #2 cyl exhaust lifter in the pic, I haven't pulled the cam yet to see if they are any more.

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

broken lifter bucket. They are made of plastic.

427

iTrader: (3)

Looks like the cam bolts are loose.

Kurt

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

yeah it looks that way. The lifters aren't in the center of the cam lobes.

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

possibilty I guess, but I used copious amounts of Lock Tite for the install 800 miles ago

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

lifter tray for sure,

427

iTrader: (3)

The lifter rides in the block for front to rear location, that one has been hit on the side by the next lobe. When they get hit like that it means the cam moved. That will cause the lifter to turn as it is not strong enough for the side hit. You should replace all the lifters as they may have damage that will be hard to see.

Kurt

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

i had planned on new lifters and a cam, providing the lifter bores arent fubared...I'll find out this weekend when i tear it down.

427

iTrader: (3)

I would think the bore will be OK right now. Push that lifter down for removal if you can, if you pull it out the bore it will cause more issues.

Kurt

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Replace the trays with LS2 trays, they are thicker than the LS1 version. If you want more security then get link bar lifters.

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

it had LS2 trays in it

Texhotrod593

iTrader: (7)

I had the SAME issue years back. My friend helped me with my install on the cam and heads. started ticking really bad after about 100miles. Come to find out the lifter turned and chewed up the cam, lifer/s and a few bottom end bearing due to the metal shavings. As I was tearing it down I noticed the lifter trays use shoulder bolts to fasten it down and if you tighten the bolt down with the shoulder off center it will crack and eventually break the tray causing the lifter/s to rotate. that is what happened to me but Kurt(427) is also right. Tear it down and let us know. Check the cam retainer bolts and the trays

Realcanuk

I am not jumping to conclusions and saying your cam bolts came loose, but since I hear that happens so often I use a cam bolt retainer. For like 8 bucks I think its a no brainer. Good luck and I hope it not too much damage.

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

anything's possible I guess, but I've done countless cam swaps over the years and have never had problems with loose cam bolts....where did you get that lock plate ?

Realcanuk

Its a Comp part.... can get it almost anywhere..

http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/5461/10002/-1

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

apparently Kurt was right. Luckily the motor didn't sustain any more damage than it did (1 lifter/lobe catastrophic damage, 2 lifters/lobes with major damage). The loose bolt in the pic was almost all the way out, the other 2 were half way out. I have the lock plate on order (thanx Realcanuck) along with a new cam and associated hardware. On a side note, I guess I put the LS1 lifter boxes in, not the LS2, like I originally posted. They only have 800 miles on them and no damage, so I'm going to re-use them.

p.s. thanks for the help everybody

Realcanuk

Good luck on the fix. I have seen numerous cases of the bolts backing out and always wondered why no one seems to use that retainer. Guess it puts builds over budget!!

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

got the new cam but still waiting on misc parts to install, so I thought I'd input the new cam specs in Desktop Dyno 2003. Obviously the engine and cam specs are correct but I have no clue on the turbo data. The raw numbers aren't as important to me as the slope of the graphs, I'm assuming the big difference is in the ramp rate between the two cams, Comp 277LSR vs. Tick Stage 1 turbo cam.