Budget/eBay head studs
01-18-2014, 11:05 AM
#65
Over torquing a stud to 90lbs that is rated for 70lbs will result in less clamping force. Going over the yield point of a fastener (max stretch point) will permanently deform the bolt and weaken the clamping force. (or just break)
Same goes for ARP. Just because it doesn't break at 90ftlbs+ doesn't mean it's holding the head down better.
01-18-2014, 11:11 AM
#67
Like I said back in post 43...
Over torquing a stud to 90lbs that is rated for 70lbs will result in less clamping force. Going over the yield point of a fastener (max stretch point) will permanently deform the bolt and weaken the clamping force. (or just break)
Same goes for ARP. Just because it doesn't break at 90ftlbs+ doesn't mean it's holding the head down better.
Over torquing a stud to 90lbs that is rated for 70lbs will result in less clamping force. Going over the yield point of a fastener (max stretch point) will permanently deform the bolt and weaken the clamping force. (or just break)
Same goes for ARP. Just because it doesn't break at 90ftlbs+ doesn't mean it's holding the head down better.
Mine came with NO instructions - typical of chineese stuff. They claim them to be 8740 material, like the ARP's, so I torqued to acheive 80ftlbs like ARP wants their 8740 studs tq'd to.
01-18-2014, 11:16 AM
#68
Head Stud Torque
11mm 70-75 ft-lbs should use ARP Lube or Thread torque lube,
8mm 23 ft-lbs
11mm 70-75 ft-lbs should use ARP Lube or Thread torque lube,
8mm 23 ft-lbs
The ARP instructions said to use these values with ARP lube....
First pass 25lbft second pass at 50lbft, and finally a 3rd at 70lbft.
Finally install the 5 smaller ARP bolts and torque them to 22lbft.
Finally install the 5 smaller ARP bolts and torque them to 22lbft.
If using motor oil use this:
First pass 30lbft second pass at 60lbft, and finally a 3rd at 80lbft.
install the 5 smaller ARP bolts and torque them to 28lbft.
First pass 30lbft second pass at 60lbft, and finally a 3rd at 80lbft.
install the 5 smaller ARP bolts and torque them to 28lbft.
Not that it won't "work", obviously it does. There are alot of variables people tend to ignore. I think thats why there are so many failures.
Last edited by Forcefed86; 01-18-2014 at 11:24 AM.
01-18-2014, 11:32 AM
#70
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=603924
01-18-2014, 12:22 PM
#71
Like I said back in post 43...
Over torquing a stud to 90lbs that is rated for 70lbs will result in less clamping force. Going over the yield point of a fastener (max stretch point) will permanently deform the bolt and weaken the clamping force. (or just break)
Same goes for ARP. Just because it doesn't break at 90ftlbs+ doesn't mean it's holding the head down better.
Over torquing a stud to 90lbs that is rated for 70lbs will result in less clamping force. Going over the yield point of a fastener (max stretch point) will permanently deform the bolt and weaken the clamping force. (or just break)
Same goes for ARP. Just because it doesn't break at 90ftlbs+ doesn't mean it's holding the head down better.
I was watching the gauge snapped about 60-65ft lbs
01-18-2014, 01:08 PM
#72
I got a set of the Alper's as well. The quality leaves a bit to be desired as four of the large nuts were not threaded perpendicular to the stud and the pressure face would "wobble" as you rotated it. Alper was more than happy to send me four more nuts and they were perfect. Overall I've very happy with them for the price.
I haven't passed any boost through them yet but they torqued down just fine with ARP lube to 75lbft.
I haven't passed any boost through them yet but they torqued down just fine with ARP lube to 75lbft.
01-18-2014, 10:04 PM
#77
I've used ARP and the Alper motorsports one. Got a 900rwhp nitrous vette, my "beater" 97 (540whp on one kit), and my single turbo camaro running the Alpers, no issues whatsoever on the performance side. The only thing I dont like is the smaller studs dont have a hex bit slot to tighten them into the block with, gonna use your fingers.
01-20-2014, 09:35 AM
#78
I know this is not a wrench thread but just FYI.
Snap on wrenches can be out of tolerance just as well as the HF ones. I have used and calibrated both . Both keep their accuracy over long term the same. At work, last week, we got 6 Snap on wrenches brand new that would not pass initial calibration specs. They were very non-linear. The new digital wrenches from snap on are actually 1% and asre dead on the $$ for accuracy. I highly recommend them.
Snap on wrenches can be out of tolerance just as well as the HF ones. I have used and calibrated both . Both keep their accuracy over long term the same. At work, last week, we got 6 Snap on wrenches brand new that would not pass initial calibration specs. They were very non-linear. The new digital wrenches from snap on are actually 1% and asre dead on the $$ for accuracy. I highly recommend them.
01-20-2014, 09:37 AM
#79
I know this is not a wrench thread but just FYI.
Snap on wrenches can be out of tolerance just as well as the HF ones. I have used and calibrated both . Both keep their accuracy over long term the same. At work, last week, we got 6 Snap on wrenches brand new that would not pass initial calibration specs. They were very non-linear. The new digital wrenches from snap on are actually 1% and asre dead on the $$ for accuracy. I highly recommend them.
Snap on wrenches can be out of tolerance just as well as the HF ones. I have used and calibrated both . Both keep their accuracy over long term the same. At work, last week, we got 6 Snap on wrenches brand new that would not pass initial calibration specs. They were very non-linear. The new digital wrenches from snap on are actually 1% and asre dead on the $$ for accuracy. I highly recommend them.