When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Is everyone using the arp thread chaser, or just running the old bolts in a time or two? Using fastener lube? Has anybody experienced any issues since the refund/recalls that were happening about two years ago?
i use a dremel and cut a groove into an old head bolt. run it in and out with the rattle gun . some brake cleaner to knock the crud loose. blast it with air and vacuum out the goobers.
i use regular moly/graphite assembly lube under the washers and nuts, and cheap 10w30 dino oil on the threads.
Last edited by truckdoug; 04-15-2016 at 08:33 PM.
Reason: added lubes
Went ahead and ordered some Chinese studs. I figured since it was going to be naturally aspirated and under 500 horse that the cheap studs would work. I may be proven wrong, but time will tell.
I had a machine shop use the Alpers on my 5.3 getting a full rebuild. They used ARP's specs for tightening the nuts... One stud broke the top off and a couple other's bent.
I trashed them and used ARPs.
Really sucks because I hadn't read any issues with Alpers here.
I had a machine shop use the Alpers on my 5.3 getting a full rebuild. They used ARP's specs for tightening the nuts... One stud broke the top off and a couple other's bent.
I trashed them and used ARPs.
Really sucks because I hadn't read any issues with Alpers here.
What did they torque it to?
Stress tests have been done on these, they are no stronger than an OEM bolt. The stud is just a better design by nature. No need to reef these things down insane torque amounts. I'm sure 65 ftlb with ARP lube will hold the heads down just fine as long as your tune is good. So will a factory bolt, it just doesn't clamp as well or as even by design.
Stress tests have been done on these, they are no stronger than an OEM bolt. The stud is just a better design by nature. No need to reef these things down insane torque amounts. I'm sure 65 ftlb with ARP lube will hold the heads down just fine as long as your tune is good. So will a factory bolt, it just doesn't clamp as well or as even by design.
They followed the ARP instruction sheet. It isn't sitting in front of me right now so I doubt they went 100ftlbs+
Just off the top of my head (and don't take that for much, memory isn't what it used to be)... I believe Alper recommends 65 ft/lb and ARP 70 ft/lb. (?)
pretty sure ARP is 80, as that is the info I had on hand when I did my china studs. They all went to 80 but knowing what I know now, I wouldn't go that high again.
I also believe I read 65 for the china studs on the ebay AD when I bought them. I went to 70 without issue. (probably doing more harm than good over torquing them to 70 even) 26lbs of boost on an alum 5.3 without an issue.
I believe ARP is 80. And too much for china studs. I went 86 on my ARP's per JFR racing's suggestion.
08-25-2015, 10:56 PM
