superstreeter

I've been running a projected tipped plug for a while with low boost !

At what point should I switch to a non projected plug ? At what boost level,, how many lbs. ? What's safe ?

I did run the BR7s for a bit, but the projected ones run so much cleaner !

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I just switched from TR6's to BR7EF's (both gapped at 0.028) and it runs noticeably rougher out of boost. It has a slight surge in light throttle, and it also breaks up in boost now. There's many factors to consider but I'm definitely going back to the TR6's. I'm around 13psi and spraying 50/50 water/meth.

CameronVic

iTrader: (5)

Running a colder plug for the safety factor is never a bad idea if you ask me. I'm running 8s and am putting some 9s in before I take it to the track Friday. I don't care about the 2-10whp I'll lose from a colder plug (if that), I just don't wanna melt my **** down.

Compressor Surge

iTrader: (21)

I've noticed the exact same thing.

superstreeter

TR6 ! is that a projected tip ? I had a set of ACs in #R42LTS and they burn perfectly clean and smooth. So would a TR6 be equivelant to a R42LTS ?

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Yes they are projected tip. I've never heard of those plugs so I don't know if they are equivalent.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

You need to get a good nickle plated plug. Install the plug right before a test pass at a known safe boost/timing level. Shut the car down at the end of the pass (no idle, cruise time) then read the plug. The only reason to go to a hotter plug is if your fouling your current plug out. Make sure you're cruise and idle AFR's are in check and close to stoich to help prevent fouling. IMHO a projected tip plug doesn't belong in any turbo engine... ever.

This is about perfect for a turbo plug IMO.



This is a bit hotter and still O.K. If the heat mark goes past to bend in the ground strap or farther the plug is to hot.