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Old 08-12-2013, 10:44 PM   #1
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Default over heating(large frame turbo)

just got the car done a couple weeks ago, baker engineering did the tuning and and some other work on the car great guys by the way.

Ive already talked to tj at baker and chuck at burkhart about my issues i will try everything that they say. just trying to get some more insight/things to check


basic setup run down

-iron 370
-5" downpipe
-PT-large frame turbo mount in middle of engine bay about 6inches way from radiator
-burkhart front mount radiator setup with remote pump setup -16 feeds and returns

heres whats going on with the car

- basic street driving the car stays at 209 to 210 but once i get on the car(into boost) temps climb up so bad the first time coolant was spraying out of the overflow tank about a foot in the air hood was off the car. so i let the car cool down, switched out the cap to a higher spring was 6lbs went to 13lbs. seemed to help a little bit but still started to go over 210 so i called it quits for the day


Now i dont have the downpipe wrapped nor a blanket. just the crossover is wrapped(dei lava) i just ordered a blanket and more wrap to do those things just to element them, but chuck doesnt think its the hot side. he says to double check the coolant crossovers(KUP system) so i will bleed them tomorrow after work.

Anybody have any other things to check/do?

thanks
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:56 AM   #2
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" spring was 6lbs went to 13lbs. seemed to help a little bit but still started to go over 210 "
raising the cap relief pressure does not control the op temp...It only raises the boiling point.
Why would there be a 6# cap on there, to begin with?
something mechanical causing the issue[s]??
IE: heads lifting, blown gasket, steam pocket[s], all come to mind.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:26 AM   #3
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Quote:
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" spring was 6lbs went to 13lbs. seemed to help a little bit but still started to go over 210 "
raising the cap relief pressure does not control the op temp...It only raises the boiling point.
Why would there be a 6# cap on there, to begin with?
something mechanical causing the issue[s]??
IE: heads lifting, blown gasket, steam pocket[s], all come to mind.
The cap came with the radiator that burkhart supplied, i doubt its a head gasket nor lifting at the boost level, has ARP studs with ls7 gaskets heads were installed by Kurt Urban, i will be checking the steam pockets later today would be awesome if that is the issue
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:12 AM   #4
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What water pump do you have? Is it old? Functioning 100%?
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:26 AM   #5
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Quote:
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What water pump do you have? Is it old? Functioning 100%?
^^This and wrap everything you can, what is your fan set up pusher or puller?
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:39 PM   #6
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pump is a meizer(sp) remote mount pump with -16an dual feeds everything on this car is brand new. i ordered the blanket yesterday and the wrap for the downpipe today, gonna order heat shield product for the lines today also.
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:47 PM   #7
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Make sure the pump is plumbed correctly and you are not flowing water backwards seen it a few times easy mistake to make.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:19 PM   #8
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I have the same issue with my setup. I don't have a pump like you do but the issue with my coolant problem is an air pocket.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:15 PM   #9
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whats the eastiest way to bleed pockets?the feed lines for the pump are going on the bottom port of the motor which is what i was told and tj and baker redid the lines later on so im sure they are fine
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:32 PM   #10
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I have an airlift that I use puts a vaccum on the system then fills it to ensure you don't get air in works everytime.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:37 PM   #11
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Does it do cool down at idle or still climb? What is the fan setup?
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Does it do cool down at idle or still climb? What is the fan setup?

never tried to let it cool down after the two runs temps jump way to quick didnt wanna hurt anything. its a single puller fan

car is perfect at idle can sit and run never go over 210
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:47 PM   #13
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here a a quick pic of the setup just no lines ran
Attached Thumbnails
over heating(large frame turbo)-photo-1.jpg   over heating(large frame turbo)-photo.jpg  
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:07 PM   #14
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What you are describing now sounds like an air pocket in the system.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:24 PM   #15
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whats the best tool to remove air then? does anybody rent the equipment out by chance?
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:42 PM   #16
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Most shops should have an airlift or buy your own, google it and you can see how it works.
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:22 PM   #17
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Question ????

Quote:
Originally Posted by trans2000am View Post
pump is a meizer(sp) remote mount pump with -16an dual feeds everything on this car is brand new. i ordered the blanket yesterday and the wrap for the downpipe today, gonna order heat shield product for the lines today also.
Plumbed correctly, wired backwards??
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:00 PM   #18
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ya plumbed correctly feeds on the bottom port returns on the top,i 100% believe its wired correctly or i would think i would over heat just street driving the car
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:25 PM   #19
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Do you have the air damn installed? What thermostat are you running?

It seems odd that it will stay relatively cool with it at idle and not heat up. Is this a proven pump for street use? By the sounds of it, there's either as mentioned before air in the system or not enough pump/bad pump.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:29 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Do you have the air damn installed? What thermostat are you running?

It seems odd that it will stay relatively cool with it at idle and not heat up. Is this a proven pump for street use? By the sounds of it, there's either as mentioned before air in the system or not enough pump/bad pump.
no air damn whole bottom core support was cut out, could prolly fab up one just in case, was told the pump is good on the street same pump every other remote mounted car runs i know of a couple on the tech that street drive with no issues.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:29 PM
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