forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

I hear ya on the wiring, life used to be so simple in the old days, then GM made it simpler with the HEI, then it all went crazy, lol
I use a #4 wire alt to bat when I run a trunk bat
if your FP is rising 1-1, might give you an idea of boost accuracy
good first outing, plenty left

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, who is this Ohm guy anyway! We have enough laws in this country to obey as it is.....

I added an 8ga in parallel with my 10ga and now have 14.3 at the PCM when it's running.

Yahoo!

Agent_Orange_Shuvel

iTrader: (8)

Good to hear you made it to the track and have already overcome the wiring issue. I decided to move my battery to the driverside just becuase of the NHRA rules and external cutoff switche's...such a pain to keep everyone happy. When's the next track outing gonna be?

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Hey, agree it's a pain. And after driving for a bit, I'm not convinced I have it completely fixed yet.

I absolutely have to have the trans shifting before the next try. That was frustrating. And I'll run the slicks.

I added VSS to my TH400. This will help the drive around stuff a lot.



So maybe in a couple of weeks?

Ron

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

i see room for a 4L80E in there, lol-still rebuilding one myself, its not cheap
but dam 4th gear and converter locked, its super on the highway, and in 20 years I can recoup the investment thru gas savings-well, maybe 25 years, lol

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

But but, think of the weight! Ha!
I thought about the L80, but just wasn't in the budget.

I fixed a couple more nagging voltage issues. Now I'm looking into what I need for check valves for the vac modulator line. I'm tired of spending money on this. The transgo valves are $40 by the time you ship. Jake says I need two.....
There has to be a cheaper solution. Perhaps the Treadstone check valves?

JoeNova

Use a brake booster check valve. The vacuum modulator line is about the same size as most brake booster hoses. You could probably scavenge a few of them pretty cheap. If they're OEM, they're reliable enough to keep your power brakes working. I don't see you having an issue with them in this situation.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

I was thinking those might work. Good idea

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

I have one of the Transgo ck valves when I built a man shift 80E
pretty simple thing, but I switched back to full auto, got old
I kind of preferred full auto on the 400's with boost, but a ck valve could work
back in the day B & M had a mech like vac. mod when they were selling blowers, I don't know how it worked though
I found a brass ck valve thru NAPA that I used on my PCV valve, so I didn't blow boost back in the engine-theirs a ton of diff valves out there, how much boost they can hold is trial & error
keep spending money, your Gov. needs it for something, I just don't know what, lol
if I can find my valve your welcome to try it

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Dam Ron I just bought one of those Transgo valves, and now I may need 2??? I think I'll just intall another cheapy check valve in-line to help. All the searching I've done never showed the need to add another. In fact, some guys running below 15psi don't use it at all and say the trans shifts fine

http://www.ebay.com/itm/260134015180...#ht_1987wt_940

yenkomike

iTrader: (2)

what you can do is add a t to your modulator line and buy a check valve from the autoparts store help makes one for like 5 bucks 47149 hook it to your t so under boost it vents off the boost but under vacuum it closes and lets the line hold vacuum.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

I was going to do that (still might) but the transgo unit has an orifice on one end for whatever reason...I figure they know something I dont so I coughed-up the cash (and that was hard for my cheep-azz to do - especially for that piece of plastic).

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Good discussion. I found some checks used on the old turbo buicks for cheap. And some inline brake booster in line valves etc.
It's back to wet here for awhile anyway, so no racing.

Btw, summit has the TG part for $30

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

after thinking about this some, a ck valve in the vac line wont work, it will always have the mod. in a vac. state since there is no way to be exposed to the atmosphere (look at what happens when you rem the line to power brakes, vac still there)-prob burn up the clutches with reduce line pressure?
could be the reason Jake said it needed 2 valves
I was looking at the transgo one last night, its just a plastic tee with a short hose, brass tube with a ck ball-prob under boost it pushes the ball off the seat to release some boost, although some can prob still get to the mod
seems like under boost it would be like a small boost leak, prob not enough to rob power, lol

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Correct. You can't just use a check valve alone. It needs a way to relieve boost, but allow vacuum.
I wonder if I can somehow use a carb needle and seat. Hmmm

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

interesting idea-stick it in the middle nipple of a tee, mount vertical, almost the same thing as the Transgo valve

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Exactly. I'll let you know what I come up with. Some assembly required.....

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Well, it holds vacuum fine.
And it will release boost pressure. Question is, enough? Or too much?
I could add an adjustment if it's too much.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Called in the NFL refs. After further review, this isn't going to work. Back to the drawing board.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Ron, what about that wont work? Im looking at this Transgo piece and I cant believe I paid 35.00 for this thing

There is an orifice about 1/16" or so to limit the amount of boost that enters the device to begin with, so the check ball doesn't have to bleed that much boost to begin with.