Overheating Issues with Front Mount Kit
04-01-2014, 12:39 PM
#1
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Overheating Issues with Front Mount Kit UPDATE: Used stock fans flipped and its running great.
I have a 00 Z28 with a Huron Speed AC retaining kit. Turbo has a blanket on it. I kept stock radiator in stock location. At the time I was about to install the Derale Pusher Fans were back ordered for 2 months so I purchased two of these: Perma-Cool Standard Electric Fans 19122.
It is currently experiencing overheating issues even on the dyno with a giant fan on it. Very perplexed since the twin fans should be supplying more than enough CFM. The shop replaced the thermostat but I figured that wouldn't help, it didn't. They are going to try to use the stock fans with the shroud to help.
Any other ideas? I have talked with several Huron Speed kit owners and usually everyone ran just fine even in MUCH hotter weather (its only 45 degrees here)....
I have a 00 Z28 with a Huron Speed AC retaining kit. Turbo has a blanket on it. I kept stock radiator in stock location. At the time I was about to install the Derale Pusher Fans were back ordered for 2 months so I purchased two of these: Perma-Cool Standard Electric Fans 19122.
It is currently experiencing overheating issues even on the dyno with a giant fan on it. Very perplexed since the twin fans should be supplying more than enough CFM. The shop replaced the thermostat but I figured that wouldn't help, it didn't. They are going to try to use the stock fans with the shroud to help.
Any other ideas? I have talked with several Huron Speed kit owners and usually everyone ran just fine even in MUCH hotter weather (its only 45 degrees here)....
Last edited by HolyShiznit; 04-02-2014 at 08:59 PM.
04-01-2014, 02:20 PM
#5
200-210 honestly is not terrible. If it keeps rising that could be an issue. My wife's ctsv scared the crap out of me when I saw 240 on the water temp, but the second fan does not even kick on til around there. I would say if it keeps rising uncontrolled and both fans are on it is time for more flow or a better radiator. Also +1 for checking for no air pockets.
04-01-2014, 03:21 PM
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Idling in traffic, mine will hang around 210 on an 80 degree day WITH the AC on.
Check everything that has been mentioned and make sure that when your fans are on, air is actually passing through the radiator. When my Derale fans are on hi, you can definitely feel the air passing through the condenser and the radiator.
I also have the Huron Speed AC kit with two Derale pusher fans.
Check everything that has been mentioned and make sure that when your fans are on, air is actually passing through the radiator. When my Derale fans are on hi, you can definitely feel the air passing through the condenser and the radiator.
I also have the Huron Speed AC kit with two Derale pusher fans.
04-01-2014, 04:49 PM
#7
210 is perfectly fine, I don't understand why people still believe that their coolant needs to be cooler than that. The coolant temp sensor is at the hottest location, which is right before it exits the block and goes back to the radiator. So 210 degrees, even 220-230 is ok. You definitely want the oil temps to be in the low 200s to boil off contaminants and moisture, which won't happen if you keep the coolant too low.
Also, if I'm reading correctly, you put fans on, without a shroud, which greatly reduces the effectiveness of the fans and radiator. Without a shroud, you're essentially only cooling the immediate area behind the fan, and think about it, air will take the path of least resistance, and if the fan isn't sealed to the radiator with a shroud, the air won't pull past the fins effectively.
Also, if I'm reading correctly, you put fans on, without a shroud, which greatly reduces the effectiveness of the fans and radiator. Without a shroud, you're essentially only cooling the immediate area behind the fan, and think about it, air will take the path of least resistance, and if the fan isn't sealed to the radiator with a shroud, the air won't pull past the fins effectively.
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04-01-2014, 08:03 PM
#8
Your temps seem fine. If you start getting above the 230 mark then I would stop and address it.
Make sure all of the air is our of your system as mentioned above.
Is the air dam still on the car? if not, put that back on.
Make sure all of the air is our of your system as mentioned above.
Is the air dam still on the car? if not, put that back on.
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04-02-2014, 07:28 AM
#11
Air still in the system?
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04-02-2014, 09:06 AM
#12
[QUOTE=The Alchemist;18123179]210 is perfectly fine, I don't understand why people still believe that their coolant needs to be cooler than that. The coolant temp sensor is at the hottest location, which is right before it exits the block and goes back to the radiator. So 210 degrees, even 220-230 is ok. QUOTE]
I guess I never really looked at it this way. I always knew the sensor was in the head, but never really though about it. Its the hottest coolant area of any part of the system. If you read it in the radiator I bet it would be in the 160-180 range.
I guess I never really looked at it this way. I always knew the sensor was in the head, but never really though about it. Its the hottest coolant area of any part of the system. If you read it in the radiator I bet it would be in the 160-180 range.
04-02-2014, 09:30 AM
#14
Well it only makes sense. Coming out of the radiator, you expect the temp to be the lowest, then it goes into the front of the passenger side, crosses over in the back, then up the drivers side, and then out of the motor (if my memory serves me, I could be wrong). So seeing a temp of 210 at the hottest point in the system shouldn't be an issue. Now if the coolant coming out of the radiator was 210, then it would be of concern.
04-02-2014, 07:05 PM
#16
Sprayed, make sure you get all the air out of the system, not just topping off the radiator, I'm talking about putting a vacum on the coolant system and letting it sit for a few hours. This is called deaeration and can dramatically impact boiling points, especially when you pressurize the system. Think soda. It's carbonated, and has a lower boiling point than regular non-carbonated water. Well, when you pour in water, it adds air to it, that becomes air pockets when the system heats up and pressurizes. These air pockets create hotspots. So get a tool like this...
http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool...ROB-75260.html
Here's the tool I used, this is my buddy who I borrowed it from:
Next step is to make sure you're getting adequite airflow through the radiator, which means making sure the fan has a shroud to pull all the air through, just like the factory setups.
http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool...ROB-75260.html
Here's the tool I used, this is my buddy who I borrowed it from:
Next step is to make sure you're getting adequite airflow through the radiator, which means making sure the fan has a shroud to pull all the air through, just like the factory setups.
04-02-2014, 07:32 PM
#19
I've used onE of these for years, It works great as well.
Mine is red it's a Matco tools brands, I think Lisle makes them for everybody.
You can get them at Napa or any auto parts store. I posted a Walmart link as well.
I have friends that try to barrow it and I tell them for $35.00 you need to buy your own.
My friends have a hard time remaindering where I live when I loan them tools!
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...000_0405868358
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lisle-Spil...-Thrd/19654863
Mine is red it's a Matco tools brands, I think Lisle makes them for everybody.
You can get them at Napa or any auto parts store. I posted a Walmart link as well.
I have friends that try to barrow it and I tell them for $35.00 you need to buy your own.
My friends have a hard time remaindering where I live when I loan them tools!
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...000_0405868358
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lisle-Spil...-Thrd/19654863
Last edited by Chris@CBR; 04-02-2014 at 07:50 PM.