69 Nova. 5.3 L33 Turbo build. Billet S474, LOTS of pictures...
#301
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I've had success running the xxx96 melling pump with the big spring and 20w-50 oil. Makes over 100 psi of oil pressure at high rpm and idles around 40-50 psi depending on engine temp. My rod/main clearance is around .0027". Just an fyi.
Some don't like that much oil pressure, but I embrace it.
Some don't like that much oil pressure, but I embrace it.
The OEs also believe that an engine with a timing belt that could/will break would not think to machine enough P to V clearance to not hit the valves.... go figure.
But, like you said, it makes you feel better, and thats all that matters.
Last edited by LT1PWRD; 05-08-2016 at 06:42 PM.
#302
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I wonder just how much the turbo oil feed affects pressure readings. I'm feeding the turbo from the stock oil sending unit port with an unrestricted -4 AN line. I can't imagine its stealing too much oil from the lifters.
I have enough room to completely remove the pan without pulling the engine, so I'm going to do that sometime this week and replace the pickup tube O-ring.
I know for a fact that the gasket on my cam retainer plate is flat because I considered putting a small line of RTV on it when I was doing my cam swap. I'll start looking around to see where I can get a plate as well.
#303
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Bosch filters for the LS3.
I wonder just how much the turbo oil feed affects pressure readings. I'm feeding the turbo from the stock oil sending unit port with an unrestricted -4 AN line. I can't imagine its stealing too much oil from the lifters.
I have enough room to completely remove the pan without pulling the engine, so I'm going to do that sometime this week and replace the pickup tube O-ring.
I know for a fact that the gasket on my cam retainer plate is flat because I considered putting a small line of RTV on it when I was doing my cam swap. I'll start looking around to see where I can get a plate as well.
I wonder just how much the turbo oil feed affects pressure readings. I'm feeding the turbo from the stock oil sending unit port with an unrestricted -4 AN line. I can't imagine its stealing too much oil from the lifters.
I have enough room to completely remove the pan without pulling the engine, so I'm going to do that sometime this week and replace the pickup tube O-ring.
I know for a fact that the gasket on my cam retainer plate is flat because I considered putting a small line of RTV on it when I was doing my cam swap. I'll start looking around to see where I can get a plate as well.
#304
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Similar symptoms I take it? I still drive the car almost every day, but I've removed the boost controller so that I'm only running on wastegate until I get the problem solved. I really hope the pickup tube O-ring is the problem. Getting to the retainer plate would be a PITA.
#305
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Similar symptoms I take it? I still drive the car almost every day, but I've removed the boost controller so that I'm only running on wastegate until I get the problem solved. I really hope the pickup tube O-ring is the problem. Getting to the retainer plate would be a PITA.
#306
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The issue is indeed the cam retainer plate. Replacing the pickup O-ring helped a little bit at first, but it wasn't the root cause.
On another note, my 4L80e lost reverse after a bad shift linkage/bracket issue caused me to go from Drive to neutral to drive while I was in the throttle. I'm still driving it, just with no reverse. I'm in the process of selling off my truck now, and I'll be picking up a Jake's stage 4 4L80e as soon as its gone.
I also have a set of H-beams sitting around. I'm debating whether or not I should spend the $675 for pistons while its apart.
On another note, my 4L80e lost reverse after a bad shift linkage/bracket issue caused me to go from Drive to neutral to drive while I was in the throttle. I'm still driving it, just with no reverse. I'm in the process of selling off my truck now, and I'll be picking up a Jake's stage 4 4L80e as soon as its gone.
I also have a set of H-beams sitting around. I'm debating whether or not I should spend the $675 for pistons while its apart.
#309
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Part of the O-ring was completely flat.
I've decided that since the forward clutches in my trans have welded themselves together, I'm going to go for broke and put the car on kill at the track before pulling it apart. I can put it in reverse and it acts as a trans-brake. Pull it into neutral and it goes into 1st gear and launches.
I need to fix a few things on the intercooler piping and make sure the tune is spot on at 24 PSI (~800whp range). I'll toss in a couple gallons of race gas to make sure I have a bit of a safety margin. I'm probably going to fab up some sort of subframe connectors to make sure I don't tweak the body.
Then in the next week or so, we will load it up on the trailer, take it to the track, and make a Hail Mary pass.
I'm about to order a Jake's stage 4 rebuild kit with billet input and intermediate shafts, and I picked up some MT ET Pros yesterday.
I've decided that since the forward clutches in my trans have welded themselves together, I'm going to go for broke and put the car on kill at the track before pulling it apart. I can put it in reverse and it acts as a trans-brake. Pull it into neutral and it goes into 1st gear and launches.
I need to fix a few things on the intercooler piping and make sure the tune is spot on at 24 PSI (~800whp range). I'll toss in a couple gallons of race gas to make sure I have a bit of a safety margin. I'm probably going to fab up some sort of subframe connectors to make sure I don't tweak the body.
Then in the next week or so, we will load it up on the trailer, take it to the track, and make a Hail Mary pass.
I'm about to order a Jake's stage 4 rebuild kit with billet input and intermediate shafts, and I picked up some MT ET Pros yesterday.
#310
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Something we all should look out for....
Although these are cheap enough to replace, I wonder if a good quality rtv would work here (like the Right Stuff or equiv). Then again, Jegs has the plate for like 18.00, I think the Right stuff is more than that if you have to go by a can just for this.
Although these are cheap enough to replace, I wonder if a good quality rtv would work here (like the Right Stuff or equiv). Then again, Jegs has the plate for like 18.00, I think the Right stuff is more than that if you have to go by a can just for this.
#311
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As long as its applied properly, it shouldn't be a problem at all.
After this, I've decided that since I do so many swaps, I'm just going to start putting a bead of RTV on all of the cam retainer plates when I change cams.
I have 2 more swaps to do in the next few weeks, both with big cams, so I guess I need to buy a tube of RTV.
After this, I've decided that since I do so many swaps, I'm just going to start putting a bead of RTV on all of the cam retainer plates when I change cams.
I have 2 more swaps to do in the next few weeks, both with big cams, so I guess I need to buy a tube of RTV.
#312
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As long as its applied properly, it shouldn't be a problem at all.
After this, I've decided that since I do so many swaps, I'm just going to start putting a bead of RTV on all of the cam retainer plates when I change cams.
I have 2 more swaps to do in the next few weeks, both with big cams, so I guess I need to buy a tube of RTV.
After this, I've decided that since I do so many swaps, I'm just going to start putting a bead of RTV on all of the cam retainer plates when I change cams.
I have 2 more swaps to do in the next few weeks, both with big cams, so I guess I need to buy a tube of RTV.
#313
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And now my problems. I seem to bump into a lot of these.
I ordered these slick brake brackets for my rear. Designed to use SN95 cobra brakes on a fox rear with fox length axles. Basically exactly what I'm doing. They're also $80 cheaper than actual cobra brackets that I would just have to hack up, so it seems like a win/win for me. They space the caliper out a little farther from the axle to clear the larger rotor.
I ordered these slick brake brackets for my rear. Designed to use SN95 cobra brakes on a fox rear with fox length axles. Basically exactly what I'm doing. They're also $80 cheaper than actual cobra brackets that I would just have to hack up, so it seems like a win/win for me. They space the caliper out a little farther from the axle to clear the larger rotor.
#314
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#315
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I picked up a set of these Wheels for my Nova for under $500 shipped.
They're 15x7 for the front with 215s since this is a 99% street car, and 15x8 for the rear which I'm going to temporarily mount my ET Pros on. Eventually I'll get a more street friendly tire for the rear.
They're 15x7 for the front with 215s since this is a 99% street car, and 15x8 for the rear which I'm going to temporarily mount my ET Pros on. Eventually I'll get a more street friendly tire for the rear.
#317
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Wow sorry I mis-typed LOL. They are around $100, not $1000.
I had a local guy water jet me out a set using the ones I bought as a base. He charged me ~$60. I'm trying to make a kit to 8.8 swap a G-body and these brackets work perfect.
I had a local guy water jet me out a set using the ones I bought as a base. He charged me ~$60. I'm trying to make a kit to 8.8 swap a G-body and these brackets work perfect.
#320
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I just got new tires mounted on the front. I should get the ET Pros mounted this week. Only problem is I have to find the key so I can get them out of the trunk LOL.