Tore down 5.3 for turbo, LOOK OK??
04-25-2014, 01:31 PM
#1
Tore down 5.3 for turbo, LOOK OK?? I posted this in Gen III internal engine but no responses. Hoping for more info over here.
Last night my friend and I put in a brian tooley stage II cam in a 5.3 I got from a junkyard. After that we pulled the heads so i can install brian tooley Springs and also to put in new head studs and an ls9 gasket. We were surprised to see the passenger side push rods in great shape but the driver side were black color. Almost like they were burnt. The motor has about 130k on the clock.
There is a good deal of carbon buildup in the heads and cylinders, I don't think it is out of the ordinary for the mileage, but I am also not an expert on this stuff. Here are pics of the cylinders and pushrods. As you can see some are clean looking and the others are black.
Can anyone here tell me if I need to be concerned about this. Is there something else I should look at like the lifter?? Why would one sides pushrods looks great and the other look so black??
Also I should note that the old gasket in the drivers side had gunk clogging up some of the coolant passages. I'm going to flush all that out. Any tips on best way to do that??
Last night my friend and I put in a brian tooley stage II cam in a 5.3 I got from a junkyard. After that we pulled the heads so i can install brian tooley Springs and also to put in new head studs and an ls9 gasket. We were surprised to see the passenger side push rods in great shape but the driver side were black color. Almost like they were burnt. The motor has about 130k on the clock.
There is a good deal of carbon buildup in the heads and cylinders, I don't think it is out of the ordinary for the mileage, but I am also not an expert on this stuff. Here are pics of the cylinders and pushrods. As you can see some are clean looking and the others are black.
Can anyone here tell me if I need to be concerned about this. Is there something else I should look at like the lifter?? Why would one sides pushrods looks great and the other look so black??
Also I should note that the old gasket in the drivers side had gunk clogging up some of the coolant passages. I'm going to flush all that out. Any tips on best way to do that??
04-25-2014, 02:40 PM
#2
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Looked just like mine.. If it's out of the car why not disassemble and and put in new bearings.. Kings performance is what I got and was less then 120 I think for rod and main.. then u can also properly gap the rings..
04-25-2014, 03:08 PM
#4
I thought it was prob no big deal. I'm just going to spend time cleaning it all up this weekend and get it all back together. Maybe run some gm top end cleaner through it once I get it back in the car. I'm going to have the heads hot tanked and inspected too.
Any ideas on the pushrods??
Any ideas on the pushrods??
04-25-2014, 04:03 PM
#6
I was thinking of putting in bigger valves, but just found out the bellhousing on my TH400 is cracked in 2 spots from my old motor (in sig), so I am going to use that money to buy a new bellhousing for it that is SFI rated since I'm sure it will make a shitload of power even with stock valves.
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04-25-2014, 05:53 PM
#8
Any recommendations?? LS7 Lifters good enough?? I've seen a lot of budget turbo builds with more mileage than this motor replacing a lot of valve train stuff, but not the lifters. Not to say it shouldn't be done.
Last edited by Chiropaul; 04-25-2014 at 06:08 PM.
04-25-2014, 06:12 PM
#9
I thought I put it in original post. I've got a brian tooley stage II turbo cam, brian tooley valve springs and hardened pushrods. Got all the goodies from Lil John's along with a pair of JGS 40mm wastegates and a JGS 60mm BOV. Strapping a S475 on this one. Got 80lb SD injectors, and probably another $1000 worth of crap lol.
I was thinking of putting in bigger valves, but just found out the bellhousing on my TH400 is cracked in 2 spots from my old motor (in sig), so I am going to use that money to buy a new bellhousing for it that is SFI rated since I'm sure it will make a shitload of power even with stock valves.
I was thinking of putting in bigger valves, but just found out the bellhousing on my TH400 is cracked in 2 spots from my old motor (in sig), so I am going to use that money to buy a new bellhousing for it that is SFI rated since I'm sure it will make a shitload of power even with stock valves.
04-26-2014, 09:50 AM
#13
I believe one side of the engine being dirtier than the other is the result of years of PCV action.
Clean air comes in one valve cover and the crank case vapors are sucked out of the other valve cover. So the head/pushrods with the clean air coming in tends to be far cleaner than the other head/pushrods where the vapor is exhausted.
Clean air comes in one valve cover and the crank case vapors are sucked out of the other valve cover. So the head/pushrods with the clean air coming in tends to be far cleaner than the other head/pushrods where the vapor is exhausted.
04-26-2014, 10:06 AM
#14
I believe one side of the engine being dirtier than the other is the result of years of PCV action.
Clean air comes in one valve cover and the crank case vapors are sucked out of the other valve cover. So the head/pushrods with the clean air coming in tends to be far cleaner than the other head/pushrods where the vapor is exhausted.
Clean air comes in one valve cover and the crank case vapors are sucked out of the other valve cover. So the head/pushrods with the clean air coming in tends to be far cleaner than the other head/pushrods where the vapor is exhausted.
And since you replied. What are your thoughts on the necessity of replacing the lifters on this motor (assuming they look good on inspection)??
04-26-2014, 11:43 AM
#15
Although $139 will buy you new LS7 lifters, and $99 will buy new OEM stock replacement lifters, so either might be good insurance.