Why do wastegates and BOVs cost so much?
09-16-2014, 07:07 PM
#41
Absolutly. Ebay EMUSA wastegates (2) and tried an ebay BOV which failed and leaked like crazy. Found a used Tial 50mm for $100 and was happy with that.
I have had mixed results with my EMUSA gates. On the one hand they seem to work. The 15 psi springs were way off. More like 24 psi out of the box. Cleaned up some of the seals and it brought it down to about 19-21 psi depending on the gear. Removed a spring and I see 12 in 1st gear and 15 in 2nd and 3rd gear.
One thing I noticed when removing it to remove springs was that the face of the valve was quite rusted. For supposed 304 stainless, this should not be happening. All the rest of my piping was made out of 304 stainless and not even a hint of rust. Just the gate valve. This worries me a tad and I am considering changing them out when I re-do my piping over the winter. But, they are in fact functioning, just not nearly as precise as a name brand unit might.
I have had mixed results with my EMUSA gates. On the one hand they seem to work. The 15 psi springs were way off. More like 24 psi out of the box. Cleaned up some of the seals and it brought it down to about 19-21 psi depending on the gear. Removed a spring and I see 12 in 1st gear and 15 in 2nd and 3rd gear.
One thing I noticed when removing it to remove springs was that the face of the valve was quite rusted. For supposed 304 stainless, this should not be happening. All the rest of my piping was made out of 304 stainless and not even a hint of rust. Just the gate valve. This worries me a tad and I am considering changing them out when I re-do my piping over the winter. But, they are in fact functioning, just not nearly as precise as a name brand unit might.
09-16-2014, 10:32 PM
#42
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Absolutly. Ebay EMUSA wastegates (2) and tried an ebay BOV which failed and leaked like crazy. Found a used Tial 50mm for $100 and was happy with that.
I have had mixed results with my EMUSA gates. On the one hand they seem to work. The 15 psi springs were way off. More like 24 psi out of the box. Cleaned up some of the seals and it brought it down to about 19-21 psi depending on the gear. Removed a spring and I see 12 in 1st gear and 15 in 2nd and 3rd gear.
One thing I noticed when removing it to remove springs was that the face of the valve was quite rusted. For supposed 304 stainless, this should not be happening. All the rest of my piping was made out of 304 stainless and not even a hint of rust. Just the gate valve. This worries me a tad and I am considering changing them out when I re-do my piping over the winter. But, they are in fact functioning, just not nearly as precise as a name brand unit might.
I have had mixed results with my EMUSA gates. On the one hand they seem to work. The 15 psi springs were way off. More like 24 psi out of the box. Cleaned up some of the seals and it brought it down to about 19-21 psi depending on the gear. Removed a spring and I see 12 in 1st gear and 15 in 2nd and 3rd gear.
One thing I noticed when removing it to remove springs was that the face of the valve was quite rusted. For supposed 304 stainless, this should not be happening. All the rest of my piping was made out of 304 stainless and not even a hint of rust. Just the gate valve. This worries me a tad and I am considering changing them out when I re-do my piping over the winter. But, they are in fact functioning, just not nearly as precise as a name brand unit might.
but thats exactly what i meant. if I were to get a bad unit i can just get another and it still way cheaper than name brand.
what bov did you use. Hks copy as very high success rate.
and as far as spring. you must test them before install. this is actually also recommended with a name brand to make sure everything is good BEFORE install. highly recommended if buying used. takes a few minutes and youll know for sure what psi it will open
as far as rusting was your head lifting?
I dont understand how you could have accumulated that much water to rust out? with my ebay wastegate(not emusa) it had exhaust sooth and dry so even if it could rust it was too dry for it to rust
again the term "ebay" doesnt give much detail on which it is.
they even have a $300 ebay gt45 that proved reliable time and time again. talk about cheap power.
09-16-2014, 10:58 PM
#43
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looking at these posts, I realized i paid just as much for a wastegate and bov in my srt.... never though of complaining on how expensive they were tho.. Didn't really think they were expensive honestly, for what they do...
09-17-2014, 08:09 AM
#44
Bov was a tial copy. I do not recall which brand. Spring was bench tested and came out to 18 psi but as you probably know or should, the bench and reality are often times quite different. As for the rust all cars will produce moisture out if the exhaust. Condensation will also accumulate. Ever seen cars with steam coming out of the tail pipe when cold out? E85 does seem to produce more water vapor in the exhaust than gas. But the byproducts of both gas and e85 are indeed co2 and water among other things. No lifted heads.
09-17-2014, 09:34 AM
#45
Going off tial 60mm. Last I looked they were $750 each.
Im not a fan of the oring/piston type gates. Ive only ran across 2 cars with them in the past and on both cars the piston was sticking. So I stick with the diapram type. Not saying the others dont work good. Just my personal preference.
Im not a fan of the oring/piston type gates. Ive only ran across 2 cars with them in the past and on both cars the piston was sticking. So I stick with the diapram type. Not saying the others dont work good. Just my personal preference.
09-17-2014, 09:42 AM
#46
I had a pair of EMUSA's here and they seemed OK. But, one piston was tighter than the other and I didnt want to deal with boost control issues that I would never be able to track down. Sold them and went with a set of Tials which appear nicely built and definitely more compact. The EMUSA's may of worked just fine who knows.
I do run a Race Parts Solutions BOV that has worked really good and seems built very nice. For 90.00 it was a good deal
I do run a Race Parts Solutions BOV that has worked really good and seems built very nice. For 90.00 it was a good deal
09-18-2014, 09:23 AM
#48
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Bov was a tial copy. I do not recall which brand. Spring was bench tested and came out to 18 psi but as you probably know or should, the bench and reality are often times quite different. As for the rust all cars will produce moisture out if the exhaust. Condensation will also accumulate. Ever seen cars with steam coming out of the tail pipe when cold out? E85 does seem to produce more water vapor in the exhaust than gas. But the byproducts of both gas and e85 are indeed co2 and water among other things. No lifted heads.
But I like to use lower spring and increase boost with quality manual boost controller like Hallman.
I didn't realize you were on e85 when I was using that my exhaust was really clean and no black sooth lol
09-18-2014, 10:13 AM
#49
I still have some soot, but much less since getting off gas. I typically try to size my spring as close to what I want to run as possible to help spool and keep it from opening sooner. Even with a manual you can hear it start to open before it hits full boost. Using a stiffer spring and just raising it a few psi with the boost controller seems to help spool faster. Just my experiences.
09-19-2014, 05:54 AM
#50
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I've been checking out a lot of you guys builds and noticed almost none of you plum you wastegates back into your down pipes, especially you guys with the single turbo builds.... Why is that? the dual turbo, front mount builds, I understand that it's just extra piping and room is a premium as it is...
09-19-2014, 07:54 AM
#52
Plumbing back in can disrupt flow in the downpipe. For a street car it would probably be fine. For all out best to dump them. As for the water cooled I have never used one, but I imagine for close quarters or a road race app where you are on the wastegate for long periods of time it might be good. Most are stainless so rust would not really be a concern.
09-19-2014, 03:49 PM
#53
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Plumbing back in can disrupt flow in the downpipe. For a street car it would probably be fine. For all out best to dump them. As for the water cooled I have never used one, but I imagine for close quarters or a road race app where you are on the wastegate for long periods of time it might be good. Most are stainless so rust would not really be a concern.
09-19-2014, 03:57 PM
#54
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I've been checking out a lot of you guys builds and noticed almost none of you plum you wastegates back into your down pipes, especially you guys with the single turbo builds.... Why is that? the dual turbo, front mount builds, I understand that it's just extra piping and room is a premium as it is...
It's easier to build the system with it venting to atmosphere. It's more awkward having to route it back to a certain location, even more so when space is limited.
Some will also prefer the sound ( and it sounds quite different inside the car than it does outside. Inside it can be bloody irritating )
But unless your exhaust system is restrictive there wont really be any performance benefit. On the other hand if the system maybe isnt as good as could be, venting to atmos will carry some of the exhaust load so the main system doesnt have to deal with it so there may be a benefit.
But if you want a quiet setup, return them back into the main exhaust
09-19-2014, 06:17 PM
#55
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Simplicity usually.
It's easier to build the system with it venting to atmosphere. It's more awkward having to route it back to a certain location, even more so when space is limited.
Some will also prefer the sound ( and it sounds quite different inside the car than it does outside. Inside it can be bloody irritating )
But unless your exhaust system is restrictive there wont really be any performance benefit. On the other hand if the system maybe isnt as good as could be, venting to atmos will carry some of the exhaust load so the main system doesnt have to deal with it so there may be a benefit.
But if you want a quiet setup, return them back into the main exhaust
It's easier to build the system with it venting to atmosphere. It's more awkward having to route it back to a certain location, even more so when space is limited.
Some will also prefer the sound ( and it sounds quite different inside the car than it does outside. Inside it can be bloody irritating )
But unless your exhaust system is restrictive there wont really be any performance benefit. On the other hand if the system maybe isnt as good as could be, venting to atmos will carry some of the exhaust load so the main system doesnt have to deal with it so there may be a benefit.
But if you want a quiet setup, return them back into the main exhaust
I'm good with the room under the hood of my 57 Chevy 3100 truck. I'm running 3" from the Turbo back....