98 Camaro build thread. L33, GT45, Tick cam..
02-18-2015, 11:18 AM
#141
The car is done. Base tune is loaded. Their is about 3" of snow here so I can't push the car out alone to start it. Going to wait on a buddy to come by later and help me with it.
Im really hoping that this thing isn't as rich as it was the first time i started it. I didn't have an IAT sensor hooked up at the time, didn't notice that my temp sensor wasn't plugged into the drivers side head and it also had the H/C tune still loaded.. You all think these issues were the original problem with it blowing clouds of gas??
Im really hoping that this thing isn't as rich as it was the first time i started it. I didn't have an IAT sensor hooked up at the time, didn't notice that my temp sensor wasn't plugged into the drivers side head and it also had the H/C tune still loaded.. You all think these issues were the original problem with it blowing clouds of gas??
02-22-2015, 09:49 PM
#142
Shoveled snow for 45 minutes so I could push car out of basement to start. Hooked up a buddies Snap On external FP gauge to rail. No changes from first start other than hooking up charge pipe with IAT sensor.
As soon as I turned key on, fuel pump just ran for like 1/2 second. As I would cycle the key, it sometimes would just barely kick on. I know it's been a while, but I remember normally with key on, it seemed like pump would prime for couple seconds? Car wouldn't start of course. For whatever reason, gauge was just showing 12-18lbs of pressure on the rail.
Where would you all start on diagnosing it? I know this car will be a blast once it's running but damn it's fighting me. Help me out here guys.
As soon as I turned key on, fuel pump just ran for like 1/2 second. As I would cycle the key, it sometimes would just barely kick on. I know it's been a while, but I remember normally with key on, it seemed like pump would prime for couple seconds? Car wouldn't start of course. For whatever reason, gauge was just showing 12-18lbs of pressure on the rail.
Where would you all start on diagnosing it? I know this car will be a blast once it's running but damn it's fighting me. Help me out here guys.
02-22-2015, 10:35 PM
#143
On The Tree
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What pump, Fuel pressure Regulator are you using? I'm tired and didn't want to re-read everything.
Did you do a bolt/nut/ground/connector check? I'm asking if anything is disconnected?
Battery charged?
To answer your other post, when I started my car for the first time after the 5.3 swap it was super rich because I didn't connect the IAT sensor. I'm pretty sure it defaults to super rich. It should be fine when you get all sensors connected.
Let me know if you get the fuel rail pressure issue figured out. I'm sure someone else will speak up with other suggestions.
Did you do a bolt/nut/ground/connector check? I'm asking if anything is disconnected?
Battery charged?
To answer your other post, when I started my car for the first time after the 5.3 swap it was super rich because I didn't connect the IAT sensor. I'm pretty sure it defaults to super rich. It should be fine when you get all sensors connected.
Let me know if you get the fuel rail pressure issue figured out. I'm sure someone else will speak up with other suggestions.
02-22-2015, 10:56 PM
#144
What pump, Fuel pressure Regulator are you using? I'm tired and didn't want to re-read everything.
Did you do a bolt/nut/ground/connector check? I'm asking if anything is disconnected?
Battery charged?
To answer your other post, when I started my car for the first time after the 5.3 swap it was super rich because I didn't connect the IAT sensor. I'm pretty sure it defaults to super rich. It should be fine when you get all sensors connected.
Let me know if you get the fuel rail pressure issue figured out. I'm sure someone else will speak up with other suggestions.
Did you do a bolt/nut/ground/connector check? I'm asking if anything is disconnected?
Battery charged?
To answer your other post, when I started my car for the first time after the 5.3 swap it was super rich because I didn't connect the IAT sensor. I'm pretty sure it defaults to super rich. It should be fine when you get all sensors connected.
Let me know if you get the fuel rail pressure issue figured out. I'm sure someone else will speak up with other suggestions.
Battery is good, showing around 150 cranking rpm. I'll look over everything again. It's good to hear that about the IAT though.
I'm wondering if the gauge is hooked up correctly. I don't see how it couldn't be though, it's not leaking. The gauge is definitely not the problems I wouldn't think.
02-23-2015, 06:21 AM
#145
One more problem I just remembered.
Belt keep jumping a rib on the balancer when rolling it over. I'm using the Huron speed alt relocation bracket. Anyone ever had problems with this? The tensioner was fine before. I swear it almost looks like the actual bracket that I bought used is a little crooked but surely not.
Belt keep jumping a rib on the balancer when rolling it over. I'm using the Huron speed alt relocation bracket. Anyone ever had problems with this? The tensioner was fine before. I swear it almost looks like the actual bracket that I bought used is a little crooked but surely not.
02-24-2015, 12:02 PM
#146
Ok, I heard that the Huron Speed relocation kits are junk. One guy said he used several and had to take a pry bar and pull them all outwards to get them to line up. No wonder they quit making them..
Pulled the fuel bucket and everything looks fine, I'm at a loss and the cars dead in the water until I get this figured out. Hopefully people are still watching this and can help.
Pulled the fuel bucket and everything looks fine, I'm at a loss and the cars dead in the water until I get this figured out. Hopefully people are still watching this and can help.
02-24-2015, 07:49 PM
#147
Not sure what tuner sw you're using. Is there a test mode that allow you to activate fuel pump relay or just jumper fp relay on. Walbro built in check valve not working? Also, check parameters in tuner sw for errant values eg. IAT will be -38F if unplugged and dump a lot of fuel as a result. HTH
02-25-2015, 05:11 AM
#148
Not sure what tuner sw you're using. Is there a test mode that allow you to activate fuel pump relay or just jumper fp relay on. Walbro built in check valve not working? Also, check parameters in tuner sw for errant values eg. IAT will be -38F if unplugged and dump a lot of fuel as a result. HTH
02-25-2015, 08:36 AM
#150
I can wire the pumps to the battery an the main one comes on. Secondary doesn't cause it's hooked to Hobbs. When I hook it up to a 12v key on from the PCM it will click on for a half second and then shuts off. About half the time it doesn't do anything. I'm thinking relay under the hood.
02-25-2015, 09:37 AM
#151
Yea, ya need to check that fp relay circuit. You could swap the relay and see if you can command the pump on. If no good, verify power to relay (usually on the 30 or 87 leg of relay). If good, jumper from relay pwr to the fp feed wire it should run. If running, confirm fp pressure at rail. If not running, check wiring to pump. Need to make sure all your fuel pump pwr wiring, connections, etc can handle 15A. Once you can manually run the pumps then time to check the relay command signal from the pcm.
02-25-2015, 11:27 AM
#152
Yea, ya need to check that fp relay circuit. You could swap the relay and see if you can command the pump on. If no good, verify power to relay (usually on the 30 or 87 leg of relay). If good, jumper from relay pwr to the fp feed wire it should run. If running, confirm fp pressure at rail. If not running, check wiring to pump. Need to make sure all your fuel pump pwr wiring, connections, etc can handle 15A. Once you can manually run the pumps then time to check the relay command signal from the pcm.
02-25-2015, 12:56 PM
#153
Yes, relays have a current (A) spec. You want to use a relay that is rated at least 20% more than max current expected. Same with switches etc. If not, they'll burn up. Relays are basically a high current switch allowing you to use low current switch to activate high current flow. Think of the old Ford starter relay on inner fender well.
02-25-2015, 04:47 PM
#154
Yes, relays have a current (A) spec. You want to use a relay that is rated at least 20% more than max current expected. Same with switches etc. If not, they'll burn up. Relays are basically a high current switch allowing you to use low current switch to activate high current flow. Think of the old Ford starter relay on inner fender well.
On a side note, I believe the relay next to the fuel pump relay is one for the ac compressor. Does anyone know if they are identical? Possibly just swap them and see if it fixes the problem?
02-26-2015, 09:24 AM
#155
Do you think me wiring the pumps like I have will draw more power? Both pumps are run through relays now that were ordered through Summit. My father in law wires them for me but I used a write up on here that's worked many times and their was nothing said about using a higher relay.
On a side note, I believe the relay next to the fuel pump relay is one for the ac compressor. Does anyone know if they are identical? Possibly just swap them and see if it fixes the problem?
On a side note, I believe the relay next to the fuel pump relay is one for the ac compressor. Does anyone know if they are identical? Possibly just swap them and see if it fixes the problem?
02-27-2015, 08:58 AM
#158
I just came here to comment on the alt relocation brackets. Mine were screwy from Huron Speed but we modded them via cutting and re-welding to be perfect.
Sorry about your fuel pump issues!
Sorry about your fuel pump issues!
