98 Camaro build thread. L33, GT45, Tick cam..
#1
98 Camaro build thread. L33, GT45, Tick cam..
Idle vid post 169
Started on this build about a week ago and I've been gathering parts for about 6 months. This will be somewhat on a budget with the GT45 and Emusa wastegate and BOV. Truly was a Denmah inspired build. Finished my heads/cam last fall and even though it runs great, I spent nearly as much making 420rwhp as I'm hoping it takes to make 6-650.
Let me start by saying I'm learning as I go. I've never fabbed anything and I just bought a welder 3 months ago. Hell, until last fall, I had never even had the heads off a car. I'm glad to say though I've done a decent job learning everything and have somewhat enjoyed the process.
Motor is completely L33 stock other than a custom spec cam from Martin. Heads will be 862s that I've done installed PRC duals on. Pro comp heads studs will be used with MLS gaskets. Bought the Griffin radiator that everyone used and plan to stand it up. Fueling (which I will need some serious help on) will be done using twin 255s and 80# Smartfire injectors. I also bought HP tuners and have learned enough to better the tune I already had on my car so when she blows with the added boost, I take full responsibility.
Hoping to pull the motor tomorrow night. I plan on reprinting the engine bay and the undercarriage while motor/tranny is out. I'm pretty particular about cleanliness. I will get more pics as progress is made but here is the car (horrible iPad pic):
The donor:
Started on this build about a week ago and I've been gathering parts for about 6 months. This will be somewhat on a budget with the GT45 and Emusa wastegate and BOV. Truly was a Denmah inspired build. Finished my heads/cam last fall and even though it runs great, I spent nearly as much making 420rwhp as I'm hoping it takes to make 6-650.
Let me start by saying I'm learning as I go. I've never fabbed anything and I just bought a welder 3 months ago. Hell, until last fall, I had never even had the heads off a car. I'm glad to say though I've done a decent job learning everything and have somewhat enjoyed the process.
Motor is completely L33 stock other than a custom spec cam from Martin. Heads will be 862s that I've done installed PRC duals on. Pro comp heads studs will be used with MLS gaskets. Bought the Griffin radiator that everyone used and plan to stand it up. Fueling (which I will need some serious help on) will be done using twin 255s and 80# Smartfire injectors. I also bought HP tuners and have learned enough to better the tune I already had on my car so when she blows with the added boost, I take full responsibility.
Hoping to pull the motor tomorrow night. I plan on reprinting the engine bay and the undercarriage while motor/tranny is out. I'm pretty particular about cleanliness. I will get more pics as progress is made but here is the car (horrible iPad pic):
The donor:
Last edited by JustAFooL; 05-14-2015 at 05:01 PM.
#6
Well the motor is out. Didn't really have any hangups other than trying to figure out how to get the motor past the cherry picker. Going to try and get it under the jacks tonight and start cleaning a bit before paint. Head gaskets and DEI exhaust wrap came in today so I hope to have everything ready to go back together by the end of the weekend. Probably a long shot though..
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#8
But yes, the l33 is the aluminum 5.3. I got to wondering about the reluctor wheel. I'm wondering if that's going to cause a problem or not?
#10
Got it all tore apart. Everything seemed to go pretty smooth. I believe that I'm going to send another converter back to TCI to let them build it instead if buying a PTC. I'm going to save swapping all the stuff over to the 5.3 and start looking at what all needs to be hacked on so I can get everything cleaned before it goes back.
As far as intercooler placement goes, How much room are most people leaving in the bumper support on the top?? (I know it has to go up more)
Also any advice on notching the radiator support would be nice. It's the same Griffin that everyone is using..
As far as intercooler placement goes, How much room are most people leaving in the bumper support on the top?? (I know it has to go up more)
Also any advice on notching the radiator support would be nice. It's the same Griffin that everyone is using..
#11
Sent the converter back to TCI this morning. Sounded like it would be about a 2 week turn around.. Finally got the intercooler mounted the way I wanted it and also got the radiator support notched for the Griffin. Also started painting on the engine bay and undercarriage. Didn't really know how that was going to work but it looks like it will turn out great once it's all said and done.
I'm hoping to have everything ready to go back together once I get the converter back. Then it will be time to fab the hot and cold side and start on the fuel system.
Here you can see what a difference the paint is going to make.. 2 coats primer and 2 paint.
If I order the BMR AC delete panel and I want to keep my heat, is it as simple as unbolting the black box, drilling holes for the upper 2 lines and putting the new panel in? I've never really looked into doing it and if it's a huge headache, it probably won't mess with it.
I'm hoping to have everything ready to go back together once I get the converter back. Then it will be time to fab the hot and cold side and start on the fuel system.
Here you can see what a difference the paint is going to make.. 2 coats primer and 2 paint.
If I order the BMR AC delete panel and I want to keep my heat, is it as simple as unbolting the black box, drilling holes for the upper 2 lines and putting the new panel in? I've never really looked into doing it and if it's a huge headache, it probably won't mess with it.
#12
On The Tree
Join Date: Jul 2005
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Delete Panel
If I order the BMR AC delete panel and I want to keep my heat, is it as simple as unbolting the black box, drilling holes for the upper 2 lines and putting the new panel in? I've never really looked into doing it and if it's a huge headache, it probably won't mess with it.[/QUOTE]
I made a delete panel last winter and I made a hole in it to keep the heat. Living in North Dakota I need the heater! I think it will be easy for you to make the hole if you have a saw/dermal that will make the cut. I got mad at the black box and just beat it out....hahaha. Your need to take out the interior to do it right. Here is a picture of the delete panel I made, maybe it will help you.
Im doing a very similar build as you. I've got a 1997 SS with a 01 5.3/4l80E/tick cam/circle d converter. I've been driving around this summer n/a and will be doing the turbo swap this winter, I would have finished last year, but I ran out of money. LS swapping and adding a turbo at the same time gets expensive. Ill be keeping an eye on your build!
I made a delete panel last winter and I made a hole in it to keep the heat. Living in North Dakota I need the heater! I think it will be easy for you to make the hole if you have a saw/dermal that will make the cut. I got mad at the black box and just beat it out....hahaha. Your need to take out the interior to do it right. Here is a picture of the delete panel I made, maybe it will help you.
Im doing a very similar build as you. I've got a 1997 SS with a 01 5.3/4l80E/tick cam/circle d converter. I've been driving around this summer n/a and will be doing the turbo swap this winter, I would have finished last year, but I ran out of money. LS swapping and adding a turbo at the same time gets expensive. Ill be keeping an eye on your build!
#14
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Here is what I did to get rid of the A/C and keep the heat with a UMI block off plate.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html
#15
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (40)
Here is what I did to get rid of the A/C and keep the heat with a UMI block off plate.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html
And on to topic.. good progress. Your tabbing up the kit yourself or you buying one?
#16
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
There is always 2 ways to skin a cat, to each their own...
I can't imagine that cutting it in the car and braking it with a hammer turned out as well as I did it. I trimmed my box 3 times to get it to fit as tight as possible to the block off plate. The seal of the heater box to the block off plate is important so you have good air flow from the blower motor. I also wanted to make sure the fire wall was sealed from the cockpit.
#17
Thanks for the advise Conan, you've been a huge help so far! As far as pulling the dash, that's not my style man..
Na, I will if I have to but that looks like a ton of work. I'm going to just try and cut it out from the bay and make a plate. I'll try and make a plate on my own and if not I'll just order one from UMI or BMR.
where did you get your vacuum block from if you don't mind me asking? I see your Hobbs is off the side of it. Where does it get it's main vacuum from and what all do you have sourced to it?
Na, I will if I have to but that looks like a ton of work. I'm going to just try and cut it out from the bay and make a plate. I'll try and make a plate on my own and if not I'll just order one from UMI or BMR.
where did you get your vacuum block from if you don't mind me asking? I see your Hobbs is off the side of it. Where does it get it's main vacuum from and what all do you have sourced to it?
#18
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Thanks for the advise Conan, you've been a huge help so far! As far as pulling the dash, that's not my style man..
Na, I will if I have to but that looks like a ton of work. I'm going to just try and cut it out from the bay and make a plate. I'll try and make a plate on my own and if not I'll just order one from UMI or BMR.
where did you get your vacuum block from if you don't mind me asking? I see your Hobbs is off the side of it. Where does it get it's main vacuum from and what all do you have sourced to it?
Na, I will if I have to but that looks like a ton of work. I'm going to just try and cut it out from the bay and make a plate. I'll try and make a plate on my own and if not I'll just order one from UMI or BMR.
where did you get your vacuum block from if you don't mind me asking? I see your Hobbs is off the side of it. Where does it get it's main vacuum from and what all do you have sourced to it?
The vacuum block is from Ebay. Just search vacuum manifold, you'll get a ton of different options to choose from.
I removed the EVAP from the intake manifold to clean up the engine bay. So I use that port on the front of the intke and the small port on the back of the intake to "feed" or pull vacuum on the block. I think 1 of those sources would be fine I just tied them together so I didn't have a bunch of stuff blocked off. This is a LS6 intake manifold by the way.
I run the Hobbs switch, Boost gauge, Bypass valve, Snow meth controller, and the HVAC all are tapped in to the vacuum manifold.
#19
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (20)
Looks like an awesome build! Just keep us in mind for any go fast parts you need or have any questions just give us a shout at support@tickperformance.com.