oscs

iTrader: (19)

Yes, it is a point of concern for sure. It will be addressed very soon, maybe by the end of next weekend.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

I've seen extensiveness wind tunnel testing done on the S30 and read A LOT of research in the way of air flow under the hood. The factory Vents are in fact a heat release. There is also a giant Vent in the "windshield wiper" panel that allows the high pressure air that builds up on the firewall to escape. I think these two features combined do a decent job of removing heat/trapped air.

We cant forget that the S30 originally came with I6 that sat much further back in the engine bay so my situation doesn't directly correlate. especially looking at the two oven ive placed right up against the radiator..

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I also agree with a properly designed cooling system a thermostat is the way to go… but adding a thermostat will not help cool the engine over a properly blocked setup like he is running. The system will flow more with no thermostat, period.

Since you’re planning on half mile runs with your setup, I’d run the biggest oil cooler you can fit. I think you’ll still need address the core/shroud/ducting to keep it cool on the extended pulls even with a big oil cooler.

40psi WOT sounds really low, even with a low weight oil. Have you split the oil filter recently? May give it a look just to make sure some bearings aren’t on their way out.

stevieturbo

Whilst not great, my WOT oil pressure is around 45psi.

I'd like more...and not really sure why it is so low.

It's an almost new build, and did use a Melling pump but it is now feeding two turbos and the piston oil squirters.
As long as it doesnt change I'll leave it as is.....but clearance with those oil squirters was pretty much non existent. I'm just waiting for them to break off and pressure drop lol

cmiller8006

iTrader: (1)

When I had my cobalt I did break the squiters off with the wiseco pistons but it did not make a change in pressure. I just got my car up and running, twin turbo c5, hot idle oil pressure is 35-40 on joe gibbs break in oil. my builder suggests using 20-50 for my clearances after break in.

stevieturbo

I clearanced my pistons so they were clearing....as to what happens a 7000rpm, is another matter.

Previous Ross or JE Pistons ( cant recall which ) I used years ago had clearance for the reluctor wheel....it still gouged some out of the piston.

But the side of the rod itself also just scrapes by the squirters....I'd say with a 4" stroke using them would be impossible.

With my 3.825" it's very risky. If it had been stock stroke I dont think there would be an issue at all. I wasnt aware of this until I was putting it all together.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Agreed. The rod bearings are ok and crank bearings are brand new. I didnt bother checking the cam bearing as the rod bearings where damn near perfect when I pulled the motor apart a few months ago. Thinking back on it, I should have pulled the cam to see. With that said the PSI I'm seeing is at 250* so I don't have a whole lot of confidence in the data untill I get the OT around 210ish and make some more passes. As far as the oil filter is concerned, no I have not cut it open yet but will do so after the VR-1 goes in and if the pressure stays low after the improvements.

The cool thing about getting the oil
Cooler setup first is I can see just how much a 40* drop in OT will effect the CT.

stevieturbo

Cooler oil will have only a very small impact on coolant temps.

I run the 86degC stat, ie 186degF

Normally my coolant temps as seen at the front left position on the cylinder head near Cyl 1 are around 192degF

I was racing at the weekend at an airfield event doing 1/4's and standing 1km runs, ambients in the 70-75degF range, generally warmish for the venue, but not overly so

I never seen coolant temps over 205degF, and my hottest oil temps were around 227degF.
That was on my best 1km run which was 193.5mph, or 182.5mph at the 1/2 mile.

Mind you, it was still only making around 43-45psi during the run, so any temperatures changes I see which are small, dont seem to make a pile of difference to my pressure.

IMO you need to get your coolant temps under better control and oil temps will follow.

An oil cooler may not be a bad thing, but I think the main crux of the heat issue lies elsewhere. Although if you cannot get water temps down, then yes cooling the oil may be the only option.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

I agree that coolant temps are defiantly my main problem. With that said, having two turbos is doing nothing to help keep my oil temps under control and having a cooler can be nothing but beneficial.

stevieturbo

I agree there arent really any downsides to fitting an oil cooler if you have hot oil temps, but the two turbos on mine dont seem to be hurting it at all. I was actually very surprised as I expected oil to get a lot hotter given the loads at the weekend.

I do have a remote mounted oil filter with perhaps 4 feet of -12 lines, which may offer a small amount of cooling...but I'm sure it is only a small amount.

I use a 10/60 fully synthetic oil. Nothing fancy or mega expensive.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Our temperature differences might have something to do with this as well. in the summer it is easily 100+ degrees with 100% humidity here (Houston) also ive never heard of anyone running 10/60. Im curious, if your temps are in check why run a synthetic oil?

stevieturbo

I can't think of a single reason not to use a good quality synthetic oil.

91 240

iTrader: (6)

Hey oscs,


it's funny i stumbled across this thread talking about this issue. I had mine out running around yesterday doing some street tuning on my new cam, heads and injectors.

Austin was right at 100* yesterday and my coolant temps were a solid 205-215* no matter what, that's with my FMIC removed to get more direct airflow to the radiator (currently working on a twin side mount setup in series).

I'm running a 160* tstat and have a Griffin dual pass radiator (24x16x3 not the biggest) and a taurus fan (JY special so i dont know how well it's really working).

I'm looking at getting a vented hood or molding one in as well as adding the stock lower radiator undertray to help draw heat from under the car. I'll be adding MORE ducting to the radiator now that i've removed the FMIC this week too, hopefully that helps.

i've been fighting cooling issues for over a year so i feel your pain.

I'm piecing together my oil cooler setup right now as well.

Have you ordered that ebay adapter you mentioned earlier? i was looking at that as well, just seeing if you had any thoughts on it.

I'll keep an eye on your results and can post mine too if i find something that magically works.

Good luck!!!

Avery

oscs

iTrader: (19)

My radiator is 22X16X3 so i would say our results will be close. I am NOT pleased that you are having issues even with the Taurus fan as i just bought a JY one myself.. If it where me, I would plug the bypass port and get rid of the thermostat all together. In the middle of the summer it is nothing more than a restriction. Are you sure you got one out of the 3.8L and not the 3.0? Do you have the high speed hooked up? Also are running the fan off of 12V or directly off the alternator (14V)? Running the fan on high at 14V puts out close to 6000CFM. The ebay oil cooler adapter piece is surprisingly good. It has a good weight to it and looks very well made for $26. I would buy one again.

91 240

iTrader: (6)

Pretty sure it was from a 3.0, as the 3.8's had dual fans IIRC. it was almost a year ago when i got mine.

I have both high and low hooked up. Low is driven by the PCM and I have high hooked up to a manual toggle switch in the cabin. if it ever gets to 220+, i kick on the high fan. my big problem is, i have low speed set to come on at 205 and off at 195, so it never shut off yesterday. I finally pulled over and updated a tune to have the fan come on at 230 so it never came on while driving. it's not right off the alt, but pretty close. Main 4ga off the alt comes into the cabin to a 80amp fuse, 4ga to dist block, 8ga to a 40amp self resetting circuit breaker, 10ga to the Volvo fan relay controller then to the fan. I've tested the voltage right off the circuit breaker and it was right around 13-13.5v, which is right about what my 105amp C5 alt is putting out.

However i think my voltage regulator is crapping out too as it'll drop voltage to 12v or so and bump right back up while driving. Alt shop said it can't be rebuilt has GM wont release the part number. going to up the alt to a 140amp unit soon though.

Good to know on the adapter, ordering one myself right now!!

EDIT....my fan was indeed from a 3.8L car. However, it's probably tired. They're $80 brand new from RockAuto.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Why not have the fan kick on way earlier? Like 185* or so. What is the drawback to having the an run constantly? Also do you have an expansion tank? Post a picture of your front end with all the body panels on. I want to see what your airflow situation is.

91 240

iTrader: (6)

I had it on at 185 and off at 175 but now it won't get any lower than 195 cruising, I hit 199 yesterday. This fan pulls a ton of juice. Last Dec I had the fan running on high nonstop for about 60 miles, which blew my 80amp lay fuse and drained my battery to

oscs

iTrader: (19)

I see nothing wrong with 200* cruising around. I'd prefer 180 on the roll but it is what it is. What AMP relay are you running to trigger it? Also what does your front end setup look like? Do you have unobstructed air flow?

oscs

iTrader: (19)

If I have more issues I'll be making a little air dam like this

91 240

iTrader: (6)

The Volvo fan relay is 30amp I believe - http://www.partsgeek.com/9g163hy-vol...ling+fan+relay

Here's an old pic of the front end with the FMIC. Only difference now is there is now a 8" gap between the inner edge of the bumper to the radiator, but otherwise unobstructed. There are gaps on both sides which is my plan to fix this week with ducting to box it in.