Converter pricing - the converter dilemma
11-21-2014, 03:58 PM
#1
Converter pricing - the converter dilemma What do you REALLY need to spend for a good "turbo" converter? For basically a play car, some strip but mostly street?
My current converter is called a "low stall" rated ~2900-3300 and it does flash stall to 3100-3200 and let's the turbo light-off nicely pretty much at any speed. But the sucker feels so mushy driving around that's its annoying. I guess the 3.27 gears and 28" tires may not allow it to couple well.
So, can I be assured after dropping $$$ that the new converter wont feel the same at part throttle? Cause if it does I'll keep what I have and try to get used to it.
My current converter is called a "low stall" rated ~2900-3300 and it does flash stall to 3100-3200 and let's the turbo light-off nicely pretty much at any speed. But the sucker feels so mushy driving around that's its annoying. I guess the 3.27 gears and 28" tires may not allow it to couple well.
So, can I be assured after dropping $$$ that the new converter wont feel the same at part throttle? Cause if it does I'll keep what I have and try to get used to it.
Last edited by 69-chvl; 11-21-2014 at 05:04 PM.
11-21-2014, 04:56 PM
#5
I own the $450 PTC With a 4000 stall. When I ordered the $1000 turbo PTC the tech said the boost converter would feel like a stock converter driving around town at part throttle.
That sounds great to me because this 4k stall is all or nothing...which is not fun at part throttle.
That sounds great to me because this 4k stall is all or nothing...which is not fun at part throttle.
11-21-2014, 05:06 PM
#6
I own the $450 PTC With a 4000 stall. When I ordered the $1000 turbo PTC the tech said the boost converter would feel like a stock converter driving around town at part throttle.
That sounds great to me because this 4k stall is all or nothing...which is not fun at part throttle.
That sounds great to me because this 4k stall is all or nothing...which is not fun at part throttle.
This is interesting...b/c I was looking at that 450.00 converter but reading junkies post concerns me.
Can a converter still feel tight around town/part throttle and still light a turbo off? Wondering if this is a happy-medium-live-with-it kinda deal.
11-21-2014, 06:09 PM
#7
Call PTC and ask them.
Every time I talk to them it blows me away how knowledgeable they are, you can tell they live and breathe this go fast thing that we are all obsessed with. LOL
Every time I talk to them it blows me away how knowledgeable they are, you can tell they live and breathe this go fast thing that we are all obsessed with. LOL
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11-22-2014, 09:43 AM
#11
samdogmx,
Can you tell us a bit about your combo (trans, gear, tire)...and does the converter feel tight off-throttle?
Anybody know what the difference is between a 450.00 and a 1000.00 converter that would make it drive better? I would assume the 1k unit is billet or something but not sure how that translates into better off-throttle performance.
Can you tell us a bit about your combo (trans, gear, tire)...and does the converter feel tight off-throttle?
Anybody know what the difference is between a 450.00 and a 1000.00 converter that would make it drive better? I would assume the 1k unit is billet or something but not sure how that translates into better off-throttle performance.
11-22-2014, 10:27 AM
#12
th400, 3.50, 28"
Unfortunately I never tried the cheaper PTC unit when I called them they suggested the $1000 cuz of the power I wanted to make.
The only other converter I tried was a FTI 8" that was built for a stock motor with spray and it was loose as hell, as I expected. Even at low boost it would flash to 6000 instantly when I rolled into it, The PTC feels much more firm cruising around at part throttle. I can feel the shifts where as the FTI I could not.
Unfortunately I never tried the cheaper PTC unit when I called them they suggested the $1000 cuz of the power I wanted to make.
The only other converter I tried was a FTI 8" that was built for a stock motor with spray and it was loose as hell, as I expected. Even at low boost it would flash to 6000 instantly when I rolled into it, The PTC feels much more firm cruising around at part throttle. I can feel the shifts where as the FTI I could not.
11-22-2014, 04:07 PM
#14
$450 PTC for 650ish whp and under. $1000 PTC or YANK for anything above seems to be the norm. The $1000 PTC unit is specifically built for your setup. You can make it as loose or tight as you want it. My 17 stator 9.5" was a tad on the loose side for a 750hp JY 5.3 build. But it built boost fast and was very streetable. Prob. perfect for a 4.8. I'd try a 16 or 15.5 stator on a 5.3.
I had mine restalled with a 14 blade stator since I plan to run a 6.0 next year. It's currently behind a 4.8 trapping 151mph and I see 1400ish rpm drop on the shift and under 4% slippage up top... it's a tight ****! Hoping it will do better on the 6.0.
I had mine restalled with a 14 blade stator since I plan to run a 6.0 next year. It's currently behind a 4.8 trapping 151mph and I see 1400ish rpm drop on the shift and under 4% slippage up top... it's a tight ****! Hoping it will do better on the 6.0.
11-22-2014, 07:08 PM
#15
$450 PTC for 650ish whp and under. $1000 PTC or YANK for anything above seems to be the norm. The $1000 PTC unit is specifically built for your setup. You can make it as loose or tight as you want it. My 17 stator 9.5" was a tad on the loose side for a 750hp JY 5.3 build. But it built boost fast and was very streetable. Prob. perfect for a 4.8. I'd try a 16 or 15.5 stator on a 5.3.
I had mine restalled with a 14 blade stator since I plan to run a 6.0 next year. It's currently behind a 4.8 trapping 151mph and I see 1400ish rpm drop on the shift and under 4% slippage up top... it's a tight ****! Hoping it will do better on the 6.0.
I had mine restalled with a 14 blade stator since I plan to run a 6.0 next year. It's currently behind a 4.8 trapping 151mph and I see 1400ish rpm drop on the shift and under 4% slippage up top... it's a tight ****! Hoping it will do better on the 6.0.
11-22-2014, 08:37 PM
#16
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What shift rpm?
650rwhp and shifting at 6k will benefit from the 9.5 where as shifting at 6500-7k, the $450 converter can work well.
The difference is the core and construction. The $450 converter is what PTC calls a 10" and is based on a GM245mm core that many of the other companies call a 9.5. It does have anti balloon plates and uses a stock type cast aluminum stator. It's reliable in a 9 second car.
The $1,000 9.5 is based on a more efficient core. The blade design is thicker so it's more durable, the stator is a hand built steel piece. It's been used behind 2400hp and will take whatever you can throw at it. The most noticeable difference driving wise and performance wise compared to the $450 10" is it will have less slip at cruise and at the track but will spool better.
Either of them drive very well. I do suggest the 9.5 for anyone who wants to max out their combo.
650rwhp and shifting at 6k will benefit from the 9.5 where as shifting at 6500-7k, the $450 converter can work well.
The difference is the core and construction. The $450 converter is what PTC calls a 10" and is based on a GM245mm core that many of the other companies call a 9.5. It does have anti balloon plates and uses a stock type cast aluminum stator. It's reliable in a 9 second car.
The $1,000 9.5 is based on a more efficient core. The blade design is thicker so it's more durable, the stator is a hand built steel piece. It's been used behind 2400hp and will take whatever you can throw at it. The most noticeable difference driving wise and performance wise compared to the $450 10" is it will have less slip at cruise and at the track but will spool better.
Either of them drive very well. I do suggest the 9.5 for anyone who wants to max out their combo.
11-22-2014, 10:09 PM
#17
What shift rpm?
650rwhp and shifting at 6k will benefit from the 9.5 where as shifting at 6500-7k, the $450 converter can work well.
The difference is the core and construction. The $450 converter is what PTC calls a 10" and is based on a GM245mm core that many of the other companies call a 9.5. It does have anti balloon plates and uses a stock type cast aluminum stator. It's reliable in a 9 second car.
The $1,000 9.5 is based on a more efficient core. The blade design is thicker so it's more durable, the stator is a hand built steel piece. It's been used behind 2400hp and will take whatever you can throw at it. The most noticeable difference driving wise and performance wise compared to the $450 10" is it will have less slip at cruise and at the track but will spool better.
Either of them drive very well. I do suggest the 9.5 for anyone who wants to max out their combo.
650rwhp and shifting at 6k will benefit from the 9.5 where as shifting at 6500-7k, the $450 converter can work well.
The difference is the core and construction. The $450 converter is what PTC calls a 10" and is based on a GM245mm core that many of the other companies call a 9.5. It does have anti balloon plates and uses a stock type cast aluminum stator. It's reliable in a 9 second car.
The $1,000 9.5 is based on a more efficient core. The blade design is thicker so it's more durable, the stator is a hand built steel piece. It's been used behind 2400hp and will take whatever you can throw at it. The most noticeable difference driving wise and performance wise compared to the $450 10" is it will have less slip at cruise and at the track but will spool better.
Either of them drive very well. I do suggest the 9.5 for anyone who wants to max out their combo.
Thanks Dusty for the explanation. I currently shift around 6-6.5k but that could change. I actually have a 245mm now.
Would the 1000.00 unit really feel noticeably better at part throttle or just a bit better? In other words, does spending 2x the price get 2x the performance (or at least a 1/3-2/3)/driveability?
11-22-2014, 10:27 PM
#18
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Thanks Dusty for the explanation. I currently shift around 6-6.5k but that could change. I actually have a 245mm now.
Would the 1000.00 unit really feel noticeably better at part throttle or just a bit better? In other words, does spending 2x the price get 2x the performance (or at least a 1/3-2/3)/driveability?
Would the 1000.00 unit really feel noticeably better at part throttle or just a bit better? In other words, does spending 2x the price get 2x the performance (or at least a 1/3-2/3)/driveability?
What usually happens when you push the 245mm cores to where they become inefficient at the track, you tighten it up to help slip and they begin to get difficult to spool. This is where the 9.5 shines. You get great spool up and better efficiency.
11-22-2014, 10:51 PM
#19
Thanks 69-chvl for bringing this up and asking the right questions, and thanks Dusty for the honest responses. Helps me out in converter selection and see price vs how they operate.
Are you able to get a 245 mm core unit and have it tightened up a tad more than what's normally off the shelf for that same $450 price? Curious for those of us that aren't out to get every tenth out of the driver street car and are making upper 600s? Also are we talking strictly 3 speed auto non lockup units or lockup 4l80e units as well?
Are you able to get a 245 mm core unit and have it tightened up a tad more than what's normally off the shelf for that same $450 price? Curious for those of us that aren't out to get every tenth out of the driver street car and are making upper 600s? Also are we talking strictly 3 speed auto non lockup units or lockup 4l80e units as well?
11-22-2014, 11:41 PM
#20
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Thanks 69-chvl for bringing this up and asking the right questions, and thanks Dusty for the honest responses. Helps me out in converter selection and see price vs how they operate.
Are you able to get a 245 mm core unit and have it tightened up a tad more than what's normally off the shelf for that same $450 price? Curious for those of us that aren't out to get every tenth out of the driver street car and are making upper 600s? Also are we talking strictly 3 speed auto non lockup units or lockup 4l80e units as well?
Are you able to get a 245 mm core unit and have it tightened up a tad more than what's normally off the shelf for that same $450 price? Curious for those of us that aren't out to get every tenth out of the driver street car and are making upper 600s? Also are we talking strictly 3 speed auto non lockup units or lockup 4l80e units as well?
These same stalls can be built for the 80e but that uses a billet kit which drives the price up to $750 for a single disc lock up. The $1k 9.5 is also now available for the 80e in a non lock piece.