SwampWS6

iTrader: (7)

3 minor questions. Any input will help. Thanks!

What converter are you guys running on your boosted applications?

Im the LT1 guy with a TH400.

I use to work with TSI (http://transmission-specialties.com/) when I managed a trans parts store. Do any of you guys use them?

What company usually gets the converter right the 1st time? Without having to pull the converter multiple times before getting it correct? Customer Service issue?

meatheadgn

iTrader: (1)

PTC on my last four builds. Two were boosted via a Turbo and two were NA.
Dusty spec'd all the converters and I could not be happier with the results as all were dead on.

Great converters with no hassle. I am sure there are others out there but with my Turbo Trans Am and with the Turbo Vega they work very well.

scottywheels

PTC Bolt Together

6togo

iTrader: (13)

FTI Will build you what you need!

willizm

iTrader: (10)

Off the shelf Yank PY3400

Monte4ever

iTrader: (2)

FTI but I had to pull mines to get it re-flashed. It was way to tight.

SwampWS6

iTrader: (7)

Thanks guys a lot. It makes it easier to narrow it down. I will call PTC next to see whats up. I talked to Troy @ FTI and he seemed very knowledgeable and spec'd out a converter with a good price. I also spoke with Dave @ Yank and he gave me the same results.

But these are the responses that I was looking for. Im not trying to have a $8-900 converter to find out that its too tight or too loose to be down 3-4 weeks and incur shipping costs ya know? A big plus for me is who gets it right the 1st time.

6togo

iTrader: (13)

When choosing a converter you have to know the exact combo your running and forward it to the builder so they can get it right the first go around. Sometimes it don't happen but most of the time these guys can get it bang on if they have the right info.

SwampWS6

iTrader: (7)

Understood. But in giving my info to different builders, I have gotten different responses on what my stall speed should be. Also just getting feedback on which company frequently gets it right the 1st time. 3+ weeks is a long time to wait in the middle of race season to get converter right. Some have to send back more than once.

6togo

iTrader: (13)

Those are all good points to stress to who ever you choose but the build will dictate what stall you need. If you call FTI talk with Greg directly he built my converter and shipped it within a few days and he will not sell you what you don't need.

SwampWS6

iTrader: (7)

Bingo! Just the type of feedback I was speaking of

turboventura

PTC behind my gen1 turbo. I called wanting there $1k 9.5 but they said I might have a hard time spooling it up here (run at bandimere and live at 8600ft) so they built me a $900 10". Drives around great, spools great and locks up way harder than my previous redneck 3500 nitrous converter.you don't feel all that good turbo torque if your converter is flashing right through it.

Streetracer09

iTrader: (1)

I am an employee of TSI. I spec out converters and transmissions all day. Here is one thing I can tell you. Turbo cars are extremely finicky more so than any other combo. They are, for the most part, unpredictable. You will have 10 people tell you that their converter man will knock it out of the park the first shot. For every 10 that say that, there are another 10 that have had the opposite results with the same company. There isn't a company out there that has a magic wand and you can not dyno a converter and guarantee it stall on the way out the door. That's why they give you a free stall adjustment on a race converter.

Since Turbo combo's are getting so popular there are more and more companies getting really familiar with them. All of the guys mentioned in this thread are good examples. Just remember going in, there is always room for error in a turbo converter. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

I'm had 700rwhp Modular Cobra with a Billet 76 on it. I changed the converter 3 times before I felt like it couldn't be improved.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I have PTC "dusty spec'd" converter. On my second re-stall and I think it needs one more adjustment to be perfect. Great guys to work with, but I agree with the above. Alot depends on personal preference as well.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

I had a TSI $450.00 245mm behind by 6.0 and I think it actually works pretty good for the price. I may hang on to it actually. I have a PTC now and I think it may need a restall. Par for the course.

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

I have the 9.5. Spot on out the door

SwampWS6

iTrader: (7)

I agree with Street Racer too. I have been quoted converters from $450 all the way to $1k from different companies. But getting it right the 1st time is important me. Especially when its an on average turnaround time of 3 weeks. Ive also heard that PTC has the best chance of getting it right the 1st time. But it could be also that so many people choose them too.

Vague question: What determines the stall range you need in a turbo application? I am asking this converter question in this section because it relates to boosted applications.

Does anyone have the skinney on the reason why?

scottywheels

My PTC bolt together with aluminium back half was $2000 and for what it is speced for its perfect.

Streetracer09

iTrader: (1)

Here is a vague answer. You want the converter to slip past the rpm range that is not making relevant power. IE: 1000 rpm's to about 3500 rpm's. At 3500 rpms the boost level may be near or at it's peak so you will want the converter to lock there. It needs to lock good and efficient because the Torque kicks in full effect and your irrelevant RPM range goes to relevant rather quickly. When I did all my Grand National converters and my Mod ford car my goal was to have the car hit full boost as fast as my foot hit the floor board. After that I wanted to feel 100% of the boost to the rear tires with no slip. That's a perfect turbo converter imo.

Streetracer09

iTrader: (1)

Just to add something to be a little more clear. My Mod Ford motor (about 300ci with a stroke) did not make a lick of power or full boost till around 4800 rpms. When all said and done I think the converter would go to 5000 on the transbrake and about 12-14 psi. After that it would leave and get to about 22 lbs.

On the street it was just plain retarded and would put the tires in smoke at about any MPH.