anyone running 3.73s ???
#6
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I m running 4.10 (what the rear had) with my m6. I m going to switch to 3.42 though. I personally think too tall is better than too short in a turbo car. Atleast a tall gear can load the turbo/motor. Auto is a little different of a story... Good luck though
#7
I had 3.70's, 4L80E, and a 26.10 tall tire on my Whipple'd car.
I could skate the car around, at will, below ~50mph. This was with a Yank SC3000 and the instant boost of a Whipple though. I felt it turned to many RPM on the highway at 75. Lots of interstate driving in my area.
Got rid of the Whipple for a turbo and swapped gears to a 3.50. My next tire is going to be a set of 28" tall units for the street.
Gears are like anything else, a compromise. Figure out what you can live with and what you cannot live without then decide.
I could skate the car around, at will, below ~50mph. This was with a Yank SC3000 and the instant boost of a Whipple though. I felt it turned to many RPM on the highway at 75. Lots of interstate driving in my area.
Got rid of the Whipple for a turbo and swapped gears to a 3.50. My next tire is going to be a set of 28" tall units for the street.
Gears are like anything else, a compromise. Figure out what you can live with and what you cannot live without then decide.
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#8
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I had 3.70's, 4L80E, and a 26.10 tall tire on my Whipple'd car.
I could skate the car around, at will, below ~50mph. This was with a Yank SC3000 and the instant boost of a Whipple though. I felt it turned to many RPM on the highway at 75. Lots of interstate driving in my area.
Got rid of the Whipple for a turbo and swapped gears to a 3.50. My next tire is going to be a set of 28" tall units for the street.
Gears are like anything else, a compromise. Figure out what you can live with and what you cannot live without then decide.
I could skate the car around, at will, below ~50mph. This was with a Yank SC3000 and the instant boost of a Whipple though. I felt it turned to many RPM on the highway at 75. Lots of interstate driving in my area.
Got rid of the Whipple for a turbo and swapped gears to a 3.50. My next tire is going to be a set of 28" tall units for the street.
Gears are like anything else, a compromise. Figure out what you can live with and what you cannot live without then decide.
#9
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Had 3.73's on a 26" tire on my car and ran out of gear going through the traps. My rev limit was around 6200rpm though and would hit about 137isjh. I since have gone with 3.54's on a 28" tire and upped my rev limit. I believe I'm good for somewhere in the neighborhood of 150-155 now
#10
#11
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Axle Ratio
(Diameter/340) X (RPM/Ratio)= MPH
Use 355 for non locked automatics.
Switch MPH and Ratio if you need the answer that way.
Never failed since I memorized it from the Direct Connection Chassis Book in about 1981. That and the Formula for CID saved my *** in high school geometry when the mean *** teacher we had wanted to know what relevance that car junk had in her class. Never forgot that one either...
B x B x Stroke x 8 (number of cylinders) x .7854 = cid
That truck with 33's is going to need some leverage to get moving. Start with 4.56 and play with your expected MPH / HP
Use 355 for non locked automatics.
Switch MPH and Ratio if you need the answer that way.
Never failed since I memorized it from the Direct Connection Chassis Book in about 1981. That and the Formula for CID saved my *** in high school geometry when the mean *** teacher we had wanted to know what relevance that car junk had in her class. Never forgot that one either...
B x B x Stroke x 8 (number of cylinders) x .7854 = cid
That truck with 33's is going to need some leverage to get moving. Start with 4.56 and play with your expected MPH / HP
#12
(Diameter/340) X (RPM/Ratio)= MPH
Use 355 for non locked automatics.
Switch MPH and Ratio if you need the answer that way.
Never failed since I memorized it from the Direct Connection Chassis Book in about 1981. That and the Formula for CID saved my *** in high school geometry when the mean *** teacher we had wanted to know what relevance that car junk had in her class. Never forgot that one either...
B x B x Stroke x 8 (number of cylinders) x .7854 = cid
That truck with 33's is going to need some leverage to get moving. Start with 4.56 and play with your expected MPH / HP
Use 355 for non locked automatics.
Switch MPH and Ratio if you need the answer that way.
Never failed since I memorized it from the Direct Connection Chassis Book in about 1981. That and the Formula for CID saved my *** in high school geometry when the mean *** teacher we had wanted to know what relevance that car junk had in her class. Never forgot that one either...
B x B x Stroke x 8 (number of cylinders) x .7854 = cid
That truck with 33's is going to need some leverage to get moving. Start with 4.56 and play with your expected MPH / HP
Building a daily driver with very little track time, maybe.
#13
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Gearing
Doing it comparing to my set up, you would be geared about like a 3.42 car with a 25.5 tire. Go from there on what you want to lean toward. I'd be surprised if you can trust a 3600# street weight on that build.
With a turbo engine and your desired purpose, I would back the gear down to 4.10 to 4.30 and put a really good lock up converter. If you put some slicks on it later, buy 32's or 31.5's not only a better gear multiplication but 33's tend to be made for ultra light stuff in the slick world. RED's, Roadsters, and tube chassis door slammers.
With a turbo engine and your desired purpose, I would back the gear down to 4.10 to 4.30 and put a really good lock up converter. If you put some slicks on it later, buy 32's or 31.5's not only a better gear multiplication but 33's tend to be made for ultra light stuff in the slick world. RED's, Roadsters, and tube chassis door slammers.
#15