ForceFed66

Hey guys,

building a turbo 5.3, Motor is on stock internals, ARP studded mains and heads, and ARP rod bolts. Running a LS6 cam and currently has 243 heads. Edelbrock Victor manifold with elbow and 90mm throttle body. I am looking to build a fun cruiser, 91 octane, not a full on race car. I have a set of 317s I can swap if that would be better.

So here the thing, I called Jose and Force inductions and he recommended a Borg Warner s366. I ordered it and now that I'm ready to finish fab, people are telling me it too small and I'm gonna lift a head because of too much back pressure.

Need help, Is this turbo going to ok or should I try to get my hand on a S400? Again, a cruiser that's got ***** when needed, lol.

Thanks in advance for the advice

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Listen to others all you want but you done spoke to Jose, that's all you needed to hear. He has probably forgotten more about turbos than most of these "other" people ever will know.

Their was another thread in here somewhere that had a s366 on a 4.8. Seemed like it done really well.

tonypaul

iTrader: (2)

as long as you got a great tune and a decent converter it will rock. Jose @ Forced Inductions would not steer you wrong....

2muchboostNY

iTrader: (8)

Yup x3 Jose knows his ****. One minor detail.....you forgot to tell us your power goals and what it will be used for. The S366 can be configured in many ways so to say an "s366" is too small is not enough. Need more specs on the specific s366 you are referring too.

ForceFed66

looking to make 550whp. Just want to me able to lay the smack down on the mustangs rolling around in my area. won't be boosting all the time, but i want it available when needed

ForceFed66

and thanks guys... All reassuring info.

Any suggestions on injector size? Running an A1000 with boost by reference regulator.

I'm leaning towards 60# @ 43 psi, but any other suggestions? Just planning on running 91 octane.

thanks

F110Mech

iTrader: (2)

run 80s, they're around the same price.

ForceFed66

with the 80# injectors, I could possibly also tune to E85 huh? Don't think I could pull of E on the 60# injectors.

F110Mech

iTrader: (2)

I dont know that i would bother if you're only looking to make 550rwhp

SM105K

iTrader: (3)

I am amused at all the ARP hardware, with a bone stock short block. You have more in hardware, then you do in the SBE.....

ForceFed66

yeah, had to replace all the hardware cuz of GMs stupid torque to yield bolts, so I figured why buy now and later, so spend a little extra then ... I figured when it blows, I won't have to spend all the money on the hardware, just swap it to the new block. next block will have forged internals and be run on more boost

SM105K

iTrader: (3)

Understandable, but for 550 I would have just ran with the stock hardware and used chinese studs. Now for a forged set up, yeah ARP all the way.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

The only true TTY "one time use" hardware are the head bolts. Per the GM FRM it even states the main and rod bolts are re-usable. Don't confuse TTA with TTY. Installing ARP hardware on the factory rods is not a good practice in general. There is a chance you can EGG the rod ends. Many do it with success, some aren't so lucky. An ARP tech will tell you the same thing. Factory hardware will far exceed your power goals and will easily support 900+crank HP.

ForceFed66

yeah but even the stock replacement bolts add up. So i figured, one time purchase is better

ForceFed66

oh well, what's done is done... now I know.

Just gonna cross my fingers and hope for the best. I have a LQ4 short block I can throw in there is the 5.3 gives, lol.

Thanks for the help

SM105K

iTrader: (3)

Just remember this. Stock rod - stock bolt.

turboventura

For 550whp there's a ton of turbos that will work, s366 will be fine at those power levels.

ForceFed66

Perfect... just what i wanted to hear

thanks for getting back on topic, lol

LS1TTOPTransAm

Great info!! With the head bolts being TTY, would it be a good idea to go ahead with APR bolts/studs? or should the stock components with stock hardware statement be followed?

I would assumed for boosted applications ARP would be the way to go on the cylinder heads correct?

ForceFed66

when it comes to head bolts, Going with ARP is your best bet. They reusable unlike stock ones. If you buy studs, make sure you install them correctly or it can lead to future problems. I run head studs on all my motors. Flat surface to flat, good hardware isn't going to hurt. When a bearing is involved, that changes things.