UPDATED 6/18: Huron Speed T6 kit car. PICS
#63
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Here's a tip, they'll tell you to cake the clearcoat on thick, but on my white car, in some spots it pooled a little and gave off a yellow/eggshell tint. So I scotchbrited down a bit.. And am reapplying one more white coat to brighten it then going to clear with one coat. Really don't need much clear.. Two light coats is what I recommend.
#64
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Get on Amazon (if you have an account) its pretty cheap there. Probably 6-8 cans depending on how generous you are with paint for the entire engine bay. and 4-5 cans of clear. You'll nickel and dime yourself buying it can by can at the parts store.. Plus its about 35% cheaper thru amazon or find a case online elsewhere.
Here's a tip, they'll tell you to cake the clearcoat on thick, but on my white car, in some spots it pooled a little and gave off a yellow/eggshell tint. So I scotchbrited down a bit.. And am reapplying one more white coat to brighten it then going to clear with one coat. Really don't need much clear.. Two light coats is what I recommend.
Here's a tip, they'll tell you to cake the clearcoat on thick, but on my white car, in some spots it pooled a little and gave off a yellow/eggshell tint. So I scotchbrited down a bit.. And am reapplying one more white coat to brighten it then going to clear with one coat. Really don't need much clear.. Two light coats is what I recommend.
#66
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Sorry I've been out of touch on this.. Ya know how life goes. lol. THE GOOD NEWS IS, I bought my first house (i'm 28) last week, and close end of this month. I'll post pics in a minute of it.. Pretty cool spot. Gluckstadt MS, which is a nicer suburb of Jackson, just on the other side of Madison MS.
THE BAD NEWS is.. The clear coat came out so "yellowed" I scotchbrighted it all back down and completely re-did it. Made me sick, to have to do it.. Ended up with about 40 hours in just the engine bay. But it looks way better now..
THE BAD NEWS is.. The clear coat came out so "yellowed" I scotchbrighted it all back down and completely re-did it. Made me sick, to have to do it.. Ended up with about 40 hours in just the engine bay. But it looks way better now..
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Yea i've read nothing but good things. Just ready to have a running car.. Still need injectors, and fuel assembly for the tank.. Considering the Squash dual pump setup. Alrady got lines and FPR from FORE, and rails and all that.. Also gotta figure out all this vaccuum stuff. I'm new to the turbo stuff and I know you gotta have a vaccuum block and all that which is a bit beyond me.
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Yea i've read nothing but good things. Just ready to have a running car.. Still need injectors, and fuel assembly for the tank.. Considering the Squash dual pump setup. Alrady got lines and FPR from FORE, and rails and all that.. Also gotta figure out all this vaccuum stuff. I'm new to the turbo stuff and I know you gotta have a vaccuum block and all that which is a bit beyond me.
#71
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You don't necessarily have to have a vacuum block. It just makes things cleaner. Look at the stickies for the forced induction section, and there is a thread that covers gauge wiring and boost/vacuum source information. Looks like a clean setup. I can't wait to get my AC T4 kit in and get it running! I also got the Viking coilovers, so I'm pretty excited about the ride quality of those over my worn out stock DeCarbons. Good luck with the rest of your build!
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Just scotchbrighted the engine bay, but didnt have to much.. Then Duplicolor Arctic White, about three to four coats I did.. Then I laid clear on really heavy which came out looking like ****.. So I hat to sand it down a bit, repaint, then recolor with lighter multiple coats. It will yellow really bad if you cake it on like I did the first time. Its no easy task..
#79
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Jon
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Featuring 6 different turbo kits for your F-body!
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Featuring 6 different turbo kits for your F-body!
Check us out on Facebook at: www.facebook.com/HuronSpeed