jtotheizzo

Well since it is up and running now I suppose it is time to post a build thread. I hate it when a thread dies before the car is going.

Here it is no foreplay or anything:

The Car:





Stripped down:





Interior sanded painted and new simple door panels:



Mustang rear end installed:



Under hood painted:



Engine mocked up:


Fuel system installation:





Fbody Radiator and fans:




Turbo manifold design and build:























and the only vid I have of it driving so far:

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Nice work! Response seems pretty good from the video.

jtotheizzo

Thanks it is fairly responsive my MBC just arrived today so I am hoping that will make the boost com in a bit lower. I dont have any data of runs from a dig yet so I am actually not sure where it comes in at all but from a roll I can tell you I dont hit peak boost until around 5500 RPM.

For those who want more details on the car.

Engine:
JY 5.3 with 150k completely stock. TTY bolts, paper gaskets, and 80 lb injectors. I pulled it out of a junkyard, painted it and dropped it in.

Trans:
TH400 off craigslist. Guy I got it from said it was built for drag racing but didnt have much detail. We will see how it holds up. 1800 or so stall a car club member gave me.

Rear: Mustang 8.8 with disc brakes and 3.27 gears from craigslist. Rebuilt with carbon clutches.

krazy4

iTrader: (5)

Awesome! What all was involved in getting the 8.8 in there?

jtotheizzo

Diff went in super easy. Just got some swap upper control arms and use the factory lowers. I plan on getting some tubular lowers soon. So far I don't seem to be having the wheel hop issues that some others have had but if I start having issues I will just order the kit.

The pictures above are from when I first installed the rear I had the factory cutlass springs just sitting on top of the axle. You can buy spring buckets to weld on there or build some but mine has a set of coilovers on it now.

jtotheizzo

Finally got it to the track. Nothing terribly exciting I am running the wrong converter for sure. I couldn't build any boost on the line and launched at 1400 RPM. But considering I have turned a lot of bolts on the suspension I am glad it went straight.


12.8 @114 on this run.

Peaked at 11 PSIG when I hit third but was 9 most of the run at about 8* timing.

I will be back with a 3500 stall soon.

And yes I did win that race.... since everyone asks.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Looks like a really well laid out setup! What are you using for engine management MS3? Can you overlay your timing on the video as well?

I get that you’re on pump gas and taking it easy, but it sounds like your way too low timing wise IMO. Do you have a 2-step input for timing control? What kind of timing are you running when trying to build boost on the foot brake?

As soon as you start to make decent power, your converter is going to stall much higher. Giving up a tight converter usually isn’t necessary. If your timing is excessively low then it’s not going to build boost well initially. You want your timing at peak NA levels while building boost initially. (around 28* on stock LS stuff) Then taper timing down in big chunks once the turbo “lights off” and starts building decent boost (4-5psi). No reason you shouldn’t’ be around 18* at 5lbs, 15* by 9. I’m a firm believer in low timing with pump gas, but you are excessively low for the amount of boost your running IMO.

In your video you can see your turbo staging technique needs some work. There’s 1 second or less from the time you got WOT till the time the car starts moving. If you pull up to the first staging light holding the brake tightly and flooring the car it will build heat and boost. Do that for a 2-3+ seconds then tap the brake to hit the second staging light while holding WOT the entire time. By the time the third amber drops you’ll have a lot more heat in the exhaust and be able to make boost more easily. With better staging technique and optimized timing you might be able to light off that Gt45 with your current converter.

For comparison I use the MS3 2-step input trigger to bring my timing up to 30* on the starting line. I’ve made 24+lbs on the line this way. As long as there is no load on the engine (car stationary) additional timing isn’t going to hurt the engine. Once your boost is built and the 2-step is released timing drops back down to my map values.

Good example with overlays. They run like 40* of advance to get the turbo to light off initially, and pull it all back out once the car leaves. Also note how lean they run it when building boost initially.

jtotheizzo

I certainly appreciate the input.

I am using a factory ECU and tuning with HP tuners.

I wasn't actually trying to take it as easy as I did. I was commanding 15* up top but this was the first time it has been that hot out and I did not adjust the factory IAT compensation. When I hit 104* IAT it yanked a bunch of timing. I have since changed it to start pulling 3* at 122* IAT. (hope that is not too hot.)

I am not running a 2 step as of yet I was considering ordering one(MSD 8733) today in fact. Not for timing control but to be able to hold the car WOT. Right now there is no way I would be able to hold it with the foot brake.

I have already ordered a converter (going 3500 stall) but it wasn't just for the sake of running a looser unit. I was afraid the stock converter I am running now wont take the power I am throwing at it so I wanted to get one in with anti balloon plates and all that goodness.

Here is a vid with timing overlay.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Gotcha, looks pretty good till the end. I was thinking you commanded 9* for the whole run. Brakes not holding the power back is the big issue then. We put a electric VAC assist (heavy duty 12v air pump) on my brake accumulator and extended the pedal for more leverage. Made a huge difference on the 4 cyl automatics we ran. (30lb launches on the foot brake).

Put some more fuel to that sucker and it will fly!

Good luck!

Kansas Bu Wagon

Looks good. What motor mounts did you use?

jtotheizzo

I used the transdapt S10 LS swap mounts (4516) on the engine and Moroso solid mounts(62630) on the chassis.

m8w6r77

33lb injectors? I would get at least a 60lb injector in there.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Go with 80’s, they cost the same as 60’s. Best priced name brand High Impedance Inj. I’ve found are the Deka 80’s on Ebay @ $324 shipped. Some of the china stuff is cheaper but I’ve had problems with them…a few times.

jtotheizzo

I realized last night that i hadn't updated this. I went to about 7 PSIG on the 33's and was pushing a little over 100% duty cycle.

I swapped to the Deka 80's a couple months ago. I am however still running a single Walbro 255 (actually GSL392). Adding a second is on my list but as of right now I don't seem to be out of pump yet.

WSLN 6

iTrader: (3)

I ran a single Walbro plus meth injection to 133mph in the quarter, so you have a bit of room yet.

schaef_12

Little off topic, but where are you pulling your boost reference for the wastegate from? I see you have left the PCV system intact, any issues with that? I was going to pull my boost reference from the PCV port on the top of the intake and just vent the valve covers.

jtotheizzo

Not off topic at all I definitely welcome questions and hope I can give back to the community.

I get my boost reference for the wastegate off of the pre intercooler cold side piping. My theory was that I would rather have more control over the wastegate with the higher boost pressure from before the intercooler. I reference my gauge and tune at the intake so I didn't see it really mattering where I reference the wastegate at since I will just twist the MBC until I see what I want to on the gauge.


Funny story about the PCV system (I havent updated the pics). I did end up having an issue with the way it was setup. At some point my dad (who I am building this car with) swapped the stock check valve PCV with the new fixed orifice style. I got into boost and of course pressurized the crank case, blew the dipstick tube out and a ton of oil along with it. (yay cleanup on aisle 2). At the same time I realized I did not block off the fresh air fitting on the throttle body to the valve cover also contributing to the problem.

I wanted to keep the PCV system functional for the part throttle benefits considering my car is at part throttle 98% of the time on the street. So now I have a breather on the oil cap, I have capped the fresh air fitting at both the valve cover and throttle body and I am running a catch can with a checkvalve inline on the PCV side. I can get pictures if you like but it is setup like this drawing.

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I get a little oil smell from the breather but no spray. I have a plan to run a breather can setup on the clean side someday but so far it is working fine.

schaef_12

I appreciate the info! You did a nice job packaging everything together. I don't quite have mine running yet, but i have been thinking about what to do with the PCV and fresh ports. I think I'll do something similar to the way you set yours up.

I have my brake booster setup the same way, with the factory line hooked up to it. Any issues when the booster is pressurized under boost?

It's hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like you have the coolant port on the bottom of the throttle body hooked up? Did you drill and tap the water pump or return the coolant somewhere else?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Brake booster should have a check valve inline that prevents boost from getting to it. If you have the car apart and are building the exhaust system, the exhaust evac systems are much better. They allow a vac on the crank case while your in boost and you aren't sucking oil mist/garbage in the intake ever.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...FVc2aQod6gEARg

jtotheizzo

To echo what Forcefed said I have no issues with the brake booster. The check valve works fine, and when I let off the throttle vacuum builds fast enough I dont even notice it.

For the Steam port\throttlebody coolant line, I am running an LS Fbody radiator so I have it hooked to the port on the radiator for that. The line runs on the bottom side of the upper radiator hose.

As for the pan evac I had intended to do one but after researching it a bunch it just didn't seam to be a fit for my life right now. I was told by some local guys that I would not be able to get lines big enough to handle the blowby under high boost. This was quick and easy but maybe on my next build. I think the theory behind it sounds interesting.

**Edit*** after looking at the link one would think 2 X 5/8 hose would work fine.